200T no one can fix local

Willie,
I went out and took a picture of a junk 200T so you could see the oiler pump. It's fairly self explanitory I think.
 
Don't the Stihls come with a piston stop new? I got some sort of funky plastic doohinckus with mine. I guess I could go get the manual out, but since we have experts here...:)

Al, I think I'll give it one more try, I like the saw that much.;)
 
In the bush to spin my clutch off I'd either use a long handled bar wrench and hit it with the bar against the compression stroke counterclockwise or eventually I got a dummy plug to use. I can't beleive y'all don't know how to take your clutch off? How did you change your sprocket on the old husky's?


Brian this thread has been awesome. Your info is invaluable thanks for sharing.
 
A piece of starter rope works well for a piston stop also .Just make sure you don't get it snagged in the ports .

Often times those clutchs get a little tough to take off . If you don't have an impact wrench block the piston then use a box end wrench and rap it smartly with a hammer to break the clutch loose .

When you put it back together make sure it's tight .I once made the mistake of not doing so and spun one loose on an old Mac and it shot down my drive way at about 100 miles per hour .Luckily I found it about a hundred feet away .
 
got it brian, ezpz. pulled the pump and oil cap, blew some air backwards through the hose and away we oil
 
Glad you got it fingered out, Willie. :)
Steve, do you own an air compressor? If you do, and if you have the skills to change a lawnmower blade, then you can change the sprocket on your 200T. It's literally that easy. Although I prefer doing it where I have air available so I can blow the saw out and make sure I get the idler bearing clean and greased before putting it back together.
 
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I am going to be ordering the tools to do the sprockets here.. Friggen brushing really eats them up. I go through about 3 a year. We wont talk about bars... Longest a saw has lasted me in the brush was a husky 455 18 bar, 4 years and throw away.
 
I am going to be ordering the tools to do the sprockets here..
What tools ? On a Stihl they are outboard ,just pop the E clip off ,takes about a minute . On an inboard ,Mac,Huskey,Poulan whatever ,about 5-10 minutes .A chunk of starter rope and a wrench are all that's needed .
 
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I have a compressor and small air impact, but I want the clutch wrench and the piston stop for my huskys.... Make for quick fix that I can't do right now on my brushing saws. Maybe I just dont get the starter rope idea in my head.. enlighten me...
 
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You can pull the plug and stuff starter cord down into the cylinder to 'jam' the piston so you can spin the clutch off. I used to do it on my old Huskys with the excess starter cord I'd pull up out of the handle. It was a tool that you always had on you. Then with just a bar wrench and already what is with your saw you could spin your clutch off.

Take your sidecover, bar and chain off. Then pull your plug and pull out the extra starter cord up through the handle without letting it get pulled back in stuff it down into the cylinder to stop the piston. Then place your bar wrench on the clutch and smack it off with your bar. Lol what a pita.

I ended up buying a metal piston stop which some people said could damage your piston. I always 'top' out the piston snug up against the stop before I spin the clutch off. Easy.
 
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Well the piston stop is what I see the mechs use down at the local shop... like ya said... snug up and turn.. they have a clutch wrench sorta thingy which is basically a breaker bar with two pins on it that fit into the clutch to turn it... seems to work really well when I watch ... think I saw the tools on baileys and gonna get them... Most my fixes like this will take place at home in my shop. Field fix only if I dont have my back up saws that I always have.... Same with the brushers... Just pick up the next one and get on with it.
 
The further from top dead center (the highest point the piston gets in its travel) the piston stop engages the piston, the less pressure the piston top/face of piston and bottom end will see.

I used some misc rope I had laying around for a piston stop.
 
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Cant say I wont try the rope for a stop... But... I really like having tools.... :) OCGD I guess... Heck ... Just bought some great tool boxes at a yard sale for 100 buks for three ;). Pressure washer for 25 that just made me 200 bucks the other day... Same yard sale... So having the tools is good for me.. But yup... I will try the rope just for fun :)
 
I have found carburetor cleaner good for unblocking an oil pump on a 020t.
--- Or WD-40 kerosine ,diesel fuel . On the pole saws which don't have the best oilers anyway,an occasional tank full of tranny fluid .

Tranny fluid while not being the best choice for bar lube contains a detergent which "eats " the sludge and residue the bar oil leaves behind .
 
I used to always use rope to jam up the piston, then I started modifying engines and needed to find the timing, which requires knowing top dead center. I took a round plug of wood that was soft enough to thread it's way through the plug hole, and it became my piston stop ever since.

Just buy some doweling from the hardware store, the next size up from the plug hole, shave it down if necessary, put a little oil on it and it will easily thread itself through. No damage to the piston top from wood, works great.

Tell them woodworkingboy sent you :)
 
A piston stop to determine top dead center and one to safely lock the piston are often confusing to some folks .

I know some people use the metal ones but that kind of scares me it might crack the piston like an egg .Maybe an unfounded concern .

They make a nylon piston stop which only cost a few bucks if a person would prefer that .I always just used the rope myself but then again I'm just a tad bit set in my ways or so I've been told .
 
Glad you got it fingered out, Willie. :)
Steve, do you own an air compressor? If you do, and if you have the skills to change a lawnmower blade, then you can change the sprocket on your 200T. It's literally that easy. Although I prefer doing it where I have air available so I can blow the saw out and make sure I get the idler bearing clean and greased before putting it back together.

Yeah, I have two of them Brian. Now that I think I know how to do it, I won't be so afraid of ending up with a bucket of parts.
 
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