Cleaning chaps

[SeanKroll]

Any favorite cleaners?

Baking soda and vinegar are a suggested combo for normal fabrics to remove petroleum, but may not be good for chaps fibers.
Anyone know about this combo?

 

[lxskllr]

I don't clean. I don't see much point. It's outerwear, so it isn't against my skin, and they get funked up after the first session. I just skip the cleaning middleman.

If I wanted to clean, I'd probably use dish detergent.

 

[Tree09]

They use dawn on the animals harmed in oil spills.

 

[pantheraba]

Chaps need to be cleaned. The funk that builds up is detrimental to the protectivity of the fabric. Way back Steven AKA cursedvoyce...came across that idea here from several experienced folks. Grease build up in chaps is not good. Clean them.

 

[lxskllr]

How so? Chaps don't really work like plate armor. The outside doesn't even do anything aside from keep the insides in place. The insides are just a bunch of cut resistant strings that choke the clutch when grabbed by the chain. Someone skilled at sewing could probably make some out of retired climbline.

 

[stig]

They use dawn on the animals harmed in oil spills.

That painted the weirdest picture in my mind.

Poor lil' Sean, all covered in oil.

 

[Marc-Antoine]

How so? Chaps don't really work like plate armor. The outside doesn't even do anything aside from keep the insides in place. The insides are just a bunch of cut resistant strings that choke the clutch when grabbed by the chain. Someone skilled at sewing could probably make some out of retired climbline.

The principle is to have a mat of loose fibers in the internal protective layer(s). That doesn't work because they are cut resistant, but because they are loose. Hold tight the fibers and the chain goes through them barely slowing down. Let them go away with the cutters and they make a mess in the moving parts, jamming all the thing in an heart beat. When the fibers get dirty (grease, oil, salty sweat, mud, bark juice ...), they can't no longer slide easily along eachother and are less likely pulled out of the layer by the cutting teeth. So, many more are cut instead of flying away. At least, the locking of the chain takes more time and allows the teeths to dig deeper in the layers or even to go through them. Next step is your leg, as the inside layer and the pant don't exist for the chain.
Keeping the chaps or the chainsaw pants clean is a good advice.

 

[stig]

Exactly!

Very well put, Marc!

 

[lxskllr]

I might be willing to sacrifice my work chaps to prove it(or not). I say "might", cause holy hell, chaps have gone up the last couple years. I paid $85 a couple years ago, and they're now $127. They're semi retired, and have been thoroughly thrashed, Several shoegoo repairs where I melted them on exhaust, and some minor damage to the threads inside where I melted them, and a couple pulled fibers at the bottom from working in brush. Soaked in sweat, splashed in oil, and a fair amount of mix has been on them. Never washed. They still work good as brushcutting chaps, and as 'This will probably work for chainsaw protection' secondary chaps, but they've been retired as my primary chaps.

 

[Burnham]

John, read any chap manufacturer's info and you will see they recommend exactly what Marc has so well stated. This fact is long known and discussed here. Don't be "that guy".

 

[Burnham]

I apply hand cleaner to really bad spots and rub in in. I put a dollop of hand cleaner in the washer and wash my chaps with regular laundry detergent on a normal wash cycle. Hang to dry.

 

[lxskllr]

Not to be an ass(well, ok, maybe a little :^P ), the label on my labonvilles says to handwash. I'd also be reluctant to use handcleaner unless you were sure it didn't incorporate grit in the formula.

 

[Burnham]

I should have mentioned that re the grit. You are absolutely correct.

Then hand wash them, ...but definitely do wash them.

 

[stig]

Even simpler, get with the rest of the World and wear saw resistant pants instead of chaps.

 

[biggun]

And then chuck them in the washing amchine when they start to “hum” their own theme tune!

 

[stikine]

Check this publication out.

 

[Altissimus]

Even simpler, get with the rest of the World and wear saw resistant pants instead of chaps.

... yep , the pants are superior imo. Quality of the Chaps sold has gone downhill , probably still safe but the cheap ass webbing and buckles make them worthless (the old Tiltons were great now out of business , Labonville's now suck , and forget the "Husqvarna" badged chaps with extra full wraps and straps complete with sewn in reflective panel's , whatta joke as I returned them) ... the Sawyers pants are way more practical

 

[SeanKroll]

That painted the weirdest picture in my mind.

Poor lil' Sean, all covered in oil.

I'm oh so delicate!

 

[gf beranek]

What's all the fuss about? Just get new chaps when you need them.

 

[SeanKroll]

Never been cut. Tons of life in them.

Oily chaps are less protective.

 

[gf beranek]

Chaps are damn good PPE.

But a couple of times the straps got hung up on slash, and I couldn't leave the scene with it was time to leave the scene.

One such episode was very very scary.

Moral of the story is, "Make sure bug-out path is clear before having to leave the scene."

 

[lxskllr]

Full wraps would probably help with that, but better to have a good clean escape. I've been reluctant to get full wraps due to heat, and the aprons haven't given me much trouble, even busting brush with my brushcutter.

 

[Unemployed]

I never felt too safe with the snap-in inserts but they do make life easier in the brush. Can’t say I’ve worn them too much.

 

[Burnham]

Sounds like a good reason to consider saw pants. Nothing to snag.

 

[gf beranek]

True that, B, but even those have their own issues.

Mostly because, speaking for myself, saw pants get too hot. I couldn't cool off.

Though, in the snow country I might feel otherwise about that.