How Big A Swing Are You Willing To Take Before Saying "No!"?

Great vid, Treesmith.

I've done it 1x.
 
@Altissimus

Have you considered a hook or ground- based 'belay' with your tail (maybe better on SRT without MA, but i don't think the DdRT shouldn't move much if your swing is arrested.

A groundie can also pull your tail towards the branch tip.
 
Done the ground tail pull before , just going with I have good results with (plus I work alone probably more than most here do)
 
I hate the fast moves, really, so the swings are out of my plans. I very rarely limb walk for this reason, just in case.
My usual way is setting my second climb line further with my telescopic pole, hauling my self while easing the first climb line. If I need more, I choke a sling here on the limb, clip my first line in it as a secondary TIP, release my second line and put it a step further, and so on.
If it's a weak limb, I clip my saddle on the sling instead of the rope, advance the second line and tension it, unclip the sling and haul. The first line stays loaded and hopefully follows me directly without being stopped by an other limb overhead. That way, most of my weight is constantly on my main TIP and few of it on the limb. But it's less easy.
 
High line example of a pine that had a real nasty spot on the trunk. All trees were dead, but the two next to it were in good enough shape to run a high line through to work the compromised tree. we did some light lining on some of the limbs to keep them out of the creek off the tree. Nothing heavy though. Not posting in order though. Backwards. and double. Geezus 20170510_123238.jpg 20170510_120614.jpg 20170510_111046.jpg 20170510_111006.jpg 20170510_110954.jpg 20170510_123238.jpg 20170510_120614.jpg 20170510_111046.jpg 20170510_111006.jpg 20170510_110954.jpg IMG952132.jpg IMG952131.jpg
 
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The times I’ve done it, I girth hitched a friction saver into a bowline on a bight and ran my climbline through the rings for just a pinch more friction than a block/pulley would provide.
 
Done it with a prussic on the high line as well. Then just use the crab in the prussic for tie in. Just opted for the movement of the pulley here. Let the high line equalize load to both the tie in trees.
 
I set a line like that for a roofer So he could roof a church in the redwoods. Steep roof. Don't it figure, But nice tall "clean" redwoods to climb and rig from. I set the line high enough, and angled so he could work both sides, without having to change it. Got Lucky.

Now setting up a system and wrecking a hazard tree all by yourself can add up to a long day of climbing. Thank gawd for the big shot.

You're a manimal, Stephen.
 
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  • #63
Maybe, but you're doing it, and you do it well. Not bad for an old frig in a young man's game ;^)
 
This is a good idea, which I used recently.


Test your breakaway set-up with several break-tests to dial in your zip-tie needs or other means of breakaway.




A ground-worker can 'belay' your SRT tail to prevent you from hitting the anchor tree. Easy work, sitting in a chair in the safe area.
John,
Let me know if you want me on the belay end standing at the ready!!
 
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  • #70
Will do!

It's gonna be awhile before anything happens. The wood I walked over for to see if they wanted me to do the work is still there. The way my boss explained it, they wanted the downed wood removed that was pushed up against the woodsline by some numpty. They wanted *much* more done than that, and that pushed up wood, the most visible part of the job, is still there. By the time it's done. it'll be a full log truck worth of wood removed.

I wanted to work on the stuff in the woods first. Both as proof of concept for dealing with the wood, and to clean things up so I could skid wood out while staying off the grass. The climbing, if it's done at all, will be last. Personally, if it were my property, I'd leave the snags as habitat trees. None of them will hurt anything if they fall, and they aren't gonna do anything interesting with the space anyway. The woman said she wants to put a cow in there. That's insane. It isn't any more than 1ac, and the whole lot isn't that much ground. Might be a 3ac parcel altogether, and that's house/lawn/human stuff...

I selectively cut around some of the trees. I've left a locust, and a couple walnuts, some cherries... That isn't what they wanted, but we'll see if they ignore/forget about it. Since the cow's a dumb idea, maybe they'll enjoy the hardwood replacement of the white pine grove. If not, I can remove them later. I'm hoping they'll stay.
 
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  • #72
The "bad" tree can be felled, but it's gonna go into the maple, and probably get hung up. I'd then have to walk it down cutting a bit at a time, and I don't really like doing that. An option I didn't previously think of was felling it into the maple, then setting a line above it to work it down from the top. I don't think the trees are setup to make that possible, but I'll have to take a look to see if that can be done.

The "good" tree can be felled I think, but it'll require precision to not hit a couple of the trees I saved. Technically viable, but I'm not sure I've got the chops to make it happen. In fact, I know I don't. I might fell the tree, and it'll fall in the perfect hole, but that's just statistical luck that it went exactly where I wanted. I'm more a shotgunner than a rifleman felling trees. I've done a couple good falls, but I can't say it was 100% me, and not random chance. I couldn't point to the stump and say "Of course it went there. Where else could it have gone?"
 
Walking it down can be done with vertical slice cuts.

It can be done with a face-cut, and back-cut, podsibly stabilized with wedges, and pulled by rope remotely to trip, or pushed from a remote spot with a pusher stick.

You don't need to be at the butt when it moves.


Two oppossed face-cuts, spread apart allows folding... usually for when it's still attached to the stump, but a standard vertical walk-down cut will jam the butt solidly into soil/ gravel, holding the butt for a fold-up.



Facing cutting various different directions allows various outcomes.

Steeper bole/ closer butt to support tree, flatter bole (butt is pulled to fold facecut away from support tree), butt to the right, butt to the left.
 
I like to do that. Bit by bit, you can move the butt of the tree where you want and not at all where it wanted to go, eventually reversing the lay, avoiding a target, "consuming" the length of the tree at the same place... Some times, the tricky part is trying to keep the top hung up in the other limbs long enough to work the butt like you planed.
 
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