The Humboldt is primarily for speed of production

[stikine]

David, your chicken scratch is way better than Kyle's 😁. A lot of it is about the root flare and the logging system that is going to be used. If you can locate the hinge near the root flare then you minimize any scale loss because that area is outside of the scaling cylinder, which is measured down from the smaller diameter of the upper log end.

Ground based logging systems definitely like low stumps. Cable is slightly more tolerant of a higher stump (at least around here).

 

[Tree09]

It is 😔








🤣

 

[lxskllr]

Don't feel bad Kyle. Between the two of us, we could put on the world's worst art show. My drawings at work are the stuff of legend :^D

 

[Ed L]

I use a Humbolt most of the time...mainly for the stump shot. It helps get the tree away from the stump, thats important for me using a tractor.

Ed

 

[davidwyby]

Don't feel bad Kyle. Between the two of us, we could put on the world's worst art show. My drawings at work are the stuff of legend :^D

I should show you guys this drawing of a drive shaft one of my guys made

 

[davidwyby]

Usually when the two cuts are compared, they are drawn symmetrically, one up and one down.
In real life, a Humboldt tends to be less open and deeper and a conventional more vertical, open, and shallow.

Proponents of the Humboldt say that the conventional wastes wood off the butt log.

Guys who are harvesting hardwood with conventionals cut the face quite shallow and vertical. If you look at the log from the end once felled, you realize the what they took off is within the first cut to be milled off the log, scrap.

 

[SeanKroll]

Eastern $$$ wood is worth trimming flares off. Western is volume...speed. Eastern wood can't have fiber pull. Western doesn't seem to be a big deal.

Western tree trunks I'd wager are 2-3 times longer...speed/volume...

Are you sure there isn't deduction for fiber- pull?


Would fiber-pull reduce veneer logs to saw-logs?

 

[SeanKroll]

Not pete, and I hope he will comment, but this is how I understand it from watching and conversing with eastern (hardwood/veneerwood) and western (conifer) cutters.

Maybe I’ll just leave the chicken scratches for Pete to expound on.

View attachment 141430View attachment 141431

Why would one cut a face unnecessarily high?

 

[SeanKroll]

When cutting big trees, way easier to clear the wedge out of the face-cut.

I've bore-cut vertically into the center of a wedge, inserted a wedge, pounded to split the face, slid 1/2 out, then a blow on the remaining vertical side of the second 1/2 releases the second 1/2. They side down and out on the slope.


Sometimes a wedge in the sloping kerf aligned vertically with a wedge in the horizontal kerf pops out a nearly free wedge, which slides out easily.

When a wedge weighs over 75-100+ pounds, it really matters much more than small trees.

 

[davidwyby]

When cutting big trees, way easier to clear the wedge out of the face-cut.

I've bore-cut vertically into the center of a wedge, inserted a wedge, pounded to split the face, slid 1/2 out, then a blow on the remaining vertical side of the second 1/2 releases the second 1/2. They side down and out on the slope.


Sometimes a wedge in the sloping kerf aligned vertically with a wedge in the horizontal kerf pops out a nearly free wedge, which slides out easily.

When a wedge weighs over 75-100+ pounds, it really matters much more than small trees.

I used my narrow Muller alum wedge vertically into the side of the gap face (tension side) here, hoping to save time popping the whole face out at once. Unfortunately, I got a jagged one third and had to fiddle around with saw and axe considerably, edited out of video. Maybe I will post the long form…