201t: Cheaper Plastic???

[stig]

Al, all the stratified scavenge engine saws that I have need to warm up before running proper.
Irritating at first, but you get used to it fast.

 

[Marc-Antoine]

What happens with those engines if we close the fresh air port ?

 

[Al Smith]

It would not run I imagine .The first portion of the transfer gets sucked in the air chute thing and goes through a window in the side of the piston from what I understand .It gets deposited in the forward portion of the crankcase some how and is first forced into the cylinder at the very first portion of the transfer cycle to purge the spent power charge exhaust residue .Followed by that the actual fuel and air charge enters the cylinder which goes through the carberator .

At least that's my understanding of how the thing works .If I'm correct it would make sense if you omitted the blow down being the first 20 or so degrees of rotation by eliminating the fresh air it would not run well if it would run at all .

 

[Al Smith]

Al, all the stratified scavenge engine saws that I have need to warm up before running proper.
Irritating at first, but you get used to it fast.

Yea I found that out on the 441 model .I think the problem might be is that small little trim saws usually run for about 15 seconds in the course of their intended usage .Where as a 441 or perhaps the new not yet running properly 661 might go at it for several minutes depending on the usage .As such they as oppossed to the 201T would have plenty of time to warm up .

You know those little trim saws might go from idle to wide open several hundred times in the course of a days work not to mention how many times they get shut off and restarted .It would make sense they don't have enough time to warm up .

 

[stig]

Which is why it would probably be a good idea to let them idle instead of shutting them off between cuts.

 

[Al Smith]

Perhaps some would do that .I would think however a climber working a tree would shut it off until he or she got into position .They do a lot of moving around stripping out a tree .

As a logger I'd imagine you drop the tree .Limb it out and cut it into logs .You may just set the brake or not when moving about or you might shut it down .Never the less it gets ran for longer intervals .

Probabley 95 percent of the stuff I do is firewood so it's down with the tree then every 16 inchs until it's all cut up .Tank full after tank full .If that won't heat up a saw I don't know what will .Well a stump cut of course but that's a different matter .

 

[Jed]

Yeah Butch: before I used the disgusting pig, I'll confess that I really admired the twist-off air cleaner cover deal, cause you don't have to hunt down one of your 20 bar wrenches that you can't find. Just wait: you're gonna bump off the cover pretty soon up in the tree, and you'll be miffed. The next time you'll be ticked. The next time, you'll break the chintzy black plastic that holds the weird spiral screw on, and you'll be super pissed. Works every time.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Lordy! Such a gloomy Gus!

 

[Jed]

Yeah, ya think?

 

[RopeArmour]

been atleast a yr or more now that I dropped mine out of tree 3o' or more and only smashed the handle.
Epoxied that puppy up and used it for a month or so and then finally just replaced the the handle assembly.
Still running great seeems to really like cutting in the freezing.
Its a damn tough lil saw. I betcha you if you take the time to break it in as per the stihl recomendos it is decent enough.
I work the 201 upto 14"
I won't mess around with a 36 or 44
much prefer the 660 roar!

 

[Jed]

Funny you say that RopeArmour: my setup's the exact same right now--just my 201 and my 660. Finally killed my 44.

But still... you gotta' know... I actually cycled two tanks of saw gas through that pig a idyl so as to break it in. My (Brad Sneller's) mods are the only thing that saved it--and they are extensive.

 

[Steve Mack]

I actually cycled two tanks of saw gas through that pig a idyl so as to break it in.

Maybe that's the problem. Not sure about the 201 but in the 540 Husky thread you have to run them at high revs for a while straight off, and I remember Brian saying once the only 200 he had that was a bit gutless wasn't run at high revs first off.

 

[Jed]

Interesting theory.

 

[Magnus]

I have yet to see a saw that needs to be broken in. Just run them as you rented them with two exceptions.
Don't do high revs without load a lot and don't run it hot. Ever, that applies for all saws any age, brand or model.

 

[RopeArmour]

The way I interpert it, is not to run it at full to high throttle when not in load for the first three tankfulls. Magnus is it ok to pulse the throttle, just short burst say for free the bar of debris and clear the oiler etc/

 

[Al Smith]

The old saying is run the thing like you stole it or flog it like a rented mule .

The only thing I do after a rebuild is richen them up a tad for a few tanks .After that lean em out and drop the reins .

 

[Magnus]

The way I interpert it, is not to run it at full to high throttle when not in load for the first three tankfulls. Magnus is it ok to pulse the throttle, just short burst say for free the bar of debris and clear the oiler etc/

Yes, I see no harm in reving them. Going up and down in rpm is not the thing that damage it is the time it is in top rpm and held there.

Flipping throttle is a good thing on any saw. After a couple heavy cuts frlipping throttle cool them of, Idle make them hotter for a bit after.
No rpm=No airflow.
No load=Not so much heat development.

 

[Kmatrees]

I also broke that chinsy plastic piece. Left the saw on roof of bucket to pull forward about 10'. Saw it fall to the blacktop... oopz! Ive dropped 200sfrom way up and always ok. Never dropped one from high up and had one land on asphalt, always grass or mulch.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

 

[gf beranek]

Lost a saw once when the snap un-clipped. Lost another when the muffler melted the tether rope, and then I tossed one because it wouldn't start. That felt good.

 

[Jed]

Don't tempt me Jer... I can't afford it.

 

[Jed]

Alright, so here's the latest: I'm running on a brand new handle, the lanyard takes another small swing and now the new handle's busted. I've literally got fabric soaked in J.B. Weld holding the "new" handle back together.

Exactly one month later, our pruning foreman Toney, cut a very small limb out of some little tree from the ground with a pole-saw; the butt landed on the handle of his 201, and the piece of trash snapped completely in half.

Man these saws suck. Anyone missing their old 200t yet? Oh, and the stupid muffler plates fall of of these pigs too. Anyone else out there noticing this stuff yet?

 

[RopeArmour]

JB weld is my friend.
mine is still running great after I dropped it a yr ago or more
from 3o plus ft?

Thanks Magnus good info as always Champ

 

[treebilly]

Do you mean that damn heat shield? I never had a problem with that till I read about it on another site. Two of them lost those shields in the next week. Dropped one off to be fixed and ran the other. Melted through the bottom of the saw and then found out that they replaced the whole damn casing on the other one at the tune of $300 bucks. Boss was none to happy about that. The erratic idling seemed to be fixed by a good cleaning. Saw has potential, just needs some anti-EPA tuning. I gotta pair of 200's and one 020 that I own and only break out for the really challenging jobs that require a more responsive saw

 

[Jed]

Yeah, the heat shield. I figured that I had only lost mine, because of my muffler mod, till Toney's bone-stock pig dropped his. He only really prunes, and maybe runs his saw through about a third of the wood that a removal arb would.

Probably the heat shield's nothing to really worry about other than some melted-looking plastic on the bottom. Too many other things to worry about with a 201.