HolmenTree
Banned
Then you have to get a 346 with a 16" Andy . I sure love mine for the small light jobs.
I'm waiting for the new 562XP to back up my 346..
Short bar techniques.
- Thread starter sawinredneck
- Start date
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I'm waiting for the new 562XP to back up my 346..
sawinredneck
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #27
Bleh! Had one, modded the hell out of it, still didn't run like I wanted so I got pissed off and drunk one night and took the dremel to the 350. Sold the 346 the next week! The 350 has more torque and pulls better with my style of cutting. It pulls an 18" in hardwood with power to spare!
The MS261 is heavier than the 350, the 346 is heavier than the 350 and the 5100 is heavier than the 350. I'm thinking a torqued out reved up 40cc around 8.5-9 lbs.
I can run the 046 for about 2.5 hours, I can run the 350 for about four hours, then I'm done. My theory is something lighter, gets the job done, with some learning curve, and I'm not all beat up when I'm done.
The MS261 is heavier than the 350, the 346 is heavier than the 350 and the 5100 is heavier than the 350. I'm thinking a torqued out reved up 40cc around 8.5-9 lbs.
I can run the 046 for about 2.5 hours, I can run the 350 for about four hours, then I'm done. My theory is something lighter, gets the job done, with some learning curve, and I'm not all beat up when I'm done.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Burnam really liked his MS200 rear handle I believe.. Be almost like a 200T in weight. Wonder how that would be with like a 14 on it.
sawinredneck
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #29
They are neat, but I'm not ready to sell the 046 to buy one yet! I'm thinking a little lower in the price range my friend!
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
I had a feeling... I have the same reservations. If I had a bucket truck I would probably put out for one.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
Andy, you probably shouldn't be operating any chainsaws until you get your back squared away.
Thor's Hammer
Wolfish. Sometimes Bites.
Good Advice Butch. I really like the new 50cc 346, powerful little saw, great for what you want.
Jay, I still have those Husqvarna felling manuals. They date back to the early 80's, and yes, very detailed instructions with lots of pictures and diagrams.
Jay, I still have those Husqvarna felling manuals. They date back to the early 80's, and yes, very detailed instructions with lots of pictures and diagrams.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Ed, those go back a few years, didn't realize that.
I have the rear handle Stihl 020, the same saw as the MS200 that Burnham uses, and the one Brian kindly helped me out with an oil pump for.
14 inch bar on it which seems just right.
It has definitely become one of my most favorite saws, and for limbing, the best. I have cut a little firewood with it as well, and for anything of relatively small size, a natural for it. Having used it a good amount by now, when it is running real well with a sharp chain, the aggressiveness still surprises me. I use it a lot when doing above ground crane work, for which it is great. I assume it would apply that way for bucket work too, the rear handle model that is.
Andy, if the cost is more than you want to spend, what about keeping your eyes peeled for a used one.
I have the rear handle Stihl 020, the same saw as the MS200 that Burnham uses, and the one Brian kindly helped me out with an oil pump for.
14 inch bar on it which seems just right.It has definitely become one of my most favorite saws, and for limbing, the best. I have cut a little firewood with it as well, and for anything of relatively small size, a natural for it. Having used it a good amount by now, when it is running real well with a sharp chain, the aggressiveness still surprises me. I use it a lot when doing above ground crane work, for which it is great. I assume it would apply that way for bucket work too, the rear handle model that is.
Andy, if the cost is more than you want to spend, what about keeping your eyes peeled for a used one.
Burnham
Woods walker
I'm running a 16 in. b/c on my MS200 rear handle, predominantly in softwoods and soft hardwoods like alder and maple. It's a dream of a little saw.
Peter
Treehouser
200 isnt a bad little saw, very light and handles well. Wouldn't swap my 254 for one though.
Burnham
Woods walker
That's just as well...I wouldn't swap my 200 for your 254, either. So we can both stay happy, Peter 
.
.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
Ha.
No way I could run a saw w/o handle heat in your winters, Burnham. My poor fingers would die and fall off.
Andy, I've been working with the skidder driver today, felling trees across the forest roads and clearing them away.
Not a chance to take pictures. Hope I've better luck tomorrow.
Andy, I've been working with the skidder driver today, felling trees across the forest roads and clearing them away.
Not a chance to take pictures. Hope I've better luck tomorrow.
Burnham
Woods walker
If I had to fall timber all day, every day of the week like you do Stig, I'd have heated handles, too. And either way, the 200 rear handle isn't up to regular falling work...it's just a heckuva fine cleaning up saw.
sawinredneck
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #40
While you are right, I'm getting restless and bored!
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
Well, don't amuse yourself by hurting your back further.
sotc
Dormant hero!!
Guess i've always been well endowed in the bar length department so haven't needed to learn to take a tree to the brink with a stubby
sotc
Dormant hero!!
Sometimes.....
Tucker943
Bamboo Plantation Owner
Im back to falling trees at work for the time being. I use a 660 all day. It hurts. It really does.
sawinredneck
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #46
I don't think I could even buck with a 660 right now! I know I shouldn't!
Tucker943
Bamboo Plantation Owner
Im not digging it.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
I wasn't joking ,you can get a lot done with a little saw especially if that's all you have .Andy should heal a bit though IMO .
I'm not going to harp on old little saws .I will say though I landed an S-25 for my wifes cousin who has back problems .That one he can handle .I mean 25 bucks and runs like a top ,what more can you ask for .For that money if it dies he can throw it away .
I'm not going to harp on old little saws .I will say though I landed an S-25 for my wifes cousin who has back problems .That one he can handle .I mean 25 bucks and runs like a top ,what more can you ask for .For that money if it dies he can throw it away .
sawinredneck
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #49
I'm all for healing up Al, but the way the docs are circle jerking me around, it's going to be 2 years before I am fixed! To say the bills are mounting up is an understatement, I need to find some income to help out, and get out so I don't feel like a useless POS! I've tried the normal things with the bigger saws, and it hurt, I'm trying to think outside the box and work within my limitations as best I can.
Sorry, ranting and going OT. But there may be others with limitations such as mine, that this might be beneficial to as well. I feel it's something worth exploring and learning for another "tool in the box" if nothing else.
Sorry, ranting and going OT. But there may be others with limitations such as mine, that this might be beneficial to as well. I feel it's something worth exploring and learning for another "tool in the box" if nothing else.
At the moment all I have is a 260 with an 18' bar, bucking firewood on a foresty landing over the weekend. Lots of the trunks were at least half again as long as my bar...reducing cuts, borecuts and a WEDGE are very handy.
...boy all that nasty gravel the ants carry up into old trees, and all the dirt on the trunks from being dragged to the landing, I have never seen a chain wear out so quickly! I had a brand new RM chain...used about 3/4 of it in four hrs!
One of the handiest short bar techniques is boring in through the back of the face cut, fanning out some of the bulk of the wood in the middle of the tree (and gutting the hinge in the meantime) It allows you then start your back cut on one side and walk around the back of the tree setting wedges as you go and finish the back cut in one go, or if its a slight head leaner, bore in from either side, leaving the strap at the back to cut last.
You can get a tree like 2.5 times as wide as your bar is long...cutting the face accurately takes a bit to get right though, matching the cuts on either side.
...boy all that nasty gravel the ants carry up into old trees, and all the dirt on the trunks from being dragged to the landing, I have never seen a chain wear out so quickly! I had a brand new RM chain...used about 3/4 of it in four hrs!
One of the handiest short bar techniques is boring in through the back of the face cut, fanning out some of the bulk of the wood in the middle of the tree (and gutting the hinge in the meantime) It allows you then start your back cut on one side and walk around the back of the tree setting wedges as you go and finish the back cut in one go, or if its a slight head leaner, bore in from either side, leaving the strap at the back to cut last.
You can get a tree like 2.5 times as wide as your bar is long...cutting the face accurately takes a bit to get right though, matching the cuts on either side.
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