Finn cut

  • Thread starter TreeDimensional
  • Start date
  • Replies 33
  • Views 4K
T

TreeDimensional

Guest
I have had this video for about a year. Is he right?
 
I skipped most of it, but basically it was a head leaner that was too skinny to put a notch/ bored backcut in standard wise, so he stuck the backcut in at an angle, boring it in and then tripped the strap?

That would work, but unless it's a super brittle tree I would have just cut the damn thing. If it was fairly brittle I probably would have Coos Bay'ed it.

Slanted back cuts are good for cutting leads too close to a lead that is staying. He wasn't wrong, but it seems like alot of futzing around for minimal gain.
 
I assumed he did it on that tree to show the technique, seemed that a regular whack job would have sufficed.
 
But if the tree is too thin to sink a 5" wide bore cut in, then I'd either do a regular backcut, Coos Bay backcut, or Coos Bay cut. I don't see anything horibly wrong with the slanted backcut, but I don't see it being a huge help either.
 
Exactly, Carl. If the tree is too small to bore cut it then you should be able to make a standard back cut fast enough to prevent splitting/barberchair. How long does it take to make a 4" back cut on a 10" tree anyway? Just cut the dang thing already.
 
Clever enough trick. As a head leaner and having another tree hung up in giving more head lean, I think it could be usefull in a slightly more dire scenario. I have seen trees in that situation blow up at the first touch of a saw in the back
 
Thats Mike Hill in the video, user name 'treebogan' on here.

he was using the small tree as a demonstration, but I would opine that Mike knows more about big tree falling / logging than almost anybody I know. He's a Kiwi, and spent his formative years cutting HUGE Cuppressus for the big kiwi yarding outfits.
 
I'm gonna do that the next chance I get, but I can't imagine every really needing it. Interesting cut, rawk on Mike Hill! :rockon:
 
I was wondering at first why he didn't plunge up higher and cut down to the hinge...seems a bit easier, then it occurred that plunging in right behind the face, might ensure a more precise hinge. With a leaner and a big drop zone, it doesn't seem very critical.
 
The only time it would be needed it would pinch your saw. If it didn't pinch your saw then it wasn't necessary anyway. I think the entire premise is a boat load of fail.
 
If the tree is inclined to split then it will pinch your saw when you try to make that cut. If the tree isn't inclined to split then you don't need to waste your time. Even in the video he almost got his saw stuck. I absolutely would not recommend this cut under any circumstances.
 
Brian, Mike has a boatload more experience than you at this kind of thing. If you don't like it, fine, but quit being such a sourpuss. It works, and works well.
 
Exactly, Carl. If the tree is too small to bore cut it then you should be able to make a standard back cut fast enough to prevent splitting/barberchair. How long does it take to make a 4" back cut on a 10" tree anyway? Just cut the dang thing already.

Once about every ten years we have a real good storm here.
A lot of young stands like the one in the video will be knocked all or partially over.
A tree like that , standing in a 45 degree angle with other trees leaning against it will blow up as soon as you touch a saw to the backside of it.

You'll only " cut the dang thing already" once, then you won't cut any more trees.

The Finn cut is useful for small trees with a lot of tension, bowed down by heavy snowfall for example.
Mostly forestry applications,true, but that doesn't make it a bad tecnique.
 
Back
Top