Cleaning Saws?

[lxskllr]

My 2511 hasn't been operating at 100%, so I thought I'd take a look today. I have the low jet up against the limiter, but I'm reluctant to boost it more cause I'm unconvinced that's the problem. I checked the plug(looked good), and closed the gap a smidge. It called for .026, and that's probably what it was, but my closest gauge was .025, so I closed it to that. I want to wait to check the exhaust for carbon buildup til I get through all my Stihl silver oil. I'll then be switching to Red Armor, and I want to compare results.

Anyway... I broke all the easy stuff down to clean, but the cylinder fins had an oily coat on them on the recoil side. I got a lot of the crud out of the case and fins using a wire, but I feel like a 100% disassembly would be the way to do a real good cleaning. How far do you guys go cleaning your saws, especially the top handles with tight assembly? Any tips for doing a good job decrudding them?

I'd do some other saws, but my back's angry at me. Enough bending over saws for one day.

 

[flushcut]

I just use compressed air around the sprocket, carb, and the fuel/oil caps.

 

[lxskllr]

You might want to pull the recoil off your 2511, and check the flywheel/cylinder, especially if you use it a lot and/or push it hard. Mine was pretty well caked in crud, and that had to affect cooling. Clutch side looked pretty good. Nothing tacky, and just the routine amount stuff I'd expect to see.

 

[SeanKroll]

Open the chain brake assembly for compressed air cleaning. Top-handles/ outboard clutches need cleaning under the brake band, routinely.

Taking of the plastic shrouds 'under' the outboard clutch, and around an inboard clutch, along with cleaning beneath the starter cover are good moves. Look at your cooling fins, scraping then with an appropriately-sized tool.

 

[Mellow]

I just run them till they stop and then buy a new one.

 

[flushcut]

^saw abuser! Terrible, just terrible you should be ashamed!!