Yale Guardian dynamic bracing Installation Directions

What do you need to know?
Start the splice at a point 1.5 diameters of the stem or more.
2 pass throughs and then bury at least one staff length.
 
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  • #3
So a 12" limb would get an 18" eye?

Only bury a staff length? I recall the tail should be 4 staff lengths. Am I remembering way wrong?

love
nick
 
"...using one full Staff length of line,pass the Staff straight through the center of theline trying not to seperate the small parts of line. Position the intersection of the two lines so your teardrop is the right distance from the wood. Again pass the Staff straight through the line in the opposite diection as your first "through" at least 2 times the line diameter from the first "through" towards the other connection point. Continueing away from the teardrop, reinsert the Staff this time into the center hollow part of the line at least two times the line diameter from the second "through". Push the staff through the hollow part of the line a Staff's length and then pull out the Staff clear of the line and remove it. Milk the line away from the teardrop until the tail disappears into the line.

Frankly I think that the Yale instructions could have been written better but descibing this stuff IS a pain. I presume that a staff length includes the chinese finger trap section.
 
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  • #5
I will presume that, too.

I will write up new directions for them. The ones they have are blurry and a little hard to understand.

Thank you for clearing things up for me.

The webbing sleeve just needs to be sized for the eye...nothing special there?

love
nick
 
Yeah the friction sleeve( shield in Yale parlance) is cut to fit the 'teardrop'.
Since the more inline the legs are the stronger and less prone to creep the splice should be, I have been going large on my eyes('teardrops') and long on my buries.
The spans should include some slack so that the cable only loads in extreme events.
 
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  • #7
I'll probably do 1.5 staffs, and taper the last half a staff. I like your idea of bigger eyes and longer tapers.

My kit includes:

Guardian
2" webbing friction sleeve
Lighter for melting end of "friction sleeve"
Scissors (in leather sheath)
Sharpie to mark friction sleeve and Guardian
Staff

All fits in a nice, free patagonia backpack that I got.

I remember reading the part about leaving a little slack. That makes sense to me.

love
nick
 
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  • #8
I am thinking about threading on some red "flagging" strands and telling people to call if they ever see them.

love
nick
 
Nick, Your flagging idea is a good one. I bought the Fresco Kit and it came with a super nice Bashlin Rope Backpack. I haven't thought about heat sealing the friction sleeve-It doesn't seem to fray badly but that is still a good idea. I have never felt the need for the sharpie-I tend to measure empirically and cut. I'm not surehow tapering the bury will effect the hold of the staff on the line. one thing of note is that the Guardian line(Which is actually just the cover braid of another Yale product) ravels like mad when cut. Several inches of the end will unbraid if you cut it and shake it twice-That gives a bit of natural taper effect when you roll/pinch it back together and set the staff grabber over it.
 
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  • #10
You don't taper it and tape the end before inserting the rope into the staff?

I'm maybe thinking too much like a splicer.

I checked on the box and it says it's Portland Braid, (which is like the not-as-premium double esterlon) cover only

love
nick
 
Nope, The instructions state that tape will make it harder to work with-I tried it and they are correct.
 
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  • #12
You're just not doing it right :)

I like not having to pretension the whole tree before installing the system.
 
The first roll i bought had instructions stating the eye must be 2.5x the diameter of the attachment(trunk/branch). further rolls had no instructions, think they changed them?
 
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