SouthSoundTree
Treehouser
If you have a spliced eye, the retrieval ball that is sold (some would say overpriced) for it, works great. Never stuck after that. Well worth $4. The screw link is more multi-purpose, and probably cheaper, though.
Friction Savers???
- Thread starter bonner1040
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Porkbrick
TreeHouser
i use a small key chain biner to retrieve my rr fs, usually i put the nose of the biner right through the end of the rope like gerry shows in working climber. works great, never had it snag.
bonner1040
Nick from Ohio
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #53
No sharp edges on that huh? Pretty nice looking from here... is there any kind of raied lip that the rope pressures against on the end of the connector?
We used sealtight every day in the tower biz...I dont know why i never thought of that...
We used sealtight every day in the tower biz...I dont know why i never thought of that...
sotc
Dormant hero!!
The ball thingy goes right through our small rings.
Gary, Just hook it in the rope eye or or to a throwline prussik on end of rope, screw the link closed, back it off a quarter turn and pull. If you need to lower it down, tie your throwline to the other end of the link then pull it down
Gary, Just hook it in the rope eye or or to a throwline prussik on end of rope, screw the link closed, back it off a quarter turn and pull. If you need to lower it down, tie your throwline to the other end of the link then pull it down
Bodean
Cali dreamer
Willie, I've had those links spin sideways on me for retrieval.
Had to climb right back up and get it a few times.
I use the two ring aluminum, red side is larger than the green side.
The little ball they sell works wonders, never failed so far.
Yes you can set it from the ground with a throwline, advantage is friction savings from the ground floor.
Had to climb right back up and get it a few times.
I use the two ring aluminum, red side is larger than the green side.
The little ball they sell works wonders, never failed so far.
Yes you can set it from the ground with a throwline, advantage is friction savings from the ground floor.
sotc
Dormant hero!!
Interesting, i've never had one turn. Do you run tight eyes?
sotc
Dormant hero!!
I'll snag a pic tomorrow
pantheraba
More biners!!!
Good exchange, guys..thanks for pitching in.
HolmenTree
Banned
I retreive my Buckingham RR FS with a simple square knot [overhand knot?] on a 1/2" Bluestreak and can't remember ever having it jam on the large ring. With a spliced eye end on my rope I tie my knot past the thicker section of the splice to make the knot as small as possible which leaves a tail. I think the tail actually helps the knot pass thru.
No wave in the rope or anything fancy just a firm tug.
You will have a problem if your rings are not together which I can then see the knot jamming.
So those ends just screw into the conduit? They won't work loose? Looks good! (And thanks for the pics, by the way!)
SouthSoundTree
Treehouser
The retrieval problem that I've had of an overhand jamming was always with the rings against the trunk, say over a whorl of branches on a doug-fir and around the trunk. If I have several large limbs that I can hang it over, with the rings away from the trunk, it works satisfactorily with the overhand.
Burnham
Woods walker
The problem with getting any retreival item or knot through the large ring when the ring is snugged tight against the trunk/spar is easy to remedy. The problem stems from the ring laying flat against the bole, so I clip a pear biner (or as Pete suggested to avoid any risk of loading the gate, you could use a pear screw-link) into the large ring and set the climb line through that. The ring lays flat, forcing the pear to stand proud at approx. 90 degrees to it...leaving a clear, open path for the knot or ball or link to slide right through.
Works a treat, and is SOP for me.
Works a treat, and is SOP for me.
Bodean
Cali dreamer
Willie, Generally at work all the spliced eyes are pretty big, in order to girth hitch them.
I'm wanting to redo my lines to a super tight eye and lose the girth hitch.
Sean, SST With whorled tie-ins with the two ring FS, I've gotten plenty stuck from the ground,
Until I started only hooking one or two limbs on the backside of the whorl, It situated the FS more at a diagonal.
Changed the tug vector.
Burn, I'm gonna check your way out next time.
I'm wanting to redo my lines to a super tight eye and lose the girth hitch.
Sean, SST With whorled tie-ins with the two ring FS, I've gotten plenty stuck from the ground,
Until I started only hooking one or two limbs on the backside of the whorl, It situated the FS more at a diagonal.
Changed the tug vector.
Burn, I'm gonna check your way out next time.
brendonv
Tree Hugger
I want to add a trick I learned from someone on the buzz. I'm building a ring and ring with two big rings, you then just carry a small ring, stick it in the middle, and it doesn't matter which side you pull your line out from. Pretty slick!
Burnham
Woods walker
That's an interesting way to do it, Brendon. Very smart.
Now, how long before I'd lose that little ring?
Now, how long before I'd lose that little ring?
FJR
Treehouser
Very cool idea. Now could you just attach the small ring via a prusik to the ring/ring friction saver? That way it is always attached and you don't have to worry about losing it?
Edit: Just figured out that it wouldn't be retrievable from either direction that way. That defeats the whole purpose.
Edit: Just figured out that it wouldn't be retrievable from either direction that way. That defeats the whole purpose.
FJR
Treehouser
Haha yup! Overall though, I think the idea of the small ring in the middle is pretty ingenious.
Burnham
Woods walker
Yup...that OUGHT to be enough to keep from mis-placing it .
.
sotc
Dormant hero!!
Just clip it to the back of your saddle everytime you pull it out.
sotc
Dormant hero!!
Though some guys take everything off their saddle everytime they put it away:roll:
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Well I keep a couple things on it...
pigwot
M's, Juniper's, Lowen’s, and Inge’s Grandpa
If you're making yourself some of the conduit type look for the Anaconda brand liquidtight flexible electrical metallic tubing.
It has a much smaller bend radius than other tubing, for smaller diameter hardwood TIPs.
The ferrules out of Thomas and Betts liquidtight fittings are what I use for the end caps.
The orange markings at the midpoint assist in placing it evenly in the TIP, and the number of rings of orange tape tell the length in feet.
I splice a bit of zing-it and girth-hitch it and tape over it at one end so I can hang it on my saddle if needed.
Also, when taking the rope out of the tree I will send a slip knot up to dislodge the FS while I still can have a hold on both ends of the rope (or tie on a throwline for real high TIPs).
If you shake the rope side-to-side quickly as the FS rockets down the line toward you, you can slow it, even stop it along the way.
http://www.whizbark.com/~pgwhiz/FrictionSavers_2.jpg
It has a much smaller bend radius than other tubing, for smaller diameter hardwood TIPs.
The ferrules out of Thomas and Betts liquidtight fittings are what I use for the end caps.
The orange markings at the midpoint assist in placing it evenly in the TIP, and the number of rings of orange tape tell the length in feet.
I splice a bit of zing-it and girth-hitch it and tape over it at one end so I can hang it on my saddle if needed.
Also, when taking the rope out of the tree I will send a slip knot up to dislodge the FS while I still can have a hold on both ends of the rope (or tie on a throwline for real high TIPs).
If you shake the rope side-to-side quickly as the FS rockets down the line toward you, you can slow it, even stop it along the way.
http://www.whizbark.com/~pgwhiz/FrictionSavers_2.jpg
pantheraba
More biners!!!
That slip knot trick sounds like a good one...thanks...I'll try that.
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