wood splitter

[sotc]

ok i got a 4" cylinder last night and a 6 inch i beam today. i get my steel at a recycler so i cant get to picky

 

[sotc]

ok heres a quick slap together of some of the new parts. i have enough room to beef up the 6 inch if ii need to

 

[stehansen]

Looks good. My Uncle always made his "pusher" really high and that put a bunch of strain on things. You have it real low should eliminate all that. I've seen him tear the ears right off of his sliding mechanism. This is before he bent the beam. All to try and use some chunk of wood worth probably fifty cents.

 

[squisher]

I split all my firewood by hand, I just use a splitting maul and blast right through. I have no problems because I only keep/use prime firewood.

But I am interested in watching this set-up progress.

 

[stehansen]

I grew up using either almond or walnut for firewood. Neither splits very easily.

 

[Al Smith]

That combination should work just fine.

 

[sotc]

ok, i got my splitter working on the bench last night! i just have to glue it to the universal plate and were active. i busted a couple peices of wood and didnt even slow down the big cylinder. i think im going to have to shorten the spike back even with knife as it seems to torque the beam. ill try it a bit first. pics later

 

[sawinredneck]

I'd tell you it looks nice and I think you did a god job, but I got educated last night. I guess I am a moron and should quite thinking, sell my welder to someone that can actually use it, and give up while I am still ahead!
So I won't.

God I love AS

 

[MasterBlaster]

You being bad-mouthed, Andy?

 

[sawinredneck]

You being bad-mouthed, Andy?

It's all in the first page:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=64801


I guess my log splitter is a total POS?

 

[sotc]

jeeze andy, why didnt you tell me id screw it up in the first place thats why i hang here.

 

[sawinredneck]

jeeze andy, why didnt you tell me id screw it up in the first place thats why i hang here.

I enjoy other peoples failure, it gets me off

 

[sotc]

ok here it is in working order. works good but i have more ideas to make it better, but that will be awhile. ill use it like this for now. thanks for the helpfull comments

 

[sawinredneck]

YUP

 

[MasterBlaster]

I've never seen one oriented like that.

 

[sawinredneck]

They are starting to do that a lot on machinery mounted splitters Butch. You can grab a log from the pile, move it to the split pile and chop it up. Never have to get off the machine! It's really a pretty efficient design.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Never thought of it like that, sounds interesting!

 

[sawinredneck]

The neat ones are on backhoes, wood on one side, split wood on the other, never have to move the machine, and drink a beer/smoke a cig while you do it. Multitask baby

 

[squisher]

Looks good, what are you planning on changing on it?

 

[RaisedByWolves]

It's all in the first page:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=64801


I guess my log splitter is a total POS?

Why do all the a$$holes share my first name?

Am I an a-hole too?




STOC, I hate to say this, maybe this will put me in the "Hole" category, but that beam is going to die a terrable death. That is made for guardrails, you need something made for structural purposes with at least 3/8" web and preferably 1/2".


It may just spring enough to pop the end off of the cylinder, that would suck a great deal.....



I liked the pin idea the moment I saw it, but After review, I think two wedge shaped pins would be a better idea. One pin may let some wood split wherever and leave funky chunks when the uneven split portion hits the blade. Two would ease the forces but still split it in line with the blade, unless your splitting twisty Beech or.........That tough to split wood with the funky green/light green/tan bark.


Help me here people.


Starts with an S....



Sycamore!!!! Hate that crap.





.

 

[sotc]

thats one of the changes, heavier beam, i guess id have to buy new steel cause they never have it in the scrap yard. another thing is id make the push plate higher and move the cylinder a little further from the beam

 

[Al Smith]

By golly it is a guard rail beam,just noticed that myself.

Not to be the bearer of bad tiddings but it could warp and never pop back if you chomp into a chunk that has about a turn and half of twist in the grain.

In critique the higher up the wood makes contact with the wedge the more strain it puts on the beam.The initial point of contact on that thing is at that spike gizmo .

It will work as it is as long as you don't get some nasty knots etc but keep an eye on it and back off if it starts to do the twisty thing. As long as you are doing that white oak or whatever that stuff is you will be fine.In the mean time keep on the lookout for a real healthy chunk of I beam .

Well,look at it like this before you get done you will have learned a lot about steel stresses and fabrication .What's been done is meerly an education .,before you are done with this thing I have no doubt it will be bullit proof .

 

[sotc]

.In the mean time keep on the lookout for a real healthy chunk of I beam .

thats the plan

 

[stehansen]

Maybe you could strgenthen the beam by gussetting from the bottom flange to the beam as high as you could go without interfering with the slide.

 

[fallguy]

If you were to cut back the ears on your slide some so you could get 1 1/2" from the center webon each side. You could have 2 pieces of 1/4" flat stock seared to the exact demension you need to set them 1 inch from the center web. Then stitch weld them 1 1/2" of weld then a 2" gap. This will give you 3 webs in stead of one. It will make a dramatic differance in the lateral stababity. P.S. Iused to be Fallguy1960