Any Rope Wrench or Hitch Hiker users here?

[DMc]

... when I first make up my hitch it can be really resistant to tending easily....Then I like to try to sit in it really hard, ....

This is the way to properly set the short HH hitch. When I first tie mine it will barely move on the climbing line but then I load it hard by bouncing on it a few times, taking up slack and doing it again. This not only tests my suspension point it stabilizes the hitch so it needs no further adjusting during the climb and will tend slack with just the lightest touch.

 

[Tim_B.]

Dave, thanks for this confirmation of my experience. In my earlier post I left out the part about needing to tend slack each time after loading it up. It's good that you emphasized that part of the process. The idea that it "stabilizes" the hitch had not occurred to me, but now that I've read the words, I realize that it is true. Thanks for your post.

Tim

 

[Altissimus]

...my hitch once tied , dressed, and set to sweet stays on my line. Was wasting too much time retying and getting it dialed. There It Is ! all adjusted and shit , waiting and ready every climb. (Like that line in the Pulp Fiction about messing with the levels on a Black Man's stereo).... Got it set exactly how I like it....

 

[Tim_B.]

Hey, Altissimus! Thanks for your post! I'm sure I've read about folks that leave their Hitch Hikers on their climbing lines before, but thanks for refreshing my memory. Your practice combined with the techniques outlined by Porkbrick in the link I'm about to leave could add up to significant time savings.

https://www.masterblasterhome.com/s...or-quick-links&p=733206&viewfull=1#post733206

I guess the only reasons I would have for not doing it are a desire to stay in practice at making up my hitches/assembling my climbing system components, and the fact that I'll need to rethink the way I normally pull my climb lines into and out of the tree. The time savings would probably make it all worth it, however.

Thanks for posting.

Tim

 

[SouthSoundTree-]

Mine stays on. If it starts to creeeep, as everything really tightens up, I live with it for a while, then tighten it a bit, or remove, inspect, and re-tie.

 

[Raj]

I've had consistent results tying the hitch, just have to load it up once, may be twice and it's been good to go to work.

 

[SouthSoundTree-]

I should clarify, this might be an adjustment once a month or less.

 

[PCTREE]

Only time I untie is to change the hitch cord...........

 

[Merle Nelson]

Hmm...I'll have to try that.

 

[Climbhigh]

What rope and hitch cord combo tends the best . Thanks

 

[Limbrat]

That's a wide door you just opened. I'm running Sterling Tendril and Armor Prus at the moment and it works fine but the key is getting your hitch dialed in. The looser the hitch, the easier it tends but the greater chance it will slip when weighted.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Different for each climber. Often based on a desired feel and performance. Too broad a question you will have to eventually answer for yourself by trying different climb lines and cordage.
I swing on Ultra Tech 5/16ths
I use a few different lines with it. Works fine. Unless I use an All Gear line that was way slick out of the box and way fuzzy after break in.
Unless I used a new cord of Ultra Tech with it, but then most would hate the result in that you have to baby sit the hitch a bit.
When that particular climb line (1/2") was new, it was better with Bee Line due to its slick nature.

 

[Raj]

Vortex with the stock beeline, or cherrybomb with 8mm armorprus or 8mm mammut prusik cord.

 

[Tim_B.]

Hey, Peter! I don't think I've ever even heard of Mammut prusik cord. I was wondering if you might be able to provide a link? My first climb line I ever purchased was Mammut. Really nice stuff.

Tim

 

[Raj]

I purchased it from Mountain Equipment Co-op, up here. Has a stiff feel to it yet natural.

http://www.mec.ca/product/0403-014/...cord/?No=40&h=10+50001+50635&f=10+50001+50635

 

[Climbhigh]

Thank you for the responses. Definitely a vague question, I thought about that after I posted it.I am looking forward to trying some of your suggestions. My HH2 should be In early next week. The RW and RR are great tools but it always feels like I have to keep one eye on them when working in a tight spot. Looks like the HH would win in a bar fight.

 

[SouthSoundTree-]

What ropes do you currently have, Climbhigh. Maybe some knows a good combo. What do you weigh? Pitchy much?

 

[Tim_B.]

I purchased it from Mountain Equipment Co-op, up here. Has a stiff feel to it yet natural.

http://www.mec.ca/product/0403-014/...cord/?No=40&h=10+50001+50635&f=10+50001+50635[/QUOT

Thanks for that answer, Peter. I sometimes cannot tell by what I read about a particular cordage whether it is intended for use as a climber's friction hitch or not. I guess I expect them to say so in the ad copy for the stuff. Sometimes with friction cord they'll mention a temperature rating.

Thanks again for the link.

Tim

 

[Climbhigh]

What ropes do you currently have, Climbhigh. Maybe some knows a good combo. What do you weigh? Pitchy much?

Kernmaster, Tendril, Velocity,Yale 11.7, Vector 11mm are what I have on hand. Most are well used; broke in. Seems like most people Tie the same Hitch with the HH so that would make things less complicated, looks like just dialing in the right length ? Im 200# geared up without saw. Pitchy,yes! Spruce trees are my nemesis.

 

[Climbhigh]

Just a couple of observations and a question about the HH; when using the tending loop made from cordage that I ordered with the HH it was fat enough that it was pushing up against the stopper knotts and forcing the dogbone into the rope when pulling up slack from a limb walk.Also when tending with my lanyard while ropewalking it seamed to pull the lower carbiner more into the spine that straight up making tending difficult. I ended up making a longer tending loop out of stainless wire about 2 1/2" long ,this made tending twice as easy but in reading through all the posts in This thread I am still falling short of that" smooth as glass tending "
so my question: is it advisable to deviate from the recomended 6 wraps and if so, what have you guys found that works best for you? Thanks

 

[Oldmilltreecare]

Just a couple of observations and a question about the HH; when using the tending loop made from cordage that I ordered with the HH it was fat enough that it was pushing up against the stopper knotts and forcing the dogbone into the rope when pulling up slack from a limb walk.Also when tending with my lanyard while ropewalking it seamed to pull the lower carbiner more into the spine that straight up making tending difficult. I ended up making a longer tending loop out of stainless wire about 2 1/2" long ,this made tending twice as easy but in reading through all the posts in This thread I am still falling short of that" smooth as glass tending "
so my question: is it advisable to deviate from the recomended 6 wraps and if so, what have you guys found that works best for you? Thanks

Be VERY careful with a longer tending loop. It can sit on top of the HH, holding the dog bone down when you sit in the harness thus allowing you to fall.

I gave up with a tending loop a long time ago when I discovered that clipping my chest ascender into the harness bridge ring kept everything in line perfectly and pushes the HH up the rope perfectly.

It did all require a little bit of technique refinement, mainly keeping my body upright and concentrating on what I was doing. Then it all just becomes second nature.

I hope this helps.

 

[Raj]

This is what I find works best for me, 200lbs, loaded up.

 

[SouthSoundTree-]

6 wraps is useful. It's not the one and only way. A lot has to do with hitch length.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

And cord diameter. I use a 5/16ths cordage instead of the 3/8ths

 

[Limbrat]

A lot has to do with hitch length.

Which equates to how tight you make your turns and how much slack there is in your stopper knot. Five turns with my set up right now works well for me (185 + gear).