Burnham
Woods walker
This was another of the little gems I took down today. This sort of falling is sure to keep you on your toes. Even though the size is right smallish, this was a somewhat risky fell.
Dead Doug fir, only 15 inch dbh. Stone dead, broken off by wind about 20 feet up, with the top still loosely attached and hung in another tree. Just about any point in the felling procedure might weaken the tree enough to let the top drop down on the sawyer.
I put in a conventional face, 90 degrees to the direction the top was tipped. There was a smidge of favorable head lean in the lower portion to that side.
I was pretty sure that when I back cut it, it would go on it's own...but noooo. It stood proud when I came up to desired hinge thickness. I had two choices then.
I could simply place a wedge and hope I could tip it...but the tree was small enough diameter that I might have run out of room for the wedge before I got enough lift. Plus, banging on a wedge could have cause the top to fall clear, and I would have been pretty tight in there with my axe.
Or I could gut the hinge from the rear, which would give me depth for the wedge, but might weaken the hinge enough to allow the tree to commit on it's own.
I chose the latter, gutting it from the rear...being careful not to punch any deeper out the front of the hinge than I could manage. If the tree commits when you have your bar well out into the face, you most likely have just bought a new bar, and possibly a new saw as well.
All through the process, I think I had one and a half eyes on the top and half an eye on the cutting. Being able to perform these cuts largely from muscle memory can be a good thing at times
.
Just as I bored through, the tree did commit, and nothing fell on me as it went over. A good outcome.
Dead Doug fir, only 15 inch dbh. Stone dead, broken off by wind about 20 feet up, with the top still loosely attached and hung in another tree. Just about any point in the felling procedure might weaken the tree enough to let the top drop down on the sawyer.
I put in a conventional face, 90 degrees to the direction the top was tipped. There was a smidge of favorable head lean in the lower portion to that side.
I was pretty sure that when I back cut it, it would go on it's own...but noooo. It stood proud when I came up to desired hinge thickness. I had two choices then.
I could simply place a wedge and hope I could tip it...but the tree was small enough diameter that I might have run out of room for the wedge before I got enough lift. Plus, banging on a wedge could have cause the top to fall clear, and I would have been pretty tight in there with my axe.
Or I could gut the hinge from the rear, which would give me depth for the wedge, but might weaken the hinge enough to allow the tree to commit on it's own.
I chose the latter, gutting it from the rear...being careful not to punch any deeper out the front of the hinge than I could manage. If the tree commits when you have your bar well out into the face, you most likely have just bought a new bar, and possibly a new saw as well.
All through the process, I think I had one and a half eyes on the top and half an eye on the cutting. Being able to perform these cuts largely from muscle memory can be a good thing at times

Just as I bored through, the tree did commit, and nothing fell on me as it went over. A good outcome.
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