hammer handle rw up for grabs

SouthSoundTree

SouthSoundTree

Treehouser
Joined
Sep 1, 2010
Messages
5,958
Location
Olympia, WA
I was given my hammer handle rw back today. I have a zk-1, and hh prototype (at least until the production hh come out, if Paul wants the proto back for posterity).

If anyone/ people want to experiment with srt, but don't want to invest the money (yes, invest) on a rw, or are waiting on production HHs (I would wait), I'll send it to you, free.

Cons: a bit bulkier than zk1, and not midline attachable.
Pro: free srt device
 
I would like to give it a try and i would pass it on to anyone else who wants to try it. I assume it's not as good as the metal versions, but it has to give the user an idea of what it's all about right?

I have wanted to try but I am hesitant because I don't think I will like it and this would be a great way to try it out.
 
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  • #3
Done. PM me your address. I have it sorta tuned to my weight, about 200 pounds, for use with 11.7 mm poison ivy. It has two holes for the rope, so if you're climbing on 1/2", you might need to ream out one hole a bit with a round chainsaw file, or whatever. If I recall correctly, I put in a second hole to play with the length. Not too long after this hammer handle wooden rope wrench, the ZK1 came out. I climber SRT with at GriGri/ Rads previously, and liked its ability to change from SRT to DdRT (mostly with a Ring and Ring) without any adjustment, just not so smooth as a hitch. I think the hitch/ metal combo is great, and have very, very high hopes for the production HH.

Hope you like SRT! More tools to add in the bag.

I"ll get to the post office this weekend, hopefully. There's a substation open down the street from me on Friday, but not Sat.

.
 
Thanks Sean. I have been wanting to try the RW for a while now but I just don't think I will like it. I am also pretty excited for the HH to come out, although I read that it might not work well for heavier climbers (like me).

Anyhow, I will play around with this for a little while and if anyone else wants to try it out just speak up and I will pass it on. There has got to be others out there who want to try SRT out but are a bit hesitant.
 
I read it on someone's Facebook Page. They said if too much weight was present, the biner would essentially pinch off the rope. I took it to mean that if you weighed too much it would not be smooth.

And I consider 240+ lbs to be heavy.
 
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  • #9
probably a hitch adjustment, maybe an extra wrap, would be all it takes.

"pinch off" meaning what?
 
I took it to mean it has the potential to lock down on the rope so much that you wouldn't be able to ascend or descend. Maybe I got it from a bad source or just misunderstood.
 
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  • #12
The hammer handle (so super fancy :) ) will get you started...the HH or production RW can keep you hooked.
 
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  • #14
What are you climbing typically, species, size, obstacles? for what kinds of work?

With a good, high tie in point, you can get way out on tips that you wouldn't otherwise be able to get to so easily by dropping through crotches. Say if you had to cut way out near a house away from the main TIP, you could ascend to the high TIP and set if you want to, you can arrange one line for re-accessing and one to do the work. Go out for one work quadrant, and drop through crotches, do your work, lower down to the ground and come back to the base, ropewalk up or otherwise ascend, do another quadrant, and pull both ropes from the ground. If it easier, you can climb back through crotches and redescend to get to other work areas in the tree.


Understanding force vectors (Using compressional forces on limbs by going through crotches rather than pulling more in shear, somewhat sideways on a limb/ crotch) allows you to work out on smaller wood without all the redirects and friction of two parts of rope going opposite directions through a crotch or biner or double biners attached to one redirection sling.

Fighting friction is highly reduced. Having to protect the tree against friction is greatly eliminated (if need be, you can use leather or fancy cambium savers or just tubular webbing. Isolating a line is reduced/ eliminated. Ground lowering rescue is an easier option.

If you need to change over to DdRT, you don't need to get the WR off the line, just unclip the tether to keep it from getting engaged.
 
The size of trees that I typically climb is much smaller than I realized. I just started using my short climbing line much more since I tried it with the Pinto pulley. That rope is only 80 ft + /- (I think) and I bet I use it 75% of the time. We are coming into the winter months so we will start doing larger trees but still, my 150ft climbing line is almost always plenty.
Our work is just about even between prunings and removals. The two most common species around here are Green Ash and Norway Maple or maybe Silver Maple. That's what I typically do. I am mostly skeptical of the SRT thing when it comes to smaller trees. I can't tell you how many 18" Norway Maples that I maintenance pruned this last year.
 
Got it today! Thanks Sean. My wife now really thinks I am a geek. "Why is there a stick with rope on it in our mail box? Oh forget it, I don't really care." was her exact quote. How did you decide on the angles of the holes in the handle? I would have just drilled them straight through. Now I have to get out and do some climbing. The rest of the week is spar work so I probably wont get to use it this week but I will next week for sure. Thanks again.
 
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  • #17
I think Kevin B suggested 45 degrees. As you will see, there is a right side up. Adjust at will. As I mentioned, I fit it for 11.7mm poison ivy. If you climb on half inch, you will need to ream out one hole or the other, and I don't think it matters which one. You could even try a perpendicular hole one spot closer to the tether, if you want.
 
A customer took some pics of us working on Thursday. They were taken from inside the house but they show that I have been trying out the wooden rope wrench. I have to say that its getting better, but I am not sure if I will convert fully. I cant seem to get my hitch dialed in enough to make it smooth. I will keep trying....

DSC_0200.JPG DSC_0201.JPG
 
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  • #20
Good to hear you're getting some time on it. Hope you find a hitch and cord that are compatible with your line. What is the hiccup? Have you tried opening the rope hole if you're on 1/2"?
 
I think the hole is fine, I just can't find a hitch that works well. It's always too grabby for me. I can see the benefits and that's why I am sticking with it. I am working all sorts of VT combos. Next I am going to two wraps and maybe 4 braids.
 
Safety Blue, ArborMaster, and Bluemoon. Hitch cord is Ice. I guess I could try our KMIII but that's 200" long... A bit much for everyday climbing.
 
5/16ths Samson Ultra Tech Cord serves me better on those first three lines you mention. VT about 21-24" center of each Eye2Eye of a splice or double fishermans. I found ice tail tooooo grabby and it had a tendency to set too hard.
http://www.wesspur.com/prusiks/bulk-prusik-cord.html\

I have some handy if you want me to just send you some.

I weigh in at about 160-170 with gear on.
 
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  • #25
I'd buy a few bulk prussic cord lengths and try some different ones than Ice.

200' isn't that much if most of it stays in the bag at the base of the tree, allowing lots of rope for emergency lowering. Its more than you need, but it hangs out in the bag, so why not?
 
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