The Official Work Pictures Thread

Jed, Sgriff, yep open facecut about 120° open.Plus a little more hinge thickness then normal, be careful as you gotta ride the back cut with the saw as the tree starts to go over to avoid barber chair.
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I prefer same technique for keeping it on the stump except much deeper notch eliminates barber chair concern and allows for tipping sooner/easier.
 
I prefer same technique for keeping it on the stump except much deeper notch eliminates barber chair concern and allows for tipping sooner/easier.

Same here, I've been using that cut for years to save gardens, edges and driveways. Thought I invented it actually until someone here started a thread about it years ago. Cobleskill thread as I remember, got lost in the changeover.
 
HO contacted me a few years ago, priced out the job, well the price was too high. He shopped around, found I had a good price, but it was still high, he tried to drop a few limbs himself, I think someone got hurt. He called me back. I couldn't get my head into the job today, HO was too rammy and anxious to get it down. He said he wasn't concerned about any damages, to his house, fence, neighbours house, etc etc. Couldn't wrap my head around it, trying to figure out his angle and why.

IMG_20160521_133204.jpg

Managed to drop a few limbs like this to save the trip at least. He's now agreeable to a much more controlled take down. Neighbours came out and were glad I was there (or anyone else that wasn't the HO for that matter).

IMG_20160521_124507.jpg
 
I love what you're saying Willard, and especially the science/experience/explanation of it.
I think in simpler terms not because I simplify things as some sort of great quality of mine, but because I rarely have broken anything down into a scientific plan.
My experience is, if the cuts don't meet up before the tree hits the ground and there is nothing in the canopy to twist it on impact then it will stay on the stump regardless of fibers attached or not. A trade off is, if the wood is super brittle then the fibers may break even if the cuts don't meet up but if the notch is deep, there is more surface area for the log to sit there. The disadvantage being that I wouldn't be able to cut firewood pieces off the log from the top back while the stump held it in the air. I love doing that and the shallower notch with cuts that meet up a short bit before impact make that a sweet cleanup scenario cutting up off the ground 👍🏽.
I usually go deeper with notches just because it's easier to tip the tree. Falling a hard leaning tree towards it's lay is usually when I break out the shallow notch LOL.

(Have loads of back cut first cutting btw ; )
 
Oh Tapatalk view didn't show Benns comments on my phone for some reason … Disregard back cut first comment on the end of my post there. Didn't see the joshing on tapatalk view.
 
Some pics of a solo job from last week. 12 trees on a banking above the house were to be removed, 8 to fell & 4 to climb. All timber was to be logged & the homeowner will shift the brash himself. They were somewhere between 70 & 90ft & the biggest was 20in dbh.
the worst two trees were @ the top of the banking & leaned back & out over the house. They had to be pulled & I also guyed then at the butt to prevent any potential bounce towards the building. I even included a couple of stump pics for Jed.
it was a stunning place to work - I love living here in the North Yorkshire National park:)
I think he should have built a bigger log store personally :/: IMG_1952(1).jpg IMG_1957.jpg IMG_1955.jpg View attachment 70375
 

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