The Official Work Pictures Thread
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SeanKroll
Treehouser
haha
SeanKroll
Treehouser
We had rain and dry patches. Needed some plywood down at the stump area (aka the stream channel from the neighbor's roof drains daylighting, that started and stopped running with each shower). Rotten, broken willow. Thin layer of river rock on hard, glacial outwash. Didn't want to screw it up, or continuously get river rock in my tracks.
Down the hill, where I barely dragged the stump, i got a 2"+ cobble from native soil jammed in that might have broken something if I pushed on, rather than stop, clean, inspect, and remove it. Woulda been a terrible place to break a track.
#TheOgreDontCare
Stumps ripped out mostly, and hidden in the greenbelt with the logs. Carried the limbs, up to about 30' long right up the side of the house, trimming a bit along the house side on a couple loads. Mini fed most into the chipper. The CnD likes hardwood. Bushy fir can bog it down if I let it. Turned the chipper up to '10' for the first time in a while. Need to keep the speed up for long limbs, particularly in bunches.
Being able to chip at variable speeds saves me a lot of gas.
Down the hill, where I barely dragged the stump, i got a 2"+ cobble from native soil jammed in that might have broken something if I pushed on, rather than stop, clean, inspect, and remove it. Woulda been a terrible place to break a track.
#TheOgreDontCare
Stumps ripped out mostly, and hidden in the greenbelt with the logs. Carried the limbs, up to about 30' long right up the side of the house, trimming a bit along the house side on a couple loads. Mini fed most into the chipper. The CnD likes hardwood. Bushy fir can bog it down if I let it. Turned the chipper up to '10' for the first time in a while. Need to keep the speed up for long limbs, particularly in bunches.
Being able to chip at variable speeds saves me a lot of gas.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Good work on that narrow access.
Ill often tarp under the road like that to help with clean up. Keeps all the crap out of the rocks.
Speeds up the clean up. But I deal with more dead stuff that makes a horrible mess. Still......
You plan your way out and over lap the tarps in such a way, you keep moving the mess toward the truck. First dumping off the plywood, then rolling tarps back. A lot of set up, but saves time on the tail end.
Ill often tarp under the road like that to help with clean up. Keeps all the crap out of the rocks.
Speeds up the clean up. But I deal with more dead stuff that makes a horrible mess. Still......
You plan your way out and over lap the tarps in such a way, you keep moving the mess toward the truck. First dumping off the plywood, then rolling tarps back. A lot of set up, but saves time on the tail end.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
I love tarping for high quality clean-up over fighting for pretty good clean-up. That's a good idea. River rock is hard to make look clean after dirtying it, like black-rock/ basalt gravel driveways that we have around here. We have a lot of gravel roads down to the final concrete or asphalt immediately at waterfront homes (higher dollar). Keeping it clean next to the house is helpful in getting/ keeping those higher maintenance customers. I've never gotten customers who say "no need for bid, just bill me" without having already done thorough work for them.
I could do without all that detail work, but I deposit the checks, they write them.
I could do without all that detail work, but I deposit the checks, they write them.
Mick!
TreeHouser
You mentioned before about your desire for ‘no quote’ clients, I can’t understand why that’s such a draw for you.
I have to say I don’t really want that sort of thing, even established clients get a price before work, then we both know where we are.
Any grumbles I can justify/explain before the job starts.
I have to say I don’t really want that sort of thing, even established clients get a price before work, then we both know where we are.
Any grumbles I can justify/explain before the job starts.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
You have some truth there.
Feedback is useful.
I'm always learning more about tree work, running a biz, and life.
Feedback is useful.
I'm always learning more about tree work, running a biz, and life.
Mick!
TreeHouser
Show me someone who isn’t!
SkwerI
Treehouser
I love my 'no quote' clients but that level of trust has been earned on both sides. They always get my absolute best prices, typically just covering my costs and minimal dollars for my time. But the referrals they send me are awesome!
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Helpful input.
Would you bolt it as well as cable it?
Are my concerns about creating a hard point unfounded?
This was the emergency,' hold it up with what we have', job. I came back the next day and reduced the weight and put three static cobra cables in it.
The split is 4cm wide at the top, been there for a long time, the interior is all weathered gray and there are aerial roots at the top.
Are my concerns about creating a hard point unfounded?
This was the emergency,' hold it up with what we have', job. I came back the next day and reduced the weight and put three static cobra cables in it.
The split is 4cm wide at the top, been there for a long time, the interior is all weathered gray and there are aerial roots at the top.
Attachments
Mick!
TreeHouser
I respect your business Brian, but what if your ‘no quote’ clients tell the referrals what you’re charging them?
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Absolutely, multiple bolts and a steel cable, IMO. Have you seen the ISA BMP?
Move the table, farther, too, perhaps. Hard to tell the size and distance.
Move the table, farther, too, perhaps. Hard to tell the size and distance.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
What do you mean "creating a hard-point"? A fulcrum point?
SkwerI
Treehouser
Fi, that tree is far beyond any Cobra soft cable. They are not designed or intended for trees that have already failed. I believe they are more designed to make people feel better than to actually hold up a compromised tree.
I would use at least one, possibly 2 hard cables with the eye bolts drilled all the way through (not just J lags). TreeStuff has the eye bolts up to 18" long and I've bought 24" bolts before.
If you have the ability to drill it then a long bolt through both trunks at the bottom of the V would help stabilize the crack as well. Allthread with large, thick washers and lock washers under the nuts.
I would use at least one, possibly 2 hard cables with the eye bolts drilled all the way through (not just J lags). TreeStuff has the eye bolts up to 18" long and I've bought 24" bolts before.
If you have the ability to drill it then a long bolt through both trunks at the bottom of the V would help stabilize the crack as well. Allthread with large, thick washers and lock washers under the nuts.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #23,417
They don't, but so what? No job is exactly the same. X amount for Joe's pecan TD ain't gonna be the same as Marys, no matter wut.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Love mine as well....
Mick, IF the subject ever comes up.... One of my explanations is pretty simple. They are a repeat over the years client. Usually monthly. My costs are watered down in that I don't need to keep going out, estimating the job, I can easily reschedule them like flowing water and I have a set budget I adhere to on a cycle that I make work in my hourly rates based on equipment needed, which can also vary. I just schedule the job, show up and get it done. Often planning the next visit prior to leaving.
Sean, one of the best ways to make those clients is look at a job with the client budgeting it out. Like, hey he has 20 trees, I have a busy schedule. How about I come visit a couple days a month Mr. Smith at this figure per x-hours per day.
Old rule, try to keep clients like that scheduled to 10 percent or less of your work... Over a few years, you will be surprised how many days are filled out with just a return visit that did not take a bunch of thinking and running around.
These folks refer tons of work to me.
Just got a tip in the mail from one for Christmas. Couple of clams. Probably 2k in referral work as well in the last 6 months.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #23,419
I've had many customers who always accepted whatever I charged them. They knew I wasn't gonna rip them off but they also knew I had bills to pay.
Thanks Brian, actually the Cobra can be installed in a static configuration for cracked trees, no shock absorber and double up size. So that tree would normally be a 2tonne, you use 4 tonne which I have.
Hard point...if I bolt it, it won't move through the base any more, which it has been doing up til now, stress will be redistributed...I guess not really a factor as it's toast otherwise!
But yes, it needs more, will be bolting it soon.
Thanks for the input gents
Hard point...if I bolt it, it won't move through the base any more, which it has been doing up til now, stress will be redistributed...I guess not really a factor as it's toast otherwise!
But yes, it needs more, will be bolting it soon.
Thanks for the input gents
SeanKroll
Treehouser
I'd say hard-steel cable, with a wire-termination. Static cobra is still circling the stem.
I can send you some pics from the ISA BMP, if it's helpful.
I have to check in with an old send-a-bill customer. I bet his health has deteriorated, along with a big cedar. I heard he has different care-givers than before. Besides being professionally successful, the family and family estate ends with him. The estate gets about $50,000 quarterly for upkeep from a trust. Those are the repeat customers with lots of trees who want quality service, who I want. Knowing the trees is nice. Fitting them in flexibly is nice. Knowing payment is never a worry is nice, though I never really worry about that, anyway.
I can send you some pics from the ISA BMP, if it's helpful.
I have to check in with an old send-a-bill customer. I bet his health has deteriorated, along with a big cedar. I heard he has different care-givers than before. Besides being professionally successful, the family and family estate ends with him. The estate gets about $50,000 quarterly for upkeep from a trust. Those are the repeat customers with lots of trees who want quality service, who I want. Knowing the trees is nice. Fitting them in flexibly is nice. Knowing payment is never a worry is nice, though I never really worry about that, anyway.
Ok pics would be good.
I agree with the circling the stem, right now it's about half the circumference, with spreader and chafe guard making the band quite wide, but it's tight so it probably wouldn't take long to cause some issues.
The only problem I see is any cable will have to be fairly low, the branches get thin pretty quickly on the side that would have to support the weight
I agree with the circling the stem, right now it's about half the circumference, with spreader and chafe guard making the band quite wide, but it's tight so it probably wouldn't take long to cause some issues.
The only problem I see is any cable will have to be fairly low, the branches get thin pretty quickly on the side that would have to support the weight
SkwerI
Treehouser
Fi, I think the cable should be fairly low. The idea is to stabilize the crack, not to make the whole tree rigid. Going back to your first pic I'm guessing two cables. See the Y in the main trunk on the right? My inclination would be running cables from each side of the Y and both of them going over to the trunk on the left relatively horizontal. I would consider using two eye bolts on the trunk on the left or possibly cheating with a single eye bolt, making a V with the cables. This will stabilize the left trunk in two different planes in relation to the trunk on the right. And the cables will be short so you're not using a ton of materials and they won't be particularly visible afterward.
I'm a big fan of allowing the upper limbs to continue flexing and doing their thing unrestrained.
I'm a big fan of allowing the upper limbs to continue flexing and doing their thing unrestrained.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Higher cables make for more favorable leverage. Any decay up top? Might use a central hub. I did a 6-way to a central ring system, in a big Japanese maple that had already suffered from a number of tear-outs at included-bark forks.
Brian, why do you say low, versus what I thought was somewhat industry consensus, high, perhaps 2/3 from crotch to tips? The rods should stabilize the crack.
Brian, why do you say low, versus what I thought was somewhat industry consensus, high, perhaps 2/3 from crotch to tips? The rods should stabilize the crack.
