201t / 210tc face off

Mick!

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Bear in mind there was a little bit of operator fluctuation, and my nephew got the upgraded 201 and the stock 201 mixed up in the vid.
Also it jams at the end of one of them, but it wouldn’t have affected the result.
All brand new chains.
I was surprised how much better the TC was.
 
You are very good at presenting this kind of information, Mick.
 
“Flow enhancements” and picco chain will put ya under 10sec np ... I’m not Maneuvering around in the trees so do not know if “speed” is as much a factor as it is on the ground
 
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Speed is always handy, but stock(ish) saws with a sharp chain are enough for me.
 
And the log was getting larger as more was cut. Those are some thick cookies, someday you'll get the hang of it :)

I heard there are many versions of the 201t, maybe 4 or so. I think the 201tc may have gotten a new piston, cylinder and flywheel or ignition not too long ago.
 
Speed is always handy, but stock(ish) saws with a sharp chain are enough for me.
... Your production will go through the roof with one of these ... a 660 might be a tad cumbersome up in the tree but it’s been done before 😉
 
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Yeah, I never said it was a scientific thing, but I’m no tuner/saw tester.

I had one of the first (2013), crap ones, that benefited from the flywheel up grade.
The second generation (2014) was a good saw, super reliable.
Then I bought the TC which has had a replacement ‘bobin’ (ignition unit in English I think) which is the best, good power right through the range, seems unspectacular but v. quick.
 
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... you’re production will go through the roof with one of these ... a 660 might be a tad cumbersome up in the tree but it’s been done before 😉



No, it won’t make a jot of difference to my production, I’m not a logger.
 
Yah the ignition timing on those particular units gave lackluster performance ... Fortunately there is an easy/cheap fix which involves removing the flywheel and grinding/filing the key ... this will advance the timing on the saw and give satisfactory performance ... easy peasy to do with simple tools ... a video By Mitch Weber which shows the process ...
 
... Your production will go through the roof with one of these ... a 660 might be a tad cumbersome up in the tree but it’s been done before 😉


Yep,yep and yep.................let us all swap our tophandle saws out for large felling saws when we climb.
It'll up our production ever so much.

Frankie, I believe the award for the stupidest post in the year of the plague 2020 goes to you.
 
The most recent 201t I heard doesn't need any timing advance, though I haven't experimented with that. The new ignition supposedly gives it all the timing that is useful, and the new piston is a bit weird from what they were. I think mine is the model just behind those most recent upgrades. I got a 7t sprocket for when I modify it, they end up with more torque than you can use on a 16" bar with a 6t spur.

I just don't get why the air filter has to be different between the 201t and tc
 
The 660 does come up in the tree time to time, even the 3120xp. It's almost aways a pain, not because of the saw itself, but because of the seize and the weight of the logs/ blocks of wood to deal with aloft. Not enough training/technique here.

I have to look in my 201T. I found it sluggish now.
 
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I just don't get why the air filter has to be different between the 201t and tc
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So folks have to buy new spare parts I guess.
 
My 362 kinda kicked my ass when I was taking down the locust. Haul the saw up from the saddle, pull it over(mind the oak pressing against your back, and all it's limbs!), cut straight through at firewood length. When the round drops on the bar, shut saw off, tip round, remove saw, and replace on saddle. Push round off stem, take a step or two down, repeat.

I might be able to that all day with a few months of doing it every day, but I couldn't even finish that single job in one go. Was starting to get sloppy/clumsy.
 
I was going small cause it was a small drop zone, and concrete below. I also figured it was gonna be firewood anyway, so might as well cut it that length. I underestimated the effort it would take to do that. I might have been able to bump it to 2x firewood length, but it would have been pretty close to cracking concrete I think. Not that my concrete's any prize. It's already full of cracks, but no point in making more.
 
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Long winded ring downs are all about planning, reducing the times you lift the saw.
Sometimes you can cut two rings at a time then push them both off.
 
My 362 kinda kicked my ass when I was taking down the locust. Haul the saw up from the saddle, pull it over(mind the oak pressing against your back, and all it's limbs!), cut straight through at firewood length. When the round drops on the bar, shut saw off, tip round, remove saw, and replace on saddle. Push round off stem, take a step or two down, repeat.

I might be able to that all day with a few months of doing it every day, but I couldn't even finish that single job in one go. Was starting to get sloppy/clumsy.
A well ported 241c with an 18” bar will keep up with a stock 362 np ... and weighs 9.9lbs (less after machining/port work) ... Nice fuel efficient Saws when stock - little rippers with picco chain and port work ... my favorite for limbing and bucking 14” and under timber
 
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