MS460 stalls

They make o-rings in a material much more durable to alcohol than buna-n .I'd have to do some research on the subject to find out exactly what material it is and the durameter ( hardness ) is .A regular buna- n is 70 durameter .

On the other hard at approx. 7 cents a pop just buy a bag and you'd never run out .
 
stig said:
Quit teasing us with that 461.
Show us some stats instead.
I'm REALLY looking forward to seeing how it compares to my beloved 441.
Click to expand...

I'll have to dig deeper for specs. The saw is a arctic heated handle one so it will be heavier etc.

I cant read the info on the tag as it's from ? I will post and see if you can translate it.

461b.jpg
 
I only run saws with the arctic package. We do our logging in winter and my fingers are frigged up badly from 30+ years of running chainsaws.

76,5 cubic centimeters

4,4 kW power

Weight is 6,7 kilogrammes ( I'm NOT going to translate that for you, time for you guys to join the rest of the world and get metric:lol:)

I'm off to bed, tomorrow I'll find the stats for the 441 and compare.

We have a 441 that is about ready for retirement, this may just be an interesting replacement.

Thanks for alerting me to the fact that it is available.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #32
So now my decomp valve, which hasn't worked since I got it, decided it was a good time to stay open, so it stalls again. I"ll have to take off the top plastic cover to hopefully see that it screws off from the outside, but I have a feeling that it screws in from the inside of the cylinder. Just haven't had time since I discovered this yesterday as I was cutting some firewood without gloves and felt the hot gases on my fingers of my left hand. Dumb luck. Generally, I always wear gloves.
 
I don't think it's possible for a decomp to screw in from the inside of the cylinder. Should use a 13mm deep socket and just unscrew it like a spark plug.
 
Before taking the decomp off, you might try shooting some solvent into it and working it open and closed, then blowing it out if you have a compressor. Sometimes it can free up the movement.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #36
I was hoping someone would have the good word that its a simple out and in replacement action.

I'll try some solvent to see if it cleans up. Maybe it will even work properly without replacing it. Its not hard to start without the decomp, but would be easier. If its that easy to fix, it should be a cheap repair either way.
 
Sean, the decomp is super easy to remove and replace. Just about the same as removing a spark plug. Get the correct size deep socket (I believe it should be 13mm) and unscrew it. I recommend using an air nozzle and cleaning around it thoroughly before removing it so you don't knock crap into the cylinder once it's off.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #39
After the loose spark plug fix, I found that the decompression valve was sticking open. This saw's previous owner was using it for some shovel logging, or something, and had a branch fall out of the tree and crack the top, inner dog bolt hole, and the decomp valve shaft was bent, so I never used it. Not a big deal to me either way on a 460 and smaller. Anyhoo, I was able to remove the valve from the outside, easily, as I think Brian indicated, squirted it with some penetrating oil, which I think was Al's advice, used vice grips and channel locks, and straightened the bent shaft. After working it back and forth some, replaced it, fired it right up.

The reminder diagnostic lesson I'm taking away from this is that if a saw strangely stalls periodically after running just fine, check the simple stuff, like is the spark plug wire on tight, or is it just close enough to arc, and is the spark plug tight, or just enough to have okay compression at high idle. The new lesson was, sometimes the decomp sticks open, and is easy enough to fix.

Thanks for the tips.
 
Southsound, I have had the same experience with my 201 , come to find out when the fuel would get on about 1/4 tank the fuel filter would get lodged somewhere in the fuel tank were it couldn't get fuel. Maybe that will help.
 
The only fuel filter that I have ever seen go bad was one that was completely melted in the tank, looked like a piece of old used chewing gum. Saw from a landfill. I don't know the circumstances, but it seems like the gas would disappear before sitting long enough to melt the filter, but maybe in a sealed full tank it doesn't evaporate quick enough. That saw really stunk too.
 
I think that it was the decompression valve sticking.

Replaced in time to not blow up the saw from running to lean, as I understand it. Saw mechanics, please correct me.
 
Its funny you wouldn't notice the hissing sound Sean with the decomp down wide open. But yeah even partially on you would get a lean condition with the extra ingestion and exhaust of air and fuel/air charge.
But I think your original problem was the plug right? Too wide of a plug electrode gap will make them stall too
 
Its funny you wouldn't notice the hissing sound Sean with the decomp down open. But yeah even partially on you would get a lean condition with the extra ingestion and exhaust of air and fuel/air charge.
But I think your original problem was the plug right? Too wide of a plug electrode gap will make them stall too.
 
Saws run for me, mostly. It might have been an intermittent issue.

My old conservation crew members would tell me that their saws would keep stalling. I asked them if they wanted to trade. They said no, it wouldn't help. I'd sharpen and run their saw, and it would run fine. I just didn't dawdle around waiting for it to stall. I was cutting. If I sat there wondering if it was about to stall, it probably would have. The conservation corps' saws...rode hard, put up wet.

I did notice the decomp was vibrating up and down, and replaced it at some point.

So often the 460 is run by employees. I very rarely use the 460 in the tree, and often go for either the 361 or 660 on the ground.

Always stalls after active cutting. Usually, when I have the saw running, I'm actively cutting, not letting the saw come all the way down to idle very long.

Dunno.

Keeps throwing chips well.

When you have so many things to manage, things don't always get the attention they need.
 
SouthSoundTree said:
DingDingDing. We have a winner. The spark plug.

I was not starting with the simple stuff.

The plug was loose and worn. From the feel of it, seemed like some carbon build-up on the threads was keeping the spark plug kinda tight, and the compression from dropping off noticeably. I don't use that saw much, as I do the in-tree work mostly.

A new plug was sitting in the truck, just waiting to go in somewhere. Now to resupply. Best to keep extras on hand.


I"ll also check the fuel filter and see how it looks.

Thanks for reminding me to start with the basics.
Click to expand...


I guess the pop-up was a different issue, at a different time. Some guys up here remove the pop-up decomp valve with a bolt so they don't have to worry about burning up a saw.

Better to burn a saw than a shoulder.

I'm thinking of getting an electric climbing saw to avoid so many pull starts.
 
Back in the day we never had de comps, my 372XP was my first to have it.
Wait one did BITD thats my 090's:D
I never loan my saws out so I always have any issues in sight at all times.
Like I said when a spark plug gap widens up with age which is normal stalling at idle is common. Logging I used to change the plug bi weekly whether it needed it or not.
But you didn't mention Sean about carb adjustment which is the primary thing to check first. Owner manuals have all that info for you.
 
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