block out face

[sierratree]

looking for good pics of block out face examples, and how other folks are using them. been working on alot of large red fir hazard trees, 40" - 50+", and with a few of them we used a block out face, which did a great job of holding the stem to the stump. so would like to see how other folks are using it.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Isn't how you describe it, basically the same way that other people use it? I can't remember offhand, the book is at the shop, but 'Fundamantals' has a least one great picture of that type face that I can recall, quite possible a number of them.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Jerry's book is the only place I can think of that shows it.

 

[sierratree]

Yep it's in Jerry's book. Also would like to see some more in the woods examples........I'll be jacking over a 50"er tomorrow and will try to have someone take some pics.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Perhaps it needn't be said, but I believe that block out faces are often used with a snipe off the lip of the face. I believe it is often a integral factor with larger trees. Snipe wasn't mentioned, so I bring it up. Guys working in the west coast woods that Jerry shows, seem very adept at that method, some beautiful even faces are shown.

 

[sierratree]

yep............should have mentioned that..........an even snipe is part of it..........keeps the tree in line, "eases" it down, and from going astray.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Willie and Greg might be able to post some up.. Probably Nice Guy Dave as well.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

An even snipe should help to keep it going. An offset snipe can help kick the log over a bit to the side if you can't face it the way you might need due to rot, or if you need it to move one direction to clean a neighboring crown, then turn a bit for the lay. Not a science, more an art.

 

[Al Smith]

Somebody had an avatar picture using that method .I can't remember who .

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Greg... Klimbinfool or Climbinfool... He had to change his nick

 

[CurSedVoyce]

And I am not finding him on the member list with either spelling.. Wow.. That sux

 

[Mrs.B]

He had issues logging in so he gave up for a while.

 

[gf beranek]

Greg just hasn't had the time to post on internet forums lately, he told me so recently.

Greg does use the block-out face a lot in the larger trees he falls. The method eliminates many common mistakes in larger trees that a beginner is likely to make when they are learning. It does take more time but always proves more accurate in the long run. A great technique I picked up from the old fallers. Wisdom collectively passed down from generations of experience.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

 

[MasterBlaster]

Why does it work better than a conventional underbed? I always wondered that, ever since seeing Jerry's poster.

 

[stig]

Better fiber bendability.
I use it a lot myself, on pull trees.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Slightly elaborating..... Because no face apex abruptly closes to bust the fibers, the tree stays attached to the stump longer during it's falling route. I would think a thicker hinge via stopping cutting as the tree begins to fall over, would further add to that.

 

[Al Smith]

I would think just by looking at the physics of the cut it would have a tendency to toss the tree whatever the direction of the snipe was. I've never used that cut so that's just speculation .

 

[Jed]

sieratree: They say, "A picture's worth a thousand words." but all I've got's the thousand words. Really good threat, imho. Scratched my head on the same deal for years after seeing Gerry's book, but now I use it up here a great deal on our Black Cottonwoods, and Lombardy Poplars. I'm definitely really with Jer too on the "beginner" thing, which I certainly qualify as. For instance: I really tend to screw up the far corner of my diagonal cuts, and when I do, I just gap out the face to rectify things.

Here's what I've found: the gap simply distributes the compressed fibers in the hinge of a closing face, very much better than a "pinch" (face whose diagonal has no gap) thus greatly increasing the flexibility of the holding-wood, and increasing the duration of its directional capacity.

Hope that helps.

 

[murphy4trees]

one other advantage is it allows for a bit more range in the height of the back cut... to really dial in the function of the hinge we must understand how the height of the back cut will effect function. I've got some theories, but there isn't any science on the subject...

Another consideration and potential advantage of the block is that in order for an angled snipe or rolling snipe to have the most effect in turning a tree, the hinge has to hold a while after the tree contacts the snipe.. the height of the gap in the block face allows the hinge that capability. At least that's what makes sense to me as I've never used a block cut face..

 

[Jed]

Man, Why Not Daniel. Seems like guys like you and me love messing around with stuff just to see what'll happen.

Why the heck else would a guy launch the top of a White pine over a Privet Hedge with his pickup truck.

 

[thattreeguy]

ive blocked out only a few , then sniped the face
i think they slid off the stump nicely and stayed put better,
i did it on trees that were suck a pita to make a face in, yet plunging into it, and a top and bottom cut , plus a snipe were easier to do than make a perfect humboldt
but i knew where these trees were going, they had a pull line in them

 

[murphy4trees]

Man, Why Not Daniel. Seems like guys like you and me love messing around with stuff just to see what'll happen.

Why the heck else would a guy launch the top of a White pine over a Privet Hedge with his pickup truck.

alright you talked me into it..
next chance I get ... block face with a rolling snipe!

 

[Cold Logging]

I use a block face for pulling heavy leaners directly opposite their lean.

 

[gf beranek]

For back leaners put a big smile in them.