Need some advice for rigging line purchase

TREEBOAT

TreeHouser
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Aug 3, 2015
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Location
SE Tenn. in the Smoky Mountains
I need to purchase some new rigging line. Maximum tree size is about 24-30 inch diameter at base on average pines. I have been using 1/2 inch three strand nylon for blocking down chunks of the stems (with 3/4 braid eye slings for 5/8 block support & same for porta-wrap) and it handles it, but I think it might be pushing the envelope. Would like to move up to a braided 9/16 bull line since I have some hardwoods to do as well. Preferably something that Tree Stuff handles where I purchase 90% of my gear.
I'm a home owner with multiple tree lots not a professional. Thanks for advice guys
 
Those are all good suggestions. If you natural crotch just go with 1/2 16 strand like Hi-Vee. It is far stronger than the 3 strand and will last a lot longer.
 
I stick with 1/2" Stable Braid for up to 1000#, 500# when negative rigging. Beyond that, and I go to 9/16". I only break out the 5/8" or 3/4" for big stuff, and I use short lines for that. Most big wood rigging (for me, at least), is normally under 50' high. No need for the extra wear on a 150' or 200' rope when 100' will suffice, plus you don't have all that excess rope in the way on the ground.
 
Treeboat, you will be much happier with the overall performance and handling of braided line
 
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Thanks for all the good advice. I climb on braided lines and much prefer braided lines for all applications. In my former business life we only used braided lines, I just happened to have some three strand available for taking down some nasty/pitchy pines. For the balance of the work on my place I want to use braided rigging lines.
9/16 seems to be a good overall size for the loads I have to deal with at these tree sizes (by my calculations) and just needed some confirmation on this and some ideas on specific manufacturers products that professionals were using with satisfaction. No one offers safe working loads for rigging lines so you have to extrapolate backwards from the published mean breaking loads for what you can safely load the lines. 9/16 high strength braided wins. appreciate the comments.
 
Sterling Atlas looks cool. Polydyne will have a similar amount of stretch. Never tried the Husky (which is on awesome sale @ Treestuff.com right now), but I bet that has some stretch as well. Stable Braid has very little spring to it.

I'm still beating on some polydyne, but have 200' of Atlas waiting in the wings. . .
 
The Atlas is nice, light and good for knots, 1/2 husky is great but gets fuzzy with natural crotch.
 
Our most used rigging line is the 12 strand orange buzzzline. When the loads get higher the crew steps up to Double Esterlon either ½" or ⅝"
 
I buy stable braid by the spool, love it

Just bought 300' foot more of it. Can't go wrong with Stable braid.
Yale Esterlon milks like a mofo IME.
Teifelberger lines tough. Bit more heat resistant.... in spec.
Hockle a bit more than the SB maybe because of the way the core and sleeve are linked together.
Stable braid is more reasonable in price. SO good value for the buck.
Frans recently posted some pictures of the All Gear rope cover failing. They are thinking it might be a bad batch. The core still held the piece, but the rope was done. More to come up on that I am sure.
Yale Polydyne has a lot of stretch ... something to consider over targets. Great energy absorption.
 
I agree on the Double Esterlon, Stephen. I bought a 200' hank a few years ago, because it was a little cheaper than Stable Braid, and I wanted to give it a try. If/when the tape pulls off the end, it begins to ravel with a vengeance. I've had Stable Braid that I neglected to re-tape, and used it for months, with only a couple of inches of ravel. And it's nothing to have 4-6" of cover milked off the end every few weeks. Never noticed Stable Braid doing that.
 
I imagine it's milking ability would make it great on splicing. But I would have Nick chime in on the different ropes and how they are to splice. I am a dip or tape whipper knot man myself.
 
Here is the pic Nick. Husky from Allgear. Frans posted that the rigged piece was well within spec and it should have been fine. I lean towards believing the man that drops Volvos from trees.
 

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That would freak me out. I've snapped a 3/4 line two times in negative rigging. Once was a piece way to big and over wrapped long ago, and the other was last fall when I didn't check my block orientation and the line crossed over the locking pin. No major harm in either but really made me think. Seeing that would bother me a lot. A mistake on my end I can accept blame for but a flawed product I can't.
 
That kind of makes sense if what we've heard about Husky rigging lines is true. They have a nylon core with a lot of fiber packed into it, based on their MBS data vs other lines of the same construction and diameter. They have a Poly cover, which has less stretch, and way less strength, than the nylon core.

So. . . On a full working load, a shock load no less, you'd be stretching the hell out of that core while the cover just couldn't keep up.

Interesting.
 
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