pantheraba
More biners!!!
Good tools to work with...just practice more. Confidence comes from developed skills.
The Official Work Pictures Thread
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Getting up and down from a crouch is what really hung me up on the limb. Getting out there wasn't too bad staying upright. I definitely need more time in-tree. This was the first time I ventured from the trunk. That's a whole new world without a big wooden stalk to hold on to.
It was about 20' from ground, and maybe 10' over my highest foot position. It was going through the main crotch you can /just/ make out in my first pic. Look at the highest cut, then follow the stem up. Getting higher from the ground would have been a challenge due to the density of the branches. I could have climbed a bit higher, then forwarded another line, but I was getting hung up on how I'd retrieve the end after throwing. That was when I bailed, and said "good enough".
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Here's the tree before I cut it. It was a tangle of dead limbs...
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Here's the tree before I cut it. It was a tangle of dead limbs...
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treebilly
Student of the Jedi. OH-7106A
Two white pines and a red oak today. The hemlocks faired very well for taking these out amongst them. Had another climber on the job so I got a break. Sent him up the furthest pine while I did the other one from the bucket. He wanted to do the red oak top but I convinced him the 3/4” bull rope could handle the big too I could take out of the bucket. Made for a nice load of logs by the end of the day
@lxskllr, i think part of the problem is what you think is a high tie in point (tip) isn't. When you are going out against your tip, you are adding more and more side pull, which fights against you. If you are using the climb line for support like you usually have to, it gets harder and harder the further you go, exactly like sling angles in rigging. The smaller the angle, the easier it is. So your goal is to always set yourself up with easier angles, so you work smart not just hard. With srt, you can simply redirect your line, which simply means you can use a number of ways to get your line over where you want to be, then you will be able to move there much easier.
With doubled rope you don't have as many options but it still can be done (srt just gives you more options). You can simply double crotch, set up an m or vee rig, e.t.c, but if you can't go any further, you need to to get another line above where you gotta go. A great way to do this is use the tail end of your line, throw it over another limb farther out and above where you want, and then climb on that. The two different angles will really stabilize your positioning too.
If you are absolutely dead set on climbing doubled rope, you can also get around trying to isolate around limbs by lobbing your throw weight up over the limb way up there, pulling up a single line with a pulley, ring, locking crab, e.t.c, and have your doubled line in that. You then tie it off at the base of the tree, which is called a basal anchor. You double the force at the tip, but this usually isn't a problem because it's compression loading. Always bounce test every tip, simply get ready to climb and bounce into your harness. This will seat the single line by forcing small branches out of the way, and will verify that it can hold your weight before you commit to it.
With doubled rope you don't have as many options but it still can be done (srt just gives you more options). You can simply double crotch, set up an m or vee rig, e.t.c, but if you can't go any further, you need to to get another line above where you gotta go. A great way to do this is use the tail end of your line, throw it over another limb farther out and above where you want, and then climb on that. The two different angles will really stabilize your positioning too.
If you are absolutely dead set on climbing doubled rope, you can also get around trying to isolate around limbs by lobbing your throw weight up over the limb way up there, pulling up a single line with a pulley, ring, locking crab, e.t.c, and have your doubled line in that. You then tie it off at the base of the tree, which is called a basal anchor. You double the force at the tip, but this usually isn't a problem because it's compression loading. Always bounce test every tip, simply get ready to climb and bounce into your harness. This will seat the single line by forcing small branches out of the way, and will verify that it can hold your weight before you commit to it.
That was a great post, Kyle, very helpful.
I would add a tip, on the important aspect of loading to compression. When a climber goes to test pull, if the TIP moves laterally, it is not in compression. Test or at least think about the different angles that will be used when you are up there working.
The ability of an SRS to load in compression, by bisecting the angles, allows safe use of high points that would absolutely fail if used in an MRS.
I would add a tip, on the important aspect of loading to compression. When a climber goes to test pull, if the TIP moves laterally, it is not in compression. Test or at least think about the different angles that will be used when you are up there working.
The ability of an SRS to load in compression, by bisecting the angles, allows safe use of high points that would absolutely fail if used in an MRS.
Thanks for that detailed reply Kyle. I'll take a look at the tree next time I'm up there, and maybe give it another shot. There's more stuff that can come down, but not much lateral work. It'll still give me a chance to use my lanyard more, and get comfortable manipulating it/me.
pantheraba
More biners!!!
I agree with Kyle. A good high TIP makes a lot of difference.
BeerGeek
Tree Numbnutz
Pics of day 2 of the 3 maple take down. Video of the splash on the Tree Felling Vids thread. Hinge looks more respectable on this one... 
ruel
TreeHouser
Follow up view cut pics,
Last trees I cut for the view with a foot of snow down. Back today to limb and buck for fire prevention. Turns out i dropped my tidy stack of spruce right across a walking path that was hidden under the snow.
An extra hour of moving shit off the trail, winter sucks sometimes!
Last trees I cut for the view with a foot of snow down. Back today to limb and buck for fire prevention. Turns out i dropped my tidy stack of spruce right across a walking path that was hidden under the snow.
An extra hour of moving shit off the trail, winter sucks sometimes!
SeanKroll
Treehouser
ruel
TreeHouser
Nice job! I live pruning those little weeping Japanese maples, but they can be damn tricky
treebilly
Student of the Jedi. OH-7106A
Last victim of the day. Had a property owner ask me what species of oak it was. I told him the dense, heavy kind. It’s what we call willow oak. Grows like a pin oak in how the limbs grab everything and branching patterns. I really need to find out the actual name some time instead of the local slang. It had a hollow about 15 foot up and the base had about a four inch ring of healthy wood with the rest being punky mush.
Mellow
BCMA
I call them "Velcro oaks"
BeerGeek
Tree Numbnutz
treebilly
Student of the Jedi. OH-7106A
Not sure. I’ll have to get my book out eventually and start looking.
nevermind. Shingle oak is the common name. The willow oak has a narrower leaf and is not common to northern Ohio. Dang. I shamed myself into finally figuring it out
nevermind. Shingle oak is the common name. The willow oak has a narrower leaf and is not common to northern Ohio. Dang. I shamed myself into finally figuring it out
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SeanKroll
Treehouser
Weeping pussy Willow.
Just a very, very intensive deadwood and matted leaf removal, and starting to unclog the years of being poorly managed.
Next winter, round 2... Shaping.
pantheraba
More biners!!!
Very, very nice that is.
ruel
TreeHouser
You been saving your little ornamentals up Sean?
SeanKroll
Treehouser
It's the season!
More ornamentals on Monday. Some orchard trees to come.
Dead and dying trees next week, too, after killing two cedars last week.
Keeping it mixed is good.
More ornamentals on Monday. Some orchard trees to come.
Dead and dying trees next week, too, after killing two cedars last week.
Keeping it mixed is good.
Do you ever get complaints about your prunes? That would terrify me. I'm a technician. If you want something taken apart, I can get it apart eventually if not now, but doing a nice job shaping a plant is more an art, and I'm not good at art. I'd probably end ruining someone's tree for at least the foreseeable future.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
No complaints.
Always look way better than before.
Explaining my reasoning never hurts...
Things like sun penetration and air flow, natural growth habits, CODIT, targeted pruning points, anatomy, etc
Always look way better than before.
Explaining my reasoning never hurts...
Things like sun penetration and air flow, natural growth habits, CODIT, targeted pruning points, anatomy, etc
