wood splitter

sotc

Dormant hero!!
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well im building a wood splitter for my dingo. just getting started but thought id throw some pics up for comment/critisizim. here goes. first is my main parts, next two is my blade built and attached to the i-beam and the i-beam attached to the dingo plate
 

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Why go side to side? why not go straight forward from the machine? Or verticle in front.

Ive thought of this too, just dont want that many hrs on the unit.
 
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  • #4
i can stand on the plat form and see the wood and knife by doing it from the side. ill only need to stand wood up on edge then drive the machine up to it, and split it in place
 
I see. The way i was thinking of doing one was mainly using the motor and hydraulics of the unit and having a separate lever for the ram. much like a store bought splitter would have.
 
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  • #7
rounds on edge, bark to ground. look at the last pic, that will be in position for most of my splitting
 
You should make a 4 way or 6 way wedge on that. That way each log will deliver all the pieces at once, instead of picking up and re splitting each half, which would be WAY time consuming. If not you will have to reposition everytime because the wood is being banged out to the right, so your gonna have to scoot over for Every peice.

I used a 4 way on a entry level timber wolf, man it was a beautiful thing!

Just my .02.


And DAMN, I need a welder!!
 
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  • #9
yeah when i was at the scrap yard i couldnt find "wing" pieces. i need to go back for some "eyes" to attach the cylinder ill keep looking.
 
A 4 way adds alot of stress.

I'd put a valve on the beam so you don't have to walk around the machine every time.

Why do you have to stand the peices up? Roll forward and pinch them lengthwise.
 
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  • #11
i wont have to walk around the machine at all, and lengthwise is how it will work
 
Dave Norgaard has made another splitter. He says he figured out a better design but I dont know what it is.

I agree that a 4 way will add alot of stress. Also your 'knife' seems a bit big for the size of the 'I' beam. Should you grab a hunk of wood at the end of the knife, it could tweak your welds and maybe even bend the I beam.
 
On the hydraulics of a skidloader you have to remember they use a single stage pump.A knife edge cutter would indeed be better that a 4 way .

A big old 4 way or high angle wedge I don't think is the answer in this application .
 
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  • #16
thanks for the advice! think ill try it like it is before adding on a 4 way. i am a little concerned that the dingo doesnt enough snort but ill soon find out! it is a long knife but ill try it first and see if theres any flexing.
 
I wouldn't think the length of the blade matters that much, perhaps the height (is that what ya'll are talking about?)?

My mini will put out 12gpm @3kpsi with power to spare.
 
I wouldn't think the length of the blade matters that much, perhaps the height (is that what ya'll are talking about?)?

My mini will put out 12gpm @3kpsi with power to spare.

I think that is more than enough hydraulic capacity for most wood splitters. Have you used a splitter like this before Willie?
 
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  • #20
no i havent, mines 7 gpm and i dont know how much psi. it moves quickly though, i got the hydraulics hooked up today
 
Pics? Mine you can choose 6 or 12 and I think 6 is fine for most attachments. I can tell ya the bit of messing around I did with the BMG six was the way to go for me.
 
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  • #22
yeah, dont need much for the grapples!
heres some pics from today. i got the "slide" mostly built and the hyd. fittings i needed. got lucky and had hoses just the right length8)
 

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Ahh I see. Looks good to me!
What's the pointy stud on the blade do?
 
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  • #24
just a concentrated point to start the split, specially usefull for a 4 way blade
 
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