Roping techniques discussion

did a bucket sub job yesterday..
groundie had broken his back by taking a ride up the tree then falling. said he tried to let go of the rope but it "pulled so hard it dug into his fingers"... that didn't make much sense... must have wrapped around his hand somehow.. showed me his body cast (fiberglass shell looking thing)
 
Chris E said:
^ good post

Does anyone have any general tips for controlling swing etc on medium size wood when neg rigging very near to structure? ?
or is it just a case of doing whatever is possible within the limits of tag lines/pull ropes
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If its not a top or negative rigging, you can use a rip cut in the shoulder of the branch union to slow the swing down (flush cut on the trunk)... negative rigging is not much to do to control the swing.. its gonna slam the trunk hard, every time.....
 
ever have a problem with the boys not letting it run??? its not that they didn't try.... they just had too many wraps.... OR were standing too far from the metal... I will put the porty on the opposite side of the trunk from the LZ when practical.. If you are concerned with struck by you can always throw a redirect on the tree and stand back... we do that fairly often anyhow since we mostly will shackle the porty to the back of the bucket truck these days.. Just recently started running a block high enough to create a doorway under the horizontal line... try standing right next to the porty sometime on a big rigging job.. let me know how that works for ya...
 
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  • #32
One of my basic rules about all things. Don't position yourself where you can be crushed!


Sounds so basic, yet people want to stand where tree shrapnel will spray when the rigged piece swings into the trunk.
 
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  • #33
As Daniel points out, but to be more clear to the newer folks, Never wrap around your body, or position when you can get caught in the rope, or caught by something, like a limb, caught in the moving rope. I stack at my feet in front of me, frequently in a bag or bin.
 
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  • #34
Stack the rope at the roping location starting with the trail of the Standing End on the Bottom of the stack, with the Working End coming off the Top of the stack. Basic, but worth mentioning.
 
Daniel suggested the porty on the hitch of a truck. I would recommend using a heavy truck if you even want to consider lowering logs. A pickup can come up off the ground a bit and drag.
 
He did say bucket truck Chris. I've got a homemade bollard that plugs into the receiver on my pickup that works fine on small stuff but I would be pretty embarassed to call in a crane to get my truck out of a tree.:)
 
SouthSoundTree- said:
One of my basic rules about all things. Don't position yourself where you can be crushed!


Sounds so basic, yet people want to stand where tree shrapnel will spray when the rigged piece swings into the trunk.
Click to expand...

"Stay out of the pinch zone" as my Father-in-law says

Good stuff in here guys, lots of helpful info. There is so much to learn in this business that sometimes the basics slip and reminders are helpful.
 
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  • #40
candoarms said:
Cory,

It's all based on the principle of pressure per square inch of surface area on your rope. When natural crotching, your rope will be in contact with a very small area, placing a huge amount of friction on a very small area of rope. A whole lot of heat will build up in that small area, and very quickly. The top rigging point takes a huge amount of abuse.

Placing a block in the tree all but eliminates the friction at the most critical point in the rigging system. Using a port-a-wrap helps spread the contacting area of the rope over a much larger surface, thereby reducing the friction at any one given point on the rope.

Hope this helps.

Joel
Click to expand...

I've seen smoke from NC, once or twice.
 
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  • #41
I expect that the groundman will understand the rigging plan, so nobody and nothing gets splattered. Compared to all the other demands of tree work, Call and Respond is easy, especially when getting paid by the hour. I expect the groundman to run the rigging plan through their head, and back to me, so I know that they understand.

Ex: I'm going to face-cut the limb to steer it that way (point in direction of the face with arm). Hold some tension on the rope to support the hinge. When it breaks free, be sure to drop it clear of me. Let it run. Stop it before it hits the ground so we can land it.

Reply: Face cut, that way (point of indicate intended path of travel for the limb. Hold tension to support the hinge. Drop it away from you. Let it run. Stop it before it hits the ground.

Some people think this is too much work, I guess.

I rigged significantly leaning maples over primary and secondary lines, and important trees, today.



If its basic lowering, this whole thing is boiled down to "Snap cut, let it run". But if its basic. I'm cutting and lowering it myself, anyway.
 
Need to know what will be consider an average length for a 1/2" bull rope use on a speedline. Because I do no want to order less the correct length.
 
That would all depend on the type of trees and size of trees you work on Jose. My advise is no less than 200 feet. But I buy 300 regular for my local and tall trees.
 
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  • #48
Best tips to avoid glazing ropes with a POW/ LD?

What specifically leads to glazing? Does running a load (friction and heat) than stopping the rope, without some slow rope movement (new sections of rope against hot bollard) to take heat off the bollard, while it is also conducting the heat within, and radiating the heat off of the bollard.

Does it happen more on the section of rope taking the initial "hit" while on the bollard, or the section that is stationary on the bollard after negative-blocking a heavy piece?

Does an ice pack really help?

Most of my rope rigging thus far has not been a lot of heavy negative blocking, mostly getting by with light 1/2" rope. 9/16" stable braid as a big step up. Just got 5/8" stable braid for this cottonwood, and storm work pull/ guy rope.

Mostly, I climb. I have rarely run a POW, honestly. At State Parks we were blocking down heavy logs over a pavement one time with a 5/8" stable braid that got a little heat damage as a result. I did some wet grass surfing, running the POW from about 20' away, and getting pulled right up to it. The next piece got more wrap. :lol::big-bat:
 
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