MS660, sleeper, or dud?

I've attempted to encourage people to do their own tweeks .You don't start out with a 1200 dollar brand new Ms 660 though .Get a 50 dollar special to play with first then work your way up .

You have to remember these so called tuning gurus weren't born with the ability,they learned it .Then too I realize not everybody is wrench head like myself .;)
 
I am all about safety and the bozo's that mod their saws throw safety out of the window. I should report ya'll to OSHA and OHAS!
 
Oh puleeze don't sic the chainsaw police on me .The punishment is terrible even for slight infractions .They make you watch hours of Julia Childs trying to cook and hours of listening to Tiny Tim play has uke while tiptoing through the tulips .
 
Who said anything about the chainsaw police? It's high time that we stop straying down the modded saw path and get back on the right track, SAFETY!
 
I'm going to turn my modded saws into the Red Cross now. I'll still have two. Big wood and bucking are where mods keep me interested.

Really, there is a very practical side, when you want to do the back cut asap, like when driving trees through other trees, and the barber chair scenario. A larger unmodded saw might give the same results, but that entails carrying it until 4. :|:
 
So, uh, I've got a brand spankin (well ok less than 20 hrs on it) 660. It needs to be awakened. She runs well, but I can tell there's a beast in there that needs to be unleashed. I am having a tough time finding anyone local that will do it. Does anyone know of anybody in the PNW who might be into a project?
 
What about canadiantreeman? A basic working woods mod is not so difficult. Guaranteed results!

Toss the base gasket to reduce squish and raise compression, open up the ports, and maybe lighten up the piston. Growl...:X
 
CTM, all of my mods I shipped out east to get done. I would not try to learn to do it myself on a new 660 imo.
 
So, uh, I've got a brand spankin (well ok less than 20 hrs on it) 660. It needs to be awakened. She runs well, but I can tell there's a beast in there that needs to be unleashed. I am having a tough time finding anyone local that will do it. Does anyone know of anybody in the PNW who might be into a project?

Send it off to Ed Heard. Ed has done all of our work for years. He da man!
 
Agreed, a new and valuable saw might not be the wisest choice for your first mod, but the general rule that most advise, is to get yourself some old cylinders and a piston or two to practice on. That way you will learn what cutters will work best in those tight quarters, etc., and gain control when doing clean shaping and polishing....also learning how to modify squish and timing. There is good advise to be had here and elsewhere. Being a young person, if your intention is to stay in the trade where you will be using chainsaws for many years to come, being able to work on your own saws will enhance your experience in some different ways, imo. That isn't to say that having someone of known skill work on your saws is a bad thing, on the contrary, but more trying to look at it from the broader perspective of the years to come. An investment in time is required, but along with it can come a lot of enjoyment and satisfaction. When your saw rips and you know why through your own hands, it's pretty cool. On the other hand, it does occur that you might not have any interest in the process.
 
On a new MS660 I would try a Dual Port oem cover and open that pencil eraser hole side outlet first. Open cage inside muffler at rear or remove. Then adjust retune carb richer. Might need to remove stops on H and L.
Then if that isnt enough for you, basic woods porting is costing $150 - $250 now days. Most have moved to the $200-$250 range. Some even offer domed pistons with the work.
 
Those really are reasonable prices for the work involved. I mean you could crank one out in a number of hours within a day, but I think a full day or more is pretty realistic for a woods mod, especially when involving some machine work on the cylinder base and piston crown.
 
Last piston domed and shaved cylinder cost me $40 by a machinist.

Not into pop ups anymore even though I have a few left in a 026 346. Reason being you score one and if you dont have the gear to do yourself you have to wait in line. Plus I like being able to slap a stock piston in them if something happens and not have to wait.
My 084 without pop up was no different then my 084 with domed piston. My 066 with flat top had more grunt then a lot I ran with pop up. My best 372 had pop up in it and I havent ran one that comes close with a flat top, but at least I can switch pistons without having to get a piston turned.
My 7900 with offset pop up piston really got me thinking on that. So only stock pistons with flat tops for me from now on.
 
Steve, why would you need to be switching pistons? Pop ups shouldn't be burning up, as a rule. So far I have never had to replace a modified piston, even with a tight squish and hard use. It's certainly possible that damage will occur, but then you might be looking at replacing more than just the piston.
 
I'm Kevin. Never had to, but was going to have to one time. Running 7900 with off set pop up and 32" bar doing rip cuts in in 90 degree to 100 degree heat on a job for a guy. Never noticed anything wrong, but when I pulled the saw down for a cleaning, I could tell the piston had gotten hot along with ring.
Just made me think. If I want to be more self efficient I should do flat tops only, where I can tear down replace and get it going again. I never want to depend on someone else to have pistons done. Plus I dont want to buy a lathe. I was also shown how to do it on my drill press with end mill bit. But I'm not into it.

Even though I am waiting right now for a machinist to finish some parts for me so I can get my plow truck ready.

Copyofpeppers07football7900pisto-1.jpg

Copyofpeppers07football7900piston02.jpg
 
Sorry Kev, of course!

As long as you are staying within the guidelines of clearance, a pop up should hold up. There is a greater tendency to blow a ring out of it's groove, but once again there are guidelines. How a saw is used would be a factor as well. Cooking it with a dull chain does no man no good.
 
Kevin, what oil mix ratio do you like for modified saws? I use 35:1 With the higher compression and greater revs, depending on the mod, it seems that a bit more oil would be good.
 
32:1 100% synthetic Klotz. On the above saw I was running 80% synthetic 20% castor oil Klotz. I feel that oil saved that saw that day. Otherwise it could have been toasted.
 
Just wondering if there was a new ring on the piston, not yet seated and getting some results from the combustion blowing by? No doubt that a pop up with tighter squish will produce more heat on the crown.
 
CTM, all of my mods I shipped out east to get done. I would not try to learn to do it myself on a new 660 imo.

Dear lord I'm not trying it myself!!! About all I'm good for in regards to saw maintenance are the basics. I wouldn't fuddle around with it myself unless I was under the supervision of someone who knew how to put the thing back together properly!
 
There is that one philosophy about doing things. "If you have never tried, don't start now". I think that some surfer came up with the concept, not wanting his local break becoming even more crowded.
 
So, uh, I've got a brand spankin (well ok less than 20 hrs on it) 660. It needs to be awakened. She runs well, but I can tell there's a beast in there that needs to be unleashed. I am having a tough time finding anyone local that will do it. Does anyone know of anybody in the PNW who might be into a project?

I'm with Al & WWBoy, I'm doing all my own work in my machine shop here. But if you want to try a "local" guy I've heard, (read), SIMONIZER does a nice job & he is in BC. Check out AS on the web, he is a sponser there.

steve
 
Back
Top