201t: Cheaper Plastic???

Jed

TreeHouser
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Snoqualmie, WA
Just doing my part to hate on the 201 (I know, I know--just what the world needs) a little bit more, but perhaps from a bit of a different angle.

By now, I'm guessing that most of you full-time arbos are figuring out that the plastic on these things suck.

Mine is exactly six months old. After month four, the plastic on the top handle cracked, two weeks later the entire handle broke and had to be replaced. Not cheap. Month five: the clutch cover starts cracking apart, :X and also at the area where the lanyard loop attaches.

Two days ago was the last straw though, and the reason for this entire rant. My saw took a slight swing on my lanyard into the trunk--I say slight, and I mean slight. The entire air-cleaner assembly busted off and fell to the stinking ground. You would not believe what chintzy plastic the entire assembly is attached to. My filter is now held on by bailing-wire. Seriously.

My only real point is that this stuff NEVER happened with any of my 200t's so.... What's up?
 
I was thinking to say it might have something to do with the depleting ozone layer. UV degrades plastic and a lot of other things. Still a little early for that, probably. It can't hurt to keep your saw in the shade when not in use.
 
I know the value of 200's in decent shape ain't droppin!

Mine's a Frankenstein collection of old parts that still kicks butt!
 

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People either like them or they hate them,no middle ground it seems . The one Tom bought get banished to the shelf .He acquired a couple low hour 200's recently which do get used .
 
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O.k. Al, but I guess I went from love (after doing all of the Brad Sneller mod-work myself) to hating real, real quick. I hated the performance of that bone-stock pig until I did all the necessary mods--oh, and the timing advance sucked. However, after the mods, I fell in love real quick. WAY more torque than the 200. But now I'm just ticked. The stinking thing is falling apart.

Anybody try the 540 yet???
 
I have a couple of 201s and I nave not noticed any real lowering in build quality compared to its antecedents.
Just bought a 540 (don't know why, maybe I need a hobby!) I'm going back to the UK for a week, then it goes to work.
 
I've had the 201 for about a year now. I use it hard every day doing mostly removals. I have been happy with it so far. it is not falling apart on me by any means and I have slammed it against trees many times. my only problem with it was that it was spinning the chain fast enough at idle to cut 2 inch limbs. this was just for a short time. I had it adjusted twice over the course of the year and it seems fine. every now and then it does it again but not for long. that being said I really wanna check out the 540
 
Same here with the erratic idling. Dealer adjusted it and it worked fine so I had it modded and it just started doing it again on Friday.
 
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Yes, thanks; forgot to mention that mine also idles erratically. However, my groundman's 201 doesn't. (idyll erratically) Then again, his has fewer mods. I might have got my flywheel timing advance slightly wrong. Not much though.
 
I see Bradley David about 2-3 times a year but I've never seen the infamous superduper 201 yet for some reason .

Quite frankly I haven't a clue what to do with one .No doubt sooner or later I'll get my hot little hands on one and a 441 and see if I can figure the danged things out .
 
I just had a brain fart on this ,no kidding .That problem as I see it if it's that simple is the damned things use that cold induced air for the first portion of the transfer .Obviously it cools the cylinder ,doesn't react well .

What would happen if somehow the induced air were warmed by the heat of the exhaust ,like passing an induction tube through or around the muffler .I wonder if anyone has ever tried it .
 
More on this and it's old technoligy and simple as falling off a log .The older Caterpillars were relatively low compression and used a prechamber type of cylinder head .To assure the induction air on start up was warm enough the starting engine exhaust was directed through the intake manifold thus warming the air .In other words it was a heat exchanger type situation .
 
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Well Al: As far as I'm concerned--you're a genius. But not all of us are as technically minded as you. Man, I'd pay you to try it to mine. Certainly can't hurt the loathsome pig.

Oh and Butch: you're just saying that yours runs well because you're friends with Gerry (Who wouldn't be if he could?) who is sponsored by Stihl. As for that Mark Chisholm feller: shame on you sir! A dirty, discussing, filthy, crying shame. That pig sucks and you know it. Ahhhh, just joking'.... I'da probably said the same thing if they'da given me a brand new saw! :lol:
 
I'm telling ya, It runs just fine and that's pulling a 16". And I love how you don't need a tool to open then filter cover. Even the funky caps seem to seal better.
 
There's no way that anyone that ran a properly tuned 200 for years on end could think that their 201 is a star performer. Ive run several of these things now and I just laugh even harder at Stihl as a company. "0" series saws were great, otherwise, no thank you.
 
Butch was your 200t surely up to snuff brother? Im shocked that your 201 gives you that level of performance. Especially with a 16" bar. Which by the way I think all 200t's should wear. I scored a 200T today with one year of use on it for $300.
 
My 201 sucks. I'm not buying another. Just the way it came down for me. Dud or whatever, mine in no shape or form compares to any of my 200's. I'd gladly trade it for a good running 200.
 
I just had a brain fart on this ,no kidding .That problem as I see it if it's that simple is the damned things use that cold induced air for the first portion of the transfer .Obviously it cools the cylinder ,doesn't react well .

What would happen if somehow the induced air were warmed by the heat of the exhaust ,like passing an induction tube through or around the muffler .I wonder if anyone has ever tried it .

Al, is the idea of cooling the combustion process simply to reduce the oxides of nitrogen or is there another reason?
 
I just had a brain fart on this ,no kidding .That problem as I see it if it's that simple is the damned things use that cold induced air for the first portion of the transfer .Obviously it cools the cylinder ,doesn't react well .

What would happen if somehow the induced air were warmed by the heat of the exhaust ,like passing an induction tube through or around the muffler .I wonder if anyone has ever tried it .

This is possible if you like to try. Just open winter lid up and it gets hot air from engine in to air filter area. Works well when it is really cold. Cooks the saw when it is warm.
 
Al, is the idea of cooling the combustion process simply to reduce the oxides of nitrogen or is there another reason?

As I understand it the reason the charge of pure air is used is to lessen the amount of fuel enhanced mixture which under normal 2 cycle design would be blown out the exhaust .

Think about it .Normally the air/fuel mixture would be sucked in through the crankcase and the heat of combustion would transfer to the mixture .Upon the initial portion of the transfer cycle a portion would be expelled but it would be warmer air thus not lowering the cylinder heat as much as if it were outside air like the 201 design uses .

I can't comment much about a 201T because I've never ran one .I can however attest about a 441 which I find runs better after a few cuts to warm the engine and this is what I base my theory on .

I might add from info I have heard Stihl is working on the problem .What they are doing about it I have no idea.
 
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