Veggie oil for bar and chain?

tophopper said:
Bio motion lotion is running $20 p gallon.
Click to expand...
Ha I don't pay one red cent for it .Toms' brother in law works in a repackaging plant and gets the stuff for nothing .One leaker out of a whole case they discard the whole bunch . Tom being Tom only uses Stihl branded oils so old Al gets it .That,tranny oil about anything else .Cheap is good,free is better .:D
 
One thing that bar oil sellers sometimes use in their marketing, is that their oil has less sling than others, so there is less waste. Tackifiers are also sold separately, both dino and vegetable based (maybe only wholesale?) so it would seem easy enough to make up your own bar oil once you came up with a mixing ratio.
 
FWIW brand new automobile engines used to come with "break in Oil " which was supposed to be changed after maybe 1000 ,1500 miles .It was just 10 w 30 WT with a tackifier .

Now that was when bearing clearances were 2.5 -3 thou clearance .Now days with right at 1 thou clearance that stuff won't even pump through the system .
 
I figure that the bigger picture is the oil mist that we breathe when working around saws. The exhaust is more than enough already. Spills are the bigger concern than what is flung off.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #30
The Costco Canola costs about 1/4th of the BioPlus (if you're buying quart size). I was just wondering what the pros and cons would be using it in the saw. Yes, oil seems to get all over everything, no matter how careful I am. The veggie stuff seems cleaner and washes up better.
 
II usually thin my chain oil in the winter with kerosene, the first thought was that it might help cut the Pine pitch, but I doubt that it helps much. I read somewhere where kerosene or diesel fuel were good for thinning. Don't much like the smell of diesel fuel, though.
 
Add Burnham to the list...uhh, wait. Take me off. I've had to run bio-bar oil when working in-stream, on anadromous fish habitat work. Damn, does that make me an eco-freak?
:D
 
No sweat man, happy to help a fellow tree man/ logging sensai out.
 
The bar oil has other jobs than just reducing friction on the rivet and rail.
Biggest work it does is actually as transporter. It absorbs heat and take it off the bar/chain. This is main reason that you should have enough oil so it throw of a bit.
This is why Abrol, water, canola, hydraulic oil work. It is not for the superior lubricate property's in them...
Too much tack is no good...

USA and China I believe are those that use most oil in the world. Likely because you can and its convenient as well as cheep.
Per Country: http://www.nationmaster.com/graph/ene_oil_con-energy-oil-consumption
Per Person: http://www.nationmaster.com/graph/ene_usa_per_per-energy-usage-per-person
 
I only use the bio oil. Vegetable oils have negatively charged electrons, and are naturally attracted to steel bars and chains.
 
Magnus, you are saying that the bar throwing some oil is good because it also tosses some heat. Man, that is something that I would never have considered in a million years. Live and learn...
 
Spills vs sling, whats the difference, its not like the saw is burning the oil, it all gets thrown off somewhere.
I buy bar oil at walmart and bimart. About $8 a gallon now. Last I checked with the fuel depot it cost more to buy in a pail or a drum from them than pre packaged 1 gallon containers at the other places. No brainer for me
 
GASoline71 said:
I will still use oil designed for use on chainsaw bars and chains... period. Just me... and Brian, and Al... :wall:

Gary
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So now I'm a commie eco freak because I have to use veggie oil in order to qualify for state forest logging contracts which account for 80% of all we log?

Not fair:cry:
 
No Stig, like I told Burnham, if you are forced to use it it doesn't make you an eco nut.
 
If it work, run it, I don't think either way we make any environmental difference with the volumes chain oil we use in saws. There are more efficient / better way's to serve the globe...
If you want it to work really well without trouble and have options for it, why not try?

If bar oil cost a couple $£€ less in purchase, I bet you spend that and more on bar/chain/rim/sprockets...
 
There was a "veggie oil" thread on AS that lasted 6 years. I've been running canola oil for 2 years now and would never go back to regular bar oil. No more sticky mess in the back of my truck, I'm not afraid to wash my kids clothes with my work pants covered with canola oil, smells alot better, see better wear on b/c, and I'm saving money.....$5 for 4 liters [1 gal] at Safeway and our Safeways are open 24hrs.

I leave the canola in my saws even sitting for the winter and its the same clean clear oil in the spring. The other oils like corn, soybean etc might have a problem with sludge or whatever.
Canola oil takes heat better then regular oil also. Put a drop of canola and a drop of regular bar oil in a hot frying pan and see which one smokes first. The regular bar oil smokes right away.
For tacktifiers , it sticks good on a cold b/c but after a few cuts and the metal heats up the tacky oil flings right off.

Willard.
 
Burnham said:
Add Burnham to the list...uhh, wait. Take me off. I've had to run bio-bar oil when working in-stream, on anadromous fish habitat work. Damn, does that make me an eco-freak?
:D
Click to expand...

Nah Burnham... I had to run some of the bio-bar oil when we were doing stream cleanup years ago for salmon habitat as well. It's all good.

Now... for you other freaks...


















:lol: :P

Gary
 
Hell you could probabley run KY jelly in them if you could get it to pump .All that stuff is is water with a gelling agent AKA friction reducer .
 
I ran out once and just used some gear oil that I have for the lathe, thinned it with some kerosene. Seemed to work ok, but a different feeling to the crud.
 
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