The Official Work Pictures Thread

Yesterday
2c0fb292ebef25bb5fdbbaf6f7a7e815.jpg


Today. One tank in the 200t. Came up one block too tall.
410074db9f0a35fc1342b2723aea6158.jpg


1c7e9bd54adc1322c98f0e9a0a50ceb9.jpg
040f7d3f73e6845e0468224654cc768f.jpg
89fe1d06dbd48343155df9aa75a93c83.jpg
79e275de03d0b4c27ac518841d338db2.jpg
 
Overgrown the space, roof damage. Solar install. Very progressive couple (2 women, raising a niece). Backyard will become a huge veggie garden and nut orchard. They just traded in their car for a Nissan Leaf.
 
She tells me that the Return on Investment is projected at 6 years, with current tax rebates and incentives.

About 30K.

One neighbor has a sickly doug-fir.

The other neighbor wants to remove one big fir to start on his own bill. The last of the three current trees is just over the line into his yard. The ladies are paying, we're accessing through his yard.

If these two trees go, the sky will be full sun until 3pm or so.

The neighbor has had roof damage in the past and wants more to go, over time. This will increase the solar capture.
 
Here's a felling job we did last week for a logging company:

<iframe width="853" height="480" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/6JNf5FbeWkI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
There is a far amount of timber value in some of those, but they're not mine to harvest, although I didn't ask. Also it's 22 miles to the mill, which doesn't help.
 
Sean, looks like more work will come from that job, that's great. Tall trees near houses can make people awful nervous.
 
Nice vid, Carl, and quick work. I had one job where a fairly large excavator was real helpful in pushing over a lot of tall trees with back lean, and with a good confidence that developed it worked real well. Your guy with the saw when you were pushing, his back cuts in relation to the face seemed to vary, from lower to higher. I know you have the power, but pretty low pushing on some springy tall ones. Do you have a philosophy about those cuts? My conclusion is that higher back cuts are better when pushing against back lean, and obviously you know your stuff. I was just wondering about thoughts that you might have about it.
 
My philosophy is that he's sloppy. :lol: Pine is an awesome tree to fell, one of the best. My theory is the height of the back cut in relation to the apex of the notch doesn't matter all that much in strong hinging wood, like pine. It does look rather sporadic and not in good form.


Higher cuts leave a ledge that can allegedly keep the tree from getting pushed over the back of the stump when dropping through obstacles. By the same rationale, making the back cut lower could produce a ledge to keep the butt of the tree from kicking forward when pushing low.
 
My philosophy is that he's sloppy. :lol: Pine is an awesome tree to fell, one of the best. My theory is the height of the back cut in relation to the apex of the notch doesn't matter all that much in strong hinging wood, like pine. It does look rather sporadic and not in good form.


Higher cuts leave a ledge that can allegedly keep the tree from getting pushed over the back of the stump when dropping through obstacles. By the same rationale, making the back cut lower could produce a ledge to keep the butt of the tree from kicking forward when pushing low.

I think that latter concept is possibly explained in FOGT, for hard pull trees, to help from shearing the hinge off the stump. Jerry, ring a bell?
 
making the back cut lower could produce a ledge to keep the butt of the tree from kicking forward when pushing low.

that concept is explained in FOGT, for hard pull trees, to help from shearing the hinge off the stump.

That's where I learned it, FOGT.:thumb up:

Edit- I think it is most important with a hard, relatively low push from a machine, a high pull would make normal or zero stump shot fine, I would think.
 
Even if it's just a feel good, I think I would prefer the back cut to be under rather than above the apex of the notch when pushing the tree with a machine.


The excavator sure made that job easier vs setting ropes or using wedges. ~3.5 hours start to finish.
 
I have a hard time picturing a pull tree with a line attached up high, shearing off a hinge, unless in trying to get the tree leaning to where you want it to, the hinge is cut up very fine. It seems like the much more natural tendency of relatively straight grain is for the fibers to bend, not to shear off. Maybe pulling with a D8 cat or something against a lot of resistance? Anyone ever seen it happen, excluding a rotten tree?
 
If it were back leaning far enough, it's plausible it could shear forward off the stump... however that would take a heck of a rope and pulling point.
 
Yes. Heavy pulls with loaders and big backleaners and root rot and sandy soils...Shit shears.

Great pictures everybody.

Jay, great little wagon, so cool.

Sean, I'm impressed with what you do, especially by yourself at times.
Sunlight up there is like .....gold.
 
Back
Top