Probably Easy Chainsaw Question for You Guys

RSWMTB

TreeHouser
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Jan 5, 2014
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Was helping a friend fell some pines on his property today (so he can expand his garden to huge-ness).

Noticed mainly when jacking the logs that my saw, while cutting, was going not straight down as I aimed it, but down and to the left (non-drive side of the saw). sometimes so much that it bogged and binded...you can look into the kerf and see "daylight" to the right of the bar as it drifts down and left.

Some data for you to work with, and some rule-outs so you don't waste key strokes...

SAW: STIHL MS 290 Farm Boss (3 months old)
BAR: Stock Bar
CHAIN: STIHL "green" oilomatic (or something like that)


Other notes:

Chain &Sharpness: I have the STIHL file guide (does teeth and rakers @ same time and has built in gauges), and I'm meticulous about using the same amount of strokes when I use it. I also swapped chains, and happens with both.


Experience: I'm not a ceritifed arborist, but I know my way around cutting, felling, and the tools of the trade.

None of my other saws have done this, so I'm doubting its a "hold" or "technique" thing...

Any thoughts?


Thanks,

R
 
A couple of things come to mind off the top of my head. Have you been flipping the bar over every time you change the chain? This can cause uneven wear on the bar if it's not flipped regularly. Take the chain off and check for burrs and uneven wear on the bar. Check the chain groove, make sure it's not worn letting the guides slop around inside of it.
If the bar looks good and checks out, then it's chain time. I try to be diligent when filling my chains as well, but you can never keep them true that way. I find about every fourth filing I need to put them on the grinder just to true them up. Just grind them all in to the same length and touch them up with a file.
Those would be where I would start looking.
 
Let's see some close-ups of those teeth. My guess would be a little off angle on one side or a little short on one side.
Welcome to the Treehouse.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #8
So have you sharpened the two chains that do this? (It does sound like a sharpening issue)

Only with STIHL file guide tool...same amount of strokes each tooth...I'm meticulous about this.

galerie-saegeketten-schaerfen-feilhilfen-2in1_rdax_90.jpg


The second chain was professionally sharpened @ local STIHL place.



sawinredneck said:
Have you been flipping the bar over every time you change the chain?


Yessiree.


sawinredneck said:
Check the chain groove, make sure it's not worn letting the guides slop around inside of it.


That I did not do :(




Husabud: I'll take some pixz tomorrow.

Mardenm: No, it does not.

Master Blaster: Thanks!


And thanks all of you for taking a minute to help a guy out!


Cheers,


R
 
Sawin's on the right track I suspect the bar's worn farther down on one side than the other.

Which is what Silvey bar grinders are made to correct in one smooth pass.

Those without electric bar grinders at their disposal, can doctor their bars manually with one of the carbide tools.
 

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Your rails are uneven, most likely. Have it profiled and you should be good to go.

Second most likely cause is the teeth are longer on one side of your chain than the other.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #12
Sawin's on the right track I suspect the bar's worn farther down on one side than the other.

Which is what Silvey bar grinders are made to correct in one smooth pass.

Those without electric bar grinders at their disposal, can doctor their bars manually with one of the carbide tools.



yeah, when I had the sew in for the 2 month check-up, "Tom" used that tool on the bar...


Thanks for all the feedback guys!
 
I stick an abrasive cutting wheel on my tablesaw and lightly pass the bar edge along the side of the wheel to square the edge. I imagine that you could also do similar on a skillsaw turned upside down, if you could mount a wheel. Pretty easy to take out irregularities in the bar edge and reshape it. Wear safety glasses.
 
I remember having trouble with crooked cuts long ago. I think I musta sucked at sharpening back then. I have had chains that got dinged up a little and they had some different tooth lengths. It didn't really seem to make a lot of difference.
 
I guess if you bought a new chain and tried that it would resolve the bar or chain issue.
I would be surprised if after only two months the bar needed work.
Don't be surprised if the professionaly sharpened chain was done by the least knowledgeable guy in the workshop.
Tell us the outcome anyway, and welcome.
Quick edit, I see that on your two month checkup they did work on the bar.
Has the problem arisen since then?
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #17
I'll zero in on the bar, as it does the same thing with either chain.

Tom did the sharpening, and is a STIHL rep, so that's low on my suspcion list. I'll go out in the shed today and take some pix.

I'll take it in Monday to the shop. and will let you all know th eoutcome.

Thanks guys
 
I stick an abrasive cutting wheel on my tablesaw and lightly pass the bar edge along the side of the wheel to square the edge. I imagine that you could also do similar on a skillsaw turned upside down, if you could mount a wheel. Pretty easy to take out irregularities in the bar edge and reshape it. Wear safety glasses.

I would like to know more about your set-up......type of wheel....just anything you could add.....pic, would be a plus.
Ron
 
I am betting on:
the dude "TOM" set up the sharpener for all of the left teeth, then he did not re-adjust the pawl for the right teeth, which took off too much cutter. Now you have different raker heights for each left cutter compared to each right cutter, and you now have a chain that will pull no matter which bar or saw it is installed on.

Quick way to check - purchase a cheapo home depot bar and chain setup ..............
1. make 1 cut with new B&C - will cut straight
2. make 1 cut with new bar and old "Tom" sharpened chain - guessing it will pull to one side
3. make 1 cut with old bar and new chain - guessing all will be fine

Or - just get a new chain and put it on ............... still guessing all will be fine
 
I guess if you bought a new chain and tried that it would resolve the bar or chain issue.
I would be surprised if after only two months the bar needed work.

You mean there are actually people who can make a chain last 2 months?


First thing I'd do was to check the bar for burrs along the edges.
That is the most common cause for cutting crooked among firewood cutters here.
 
No wonder.
I meant to write "bar" not "chain".

I'm a logger.
Only way I could make a bar last 2 months, would be to stay home in bed.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #23
I am betting on:
the dude "TOM" set up the sharpener for all of the left teeth, then he did not re-adjust the pawl for the right teeth, which took off too much cutter. Now you have different raker heights for each left cutter compared to each right cutter, and you now have a chain that will pull no matter which bar or saw it is installed on.

Quick way to check - purchase a cheapo home depot bar and chain setup ..............
1. make 1 cut with new B&C - will cut straight
2. make 1 cut with new bar and old "Tom" sharpened chain - guessing it will pull to one side
3. make 1 cut with old bar and new chain - guessing all will be fine

Or - just get a new chain and put it on ............... still guessing all will be fine


Thats an awesome theory, but Tom didn't touch the other chain, and cutting down and left with either chain.

??
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #25
For those who asked for pix to aid in diagnosis, here ya go...


The main chain...

DSC03789.jpg


Sprocket...

DSC03792.jpg


Other chain (one that was shop sharpened)...


DSC03795.jpg

DSC03796.jpg



The bar (not the best pix, sorry):

DSC03793.jpg

DSC03794.jpg
 
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