Need Advice on Stain/Preservative

[Ol' Hickory]

What would be best to put white pine board and batten siding? Any thoughts?

 

[Tucker943]

Come on now, anyone? Best I can think of is bar oil lol!

 

[woodworkingboy]

Can you elaborate more specifically on what you want to do. There are lots of commercially available exterior finishes that have a stain in them.

 

[brendonv]

A friend uses, used motor oil. It looked really nice, if you want a darker stain color. Obviously not the choice if you want to retain the natural lighter colors.

I'm collecting logs to do my garage B+B, I love the look.

 

[Ol' Hickory]

Can you elaborate more specifically on what you want to do. There are lots of commercially available exterior finishes that have a stain in them.

I don't know much about it really. I'm putting it on a house I bought and really just want something that will make it last and look decent.

 

[Ol' Hickory]

A friend uses, used motor oil. It looked really nice, if you want a darker stain color. Obviously not the choice if you want to retain the natural lighter colors.

I'm collecting logs to do my garage B+B, I love the look.

I've seen used motor oil used and I like the looks but......

I love the look of B+B also.

 

[Ol' Hickory]

Would tung oil be a reasonable option?

 

[Al Smith]

Depends on what you want to do with it .If you want natural color I don't think anything will keep it from darkening from exposure to the sun .

For interior stain I normally use minwax .I've used Old Masters with good luck but I can't get it locally any more .

Oh maybe 15-18 years ago I reslated some patio furniture with pine which was all I had at the time .Stained it dark oak then shot on spar urethane with a paint sprayer .It stayed nice for ever 10 ten years until I had to do it again .

Being pine though it has seen it's better days and now it's time to redo it .This time it will be with white oak and that will most likely last forever .Problem will only be moving the stuff because with oak the chairs will weigh a ton .

 

[Ol' Hickory]

Thanks, I don't mind if it gets dark. I don't want the gray though.

 

[woodworkingboy]

I used Tung oil for years, and still use something similar today. Tung oil is a finish for woodwork, and sometimes it gets mixed into oil based paints, but it isn't for an exterior application is my understanding. It doesn't hold up well against moisture. Sometimes it doesn't hold up well for interior application either.

 

[Ol' Hickory]

I thought I'd read somewhere that the Chinese used it to waterproof ships. I could be wrong though.

 

[woodworkingboy]

I have to say that my own experience with it, and the tests that I have read to determine how the various ways it is marketed differ in moisture protection, 100% or with petroleum distillates mixed into it for quicker drying, nothing leads me to believe that it is very good for exterior.

 

[Al Smith]

They put some kind of translucent sealer on cedar fancy siding to keep it looking nice .It looks good and will take weather with nothing on it but after a couple years it gets all funky gray and looks like an old barn .

To me that would kind of suck to spend all that money on cedar to have look like it's a hundred years old in about 4 years .

I can't honestly answer the question because with exception of the patio furniture I either paint it or use paint like stain .

 

[Burnham]

Any preservative that retains the natural color of the raw wood, or something close to it, will have to be renewed with frustrating regularity. I went down that road with our house, Doug fir and red cedar board and batten. After trying an oil based clear finish that needed redo on an every other year basis, I changed over to a colored stain, which only upped the maintenance cycle to every 3 years. I now use a full pigment acrylic paint, and the repaint cycle is 6-7 years.

I hate house painting with a passion...if you love it, clear stain away to your heart's content .

 

[woodworkingboy]

A lot of folks like this line of products for both interior and exterior. It's not cheap, however, but I would say a superior product. German.

http://www.osmona.com/

 

[stig]

I'd use a mix of linseed oil and wood tar. Bout 2/3 oil to 1/3 tar.
Then add a bit of iron sulfate to prevent staining by fungus/mold, and you are good to go.
That has kept the Norwegian Stave churches sound for 800+years.

 

[Al Smith]

The gable ends of our house is red cedar I think which is cut to resemble flitches .Fact the last I got two years ago came from Burnby BC and cost a danged kings ransom .

It's stained with solid stain from Sherwin Williams .About every 7 -8 years it's gets a coat which isn't bad considering .The stuff doesn't peal like paint it just gets dingy looking then I have to listen to the Mrs squawk about it .Easier to daub on some stain that to hear that forever .

 

[sawinredneck]

You could use a Thompson deck type stain and just spray it on with a hand pump sprayer. I've done gazebo's like that before, pressure wash them, let dry then spray the stain on

 

[Ol' Hickory]

Thanks for the ideas. I'll be looking into all of them.

 

[Ol' Hickory]

I ended up going with the Thompson's watersealer (the honey gold color)

This is the front porch:


I have a long way to go but I'm happy with the outcome so far.