Spur Length

I have an extreme dislike of the idea of a gaff hammered down through my Westco boot, poor soft foot bones, and into the Vibram sole.

Just sayin'...if you'd seen this happen, as I have, you'd put on and then take off those damn gaffs right at the base of the tree every effin' climb.

Walking around with them on? Not me, not in this lifetime.
 
I have an extreme dislike of the idea of a gaff hammered down through my Westco boot, poor soft foot bones, and into the Vibram sole.

Just sayin'...if you'd seen this same as I have, you'd put on and then take those damn gaffs off right at the base of the tree every effin' climb.

Walking around with them on? Not in this lifetime.

:thumbup:
 
While the vast majority of my removals are done with pole gaffs, there are thick barked trees that I break out the tree gaffs for. But once I'm up top, above the thick bark, I would much rather have the pole gaffs back on.

However it's the dead barkless removals, mostly eucs and elms that often seem almost petrified, that neither pole or tree gaffs seem to penetrate well unless they're razor sharp.

I've also found that at certain acute angles while out on laterals, the triangular configuration of conventional gaffs tends to tear and run along with the wood grain, making it difficult for me to set one of my gaffs well regardless of which set of gaffs I'm wearing or how sharp they are.

In an attempt to overcome this problem, I modified a pair of my Buck Titanium gaffs into a round gaff configuration. They are more pole gaff length in that they measure one and three quarters of an inch long when retracted, but measure two and a quarter inches long when extended when I put my weight on them.
 

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Hello again old friend!

Looking forward to some push button climbing innovations this year.

Workin a stand up saddle coupled to a triangular T bar.

Should be fun!


Jomo
 
Think about the way a cat can extend and retract its claws.

When I pull my Innoculator gaffs out of the wood, the springs snap the 3/8ths inner needle back into the retracted position that's only an inch and three quarters in length. But when I step down hard enough, the inner needle extends down a half inch, for a potential two and a quarter inch depth of penetration. No running at acute angle when one edge of the typical triangular cuts along the grain of wood like a knife.

Works well for me MB.

Jomo
 
Not really MB, I'm workin on other stuff this year.

The Innoculators solved a problem that has been plaguing me for decades. Out on a lateral with a high TIP positioning myself to the side nearest my TIP, I found myself able to set one foot no problem, but getting the other gaff to set securely was problematic because ot tore out along the grain of the wood. Initiated I believe by the edge of the triangular gaff acting like a knife along the wood grain, and tearing out.

I'm a relatively little guy at 157 lbs, though when fully decked out for removals, a little over 200 lbs.

Were i to build a pair of Innoculators for a big guy I'd make the inner penetration needles thicker, probably 7/16ths rather than 3/8ths like mine.

The Innoculators are the cat's meow in hard deadwood. Allowing you to tip toe about rather than stomp around like Godzilla!

The sweetest thing about Innoculators are the needles are essentially long grade 8 aircraft bolts. Easy to replace for about ten bucks!

Jomo
 
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