Tension Released Felling Cut

[SouthSoundTree]

I use a running bowline below the whorl of branches. No need to tie and untie. Speedline doesn't need to be above, IME, even using nonlocking biners.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Before the Wraptor an on certain trees, I will do what Scott pointed out. Just put a biner on the end of the line in the tree and cinch a loop runner or sling on a branch/leader or trunk. Then hook the limbs that need the ride down.
On that tree I had the running bowline further up the tree where I was going to top it already. That way, No need to keep cinching or tying except what I was removing in the next series anyway. All Rob had to do was take in slack as I went on the ground. When done zip lining, the line was already up there for the top. Switch to a block and dead eye.
10-12 sets before the gear had to come back.

 

[treesmith]

What do you use for "runners", Stephen? I use loop runners, for the most part. I have one that I always keep on my saddle. Run a limb out, when possible, use as a saw lanyard if a bigger saw is needed in a pinch, use it to hold my climbing line coiled so it doesn't hang in the way...lotsa uses. I bought several 24"ers and several 30"ers years ago, and I'm still using them today. I also made up several out of some cord I picked up at the hardware store, 3/8", prolly 1000# break strength. On lower stuff, when there's not much angle to the line, I'll use a small pulley so the piece "runs" a bit faster/smoother. And sometimes I'll use the small Petzl trolley, with a small rigging plate clipped beneath it. I'll clip the limb to be run out in the center hole, then just stick the end of an old 1/2" line through the hole on my side, tie an overhand knot in it, and use that rope for a haul-back. I like this better for bigger limbs, say anything over 200#, if I'm doing many of them. Runs much smoother than just a 'biner on the line.

 

[MasterBlaster]

The only time I speedline is when the limb can't go straight down the tree, which is a rare occurrence. I guess I haven't had to break out the kit in a couple years.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Unless we're speedlining in the wind, maybe we could use a speedlining thread. Such a useful thing when applicable, has its own bag o' tricks, and some people have gone without using 'em for too long.

Great for landscaping below, going over a narrow gate rather than thru, avoiding an uphill drag, etc.

 

[squisher]

I've used it for a cemetery removal before over the section where earns are buried so there was literally high value target everywhere, speedlining that is. We used remaining trees to facilitate speedlining the trunk sections out. Almost like a yarder set-up.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Crikey.. we've gone OT again...

 

[CurSedVoyce]

What do you use for "runners", Stephen? I use loop runners, for the most part. I have one that I always keep on my saddle. Run a limb out, when possible, use as a saw lanyard if a bigger saw is needed in a pinch, use it to hold my climbing line coiled so it doesn't hang in the way...lotsa uses. I bought several 24"ers and several 30"ers years ago, and I'm still using them today. I also made up several out of some cord I picked up at the hardware store, 3/8", prolly 1000# break strength. On lower stuff, when there's not much angle to the line, I'll use a small pulley so the piece "runs" a bit faster/smoother. And sometimes I'll use the small Petzl trolley, with a small rigging plate clipped beneath it. I'll clip the limb to be run out in the center hole, then just stick the end of an old 1/2" line through the hole on my side, tie an overhand knot in it, and use that rope for a haul-back. I like this better for bigger limbs, say anything over 200#, if I'm doing many of them. Runs much smoother than just a 'biner on the line.

Probably should start a thread.

Loop runners. Lots of loop runners all different sizes. Screw gate biners. Z rig for tensioning. Floating anchor sometimes for positioning the LZ.
SO many little tricks...
I'll use a pulley when they get heavy as you do, and control with a line. I don't have a trolley yet, something on my list but not on top. I mostly just use another loop runner and biner on the control line and cinch it to the pick. Most the time I do not need a pully as most of the cuts have to be small over the roof and what not. I carry a mini porty on my belt and a small CMI on my belt for the control line. Two man team I help with the loads. With the mini porty, I can redirect and reset a lowering situation into a zip line in a heart beat by using the mini porty as the anchor point in the tree, lock off the lowering porty at the base and have Rob hook up the Z rig at ground on the other leg of the rope. Zip done, detach, resume lowering. no need for a completely new set up.
Used that little gimmick in this oak. Lowered one side over a patio and roof, lined out the side over the lilacs and butterfly bushes.



Wanna move em MB?

 

[MasterBlaster]

Meh...

 

[Jed]

Whoaa... Nice zip Stephen.

 

[ClimbingFool]

Using speed lines definitely have a time and place..but thy are time consuming unless your just letting the limbs fly down the rope. Thats when I break out my 3 strand. Letting heavier limbs run down the rope will burn it, especially your double braids.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Interesting Greg. I avoid using my three strand for speedlines because its too bumpy and stretchy.

Agreed that a controlled speedline can be time consuming, but so can regular straight down rigging.

Zipline speedlining or uncontrolled speedlines and vertical speedlines are very useful and reasonably quick when things would otherwise have to be lowered.

What type of weight are you talking about causing burning?

 

[MasterBlaster]

I've never noticed burning.

 

[ClimbingFool]

Interesting Greg. I avoid using my three strand for speedlines because its too bumpy and stretchy.

Agreed that a controlled speedline can be time consuming, but so can regular straight down rigging.

Zipline speedlining or uncontrolled speedlines and vertical speedlines are very useful and reasonably quick when things would otherwise have to be lowered.

What type of weight are you talking about causing burning?

Yes, three strand is bumpier, but I always try to make sure the last limb I''m sending down in session has weight to push a lighter limb if need be..That is also if I'm just letting the limbs rip. As far as weight, ehh anything over 100lb, but sometimes it may have to do with the angle of the speed line that may contribute to burning. It doesn't always happen, but it does. Again, this if your just letting the the limbs run down the rope.

If I'm set up for haul back, longer spans, with more pre-tensioning, I always use my double braids along with my large CMI trolly and plate.

It's all about time and location as you well know.

Greg

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Back to the original topic, I have a 100' hemlock with a rotten, hollow base- a drum. Cavity in the one side, which I how I know its a drum. Crown is full. Likely annosus.

Pardon a repeat if I mentioned this already, sleep deprived at the moment with the baby.

I'm considering dropping a top, than the trunk, but don't want to put Any unnecessary lateral force on the stem while I'm in the tree. One option is climb to the very top and pop a little top,then chunk it down 20-30' to be sure to clear some keeper trees if the hinge should fail.

I'm considering putting a back-guyline below this type of cut with a 40' top, and a pull line on the front, descending out of the tree, then pulling the top out while the trunk is stabilized. Maybe a second guy out toward the front to deaden the wobble while pulling the top, then use it as a pull line. I'll leave branches on the main trunk.

HO will take care of the brush, I'll just have to buck it.

No other obstacles in the area except forest trees, and the driveway, 90 degrees to the lay.

I like this idea more if I have a Wraptor by then. I suppose with the Wraptor I could use this technique several times to drop 20' logs, rather than having to buck the main trunk after it falls more heavily, whole.

 

[murphy4trees]

front guy is a bad idea IMO.. if you catch it with the top something's gonna give... Back guy should be fine, ( the closer to 180 Degrees against the pull and lay the better) hemlock hinges well... sounds like a plan... where is that old "falling large tree tops" thread anyway? Seems like you were mighty skeptical of the idea back then.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Yes, front guy can't get caught. I was thinking well off the lay. Trunk wrap that can be let go, and it needed, wrapped more.

Maybe I was skeptical at the time, don't remember specifically.

Heard from the HO that she is getting other bids and will let me know.

$800 for a rotten, hollow, drum of a butt 100', maybe a lil' more, hemlock in a known root disease pocket, bucking all the wood to 16", leaving as it lays, doesn't sound bad to me for a price, but there are a lot of people that could do the job, and some crazy ones that wouldn't think twice about it, probably. The area beneath the tree is just slash, so the trunk will stay up off the ground for bucking pretty well, I think, but at the same time, nothing to avoid damaging, and no rigging anything down. I was hoping for ~3 hours onsite.

Killing trees often goes to the lowest bidder.

I'll be just as happy not to get the job.