Bill's Husky 372

You mean the marks on the magnets ? It's entirely possible it could have sucked up some dirt or even some metal shavings .For that matter the coil could have been set up too tight at one time or another .

Hell I wouldn't worry about it .Install a new seal,fix the oiler and call it a day .That thing could run for years .
 
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  • #52
Al, I'm not splitting the case. I'd rather junk the saw first, or let somebody else mess with it. If I can be reasonably sure the bearings are ok then I'd be willing to slap a new seal on the crank but that would be the extent of it. I can't see putting 8-10 hours of shop time plus parts into a $300 saw.
 
If you can't detect any play with some prying, I'd say the bearings are fine.
 
I don't blame you for that .It's usually the clutch side seal and bearing that goes bad any way .

I've found as general rule the few bad bearings I've encountered were caused by dust ingestion that formed basically the same thing as petrolium coke .Pyrolited oil which carbonizes and chews the bearings up .It's that black stuff you might find in the saws' crankcase if you lift the cylinder .
 
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  • #55
The clean top end is indicating that there hasn't been dirt ingestion and it looks like Bill is running synthetic oil, so I'm hoping it is simply a melted seal due to the oiler issue. The broken oiler would also indicate the saw was dropped, so that corresponds with Erik's suggestion concerning the origin of the scuff marks on the flywheel.

I'm beginning to feel better about just throwing a new seal in it and hoping it lasts more than a few weeks. :thumbup:
I'll see if chainsawr has the parts, unless Bill would prefer me getting them somewhere else? I think a couple other places were suggested earlier in the thread so I'll scroll back and look.
 
I can only think of two places that might have the seal Brian. Cutter's choice or alhborn. I'm not picky as long as its the right seal. Oh and yeah ,nothing but stihl white bottle synthetic oil goes into m saws period.
 
I have scuffed flywheels from coil getting loose at one time.

OEM case splitter is $52-$79 I dont have one, on the list for my bad crankcases. You can do it without.
 
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  • #60
I'm fairly confident I've got a list of everything I'll need. I just got in from replacing the kill switch wire and going over the saw once more. I have the crank seal kit, oil pump driver and the missing bushing for the chain brake handle. This order is $20 plus shipping and you had $30 out of my last order.

So far we've spent the following:
$20 used oil pump
$7 carb kit
$3.50 kill switch wire
This order is:
$5 brake handle bushing
$7 crank seals
$7.50 oil pump drive
$7 shipping
 
Do any of your personal 372s have any flywheel scuffing? If you can't move the crank up and down, it sounds tight to me. You'll have the oiler out anyway, so no biggie to pop the seal in. I use a thin sheet of plastic wrapped around the crank with some mix oil on it to slide the seal on. I think that is a trick I got from Al. If you want to pull the flywheel off, set the saw on the ground and put a prick punch in the center hole on the crank and whack it hard with a heavy hammer. Don't clamp the saw, it needs to be able to move around.
 
NEVER pull a flywheel that way; it's a great way to bend the wrist pin.
 
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  • #66
I have a dead blow hammer and a three leg claw style gear puller. A little PB Blaster on the crankshaft and I think we're in business. 8)
 
I have a couple of these pullers, I can't find a source though. I got mine at Crown products a hydraulic wholesaler, but when you need one, you need one!
 

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  • #68
Thanks for the picture, Andy. I went digging in the kitchen utensil drawer and found an old wine bottle corkscrew. :D
 
That's a cork screw packing puller .They are used for removing the stem packings on large valves,hydraulic cylinders etc .I'm pretty sure the McMaster -Carr has them .

I just punch a hole in the seal with a small finish nail,prick punch or ice pick ,depending on which I find first .Then screw about one thread of a drywall screw in the seal and jerk it out with a pair of pliers .Oil the snot out of the new seal and tap it back in ,done .A deep well socket works well for a seal driver .

Now on a flywheel some times it helps if you can apply some heat to the hub prior to using a puller .Not so much on mid range saws but the larger ones .I use an electric heat gun but I suppose a hair drier would work .I've thumped them off but prefer to use some type of puller if possible .
 
Oh say,in looking at the IPL it appears the flywheel side of the crank on that model has a square shoulder .I had mention that earlier .As such it's helpfull to use a small plastic tube or something to kind of "shoe spoon" the seal in place so as not to damage the center portion of the seal going over the crankshaft .
 
NeTree said:
NEVER pull a flywheel that way; it's a great way to bend the wrist pin.
Click to expand...

If you have the saw suspended by the flywheel, and punch the crank with moderate force (It usually is just a tap), nothing can happen.
If you don't have it suspended you can do all kinds of bad things.

Making a puller is not hard. A bar and washers will do fine. Usually not much power needed if applied correct.
 
This is some info posted on the chainsaw repair site.

Flywheel removal tool
(coarse thread)
For all models
Part. No. 504 91 08-07

Flywheel removal tool
(fine thread)
For all models
Part. No. 502 51 94-01

This is the husky tool for flywheel removal. There is 2 of them and cost under $10 a piece.

(Flywheel removal using Husqvarna "knocker" service tool)

What keeps this tool from messing up threads and exactly how does it work? Does it have something inside to take up shock to threads?

I usually just put the nut on 3/4 on and tap till fly breaks loose. Yesterday I had a impossible fly to break loose. So when I went to remove nut it removed the threads on the crank end and also stripped out the threads inside the fly nut.

So I broke out my mini 3 jaw and pulled fly right off.

Put new flywheel and new nut back on and all was good to go with a buggered up crank end. :-[

"knocker" bottoms out on the end of the crank. It does not exert force on the threads, actually protects them. Pullers work also but there isn't always clearance to get the jaw in place. I used an alum flywheel punch on the larger older cranks.


<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/jDDtDYUkNkQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


Homemade crankcase splitter.

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/mT0oJ-0s758" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>



OEM husqvarna splitter

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/2G-vapNwntw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
I looked up a corkscrew packing puller at Mc Master Carr .Type in part number 9756k12 on the search bar of the site .The tool with a corkscrew tip is a tad over 7 bucks .A screw head tip is around $4.60
 
Brian, have the parts come in yet? I'm gonna be out your way tomorrow all day.I'll holler at you late afternoon/ early evening so I can get up with you and pay you for parts and labor.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #75
Not yet, should be here tomorrow. I'll be working near Lee Rd and 17-92 all day, near Don Reid Ford. No sweat on the dollars yet, I want to get it running first. :D
 
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