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I'd like to point out that the first picture is a 3:1, not a 2:1.

I use a 3:1 with biners or sometimes just rope. Normally though it's the mini that does the pulling. If it's more than the mini wants I'll use the GRCS.

If wedges can handle it and they're easier, they get the nod.
 
I always use wedges pulling against a lean.
If the tree or snag has a significant bend to it up high that favors the lean.
I will use an open face notch to keep the hinge intact as long as possible.

Depending on the type of tree I will leave a thicker than normal hinge in this situation.

I would like to add that Wiley P's thoughts on using a porty when pulling with a truck carries a great deal of merit. I use this a lot. I have seen lines slip off a hitch or get cut from setting in a bad spot on the truck.

Most here should know this. But make damn sure your pull line is centered with your face cut.
 
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I second the motion to use a port-a-wrap when pulling with the truck. That sure would have saved me before.

But make damn sure your pull line is centered with your pull line.

:? Do you mean to make sure the line you are pulling with is centered on your line of pull?
 
I second the motion to use a port-a-wrap when pulling with the truck. That sure would have saved me before.



:? Do you mean to make sure the line you are pulling with is centered on your line of pull?

Brain Fart, I fixed it.
 
The revolver biners are available in a double auto lock.

LO.jpg



I have 2 of them. They are great.
 
Are there any diagrams out there for the proper way to use multiple wedges to get enough lift to tip a leaning tree? I have had a number of different suggestions but they are all different. You what they say about free advise. Its worth what you paid for it.
 
Just a quick story about a friend had to have some facial reconstruction...

He stacked a couple of the little orange Stihl wedges and was banging them in with an axe head. He hit one and the other shot out and hit him on the cheek and bridge of his nose... really really hard.

Worth mentioning.

In general I don't work against a lean with wedges, just use'em to keep the cut from binding the saw.
 
On stacking wedges, a little trick I learned was to, I mean it's not a cure all
but worth a try if you get there in your frustatrraaroioanns.

Boring like 3" down from your originally set/sunk wedge.
When You hit the second wedge, it usually breaks the wood between the wedges and gives you even more lift.
You want the wood in between to break. If you go too low it's hard to break that wood.

I've stacked up to 4 or 5 hammerhead wedges and gotten plenty of lift.
Those rifled stackable wedges kinda suck I think In my little opinion.
I like the hammerhead metal topped ones.

er something.
 
I don't bore so much as I do something along the them of Ekkka's quarter cut technique.

Same theory though, 2 wedges (or more) with wood in between.
 
Cool method, Deva. I've never heard of it before but it sounds impressive. I can't wait to try it out sometime just to see it work (and gain the admiration of my coworkers).
8)
 
i like that trick to, thanks deva! some times ill trim the pie cut and put it in with a wedge. sometimes a little sawdust between wedges will help. get very many stacked and its an iffy situation.
 
i like that trick to, thanks deva! some times ill trim the pie cut and put it in with a wedge. sometimes a little sawdust between wedges will help. get very many stacked and its an iffy situation.

Well said. A little dirt works, too. Sawdust, depending on the type of wood, can act as a lubricant and the wedges will start to fan out. LOL...this only happens when you don't want it to.

I've stacked three wedges a couple of times but it was dicey and I was already in trouble anyway. Any more than three...it's time for a jack or a pull rope or a Cat.
 
I use heavy equipment as little as possible,occasionaly hire skidder/log truck...easy to do in the Greens. With no crane or bucket I carved out the hard to access trim/removal niche.I have pulled many,many trees with the Tirfor...Italian made cable grab.STRONG,versatile,portable...Am I alone?
 
.I have pulled many,many trees with the Tirfor...Italian made cable grab.STRONG,versatile,portable...Am I alone?
Nope, I use a tirfor too. 2 of them in fact, a 1 ton and a 3½ton, they are surely the neatest winches ever made. The 3½ tonner has a break factor of 16 ton, so even if you pull hard enough to break the little safetypin, it won't let go of the load.
By the way, Tirfor is from Switzerland, not Italy.
 
Awesome I feel better already...a few memorable times we pulled a 3/4 ton truck full w/hardwood hitched to chipper back onto the road...I think I have the larger model...
 
I'd like to add something to the whole discussion about stacking wedges.

Around here fallers carry a stack of steel plates about the size of a wedge and between a quarter and ½ an inch thick. Once we've pounded the first wedge all the way in, we stick one or two plates into the cut and place the next wedge on top of them, repeating the procedure and building the stack of plates higher until the tree falls. That way you totally eliminate wedge-shootout.
Only drawback is that the plates are kind of heavy, but then 2 wedges and 5 plates will knock most anything over.
 

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:O Whoa! That is sweet! I'm gonna try that the next chance I get. I've never seen such a large gap in a backcut before with the tree being in motion!
 
In 'Fundamentals" Beranek goes over stacking wedges , and uses of multiple wedges...if you really understand wedge design...single taper , double taper , ect....with a little practice you can stack them... those plates sound interesting Stig!
 
In Stig's photo, the tree does not appear to have a face cut. Probably just the angle of the photo?

There is a face cut, allright!

This elm tree was going to be shipped to Germany for a wood auction, since good elm is getting really scarce around here and therefore really valuable.
So in order to save as much wood as possible, My partner made the smallest possible face cut, he could get away with.

It sold for 5800$, by the way!
 
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