Stihl vs. Dewalt Drill : Which is stronger?

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  • #27
Ahhhh so the extensions are thinner than the bit itself so the only actual bit/trunk contact/friction is on the front 6" or so where the bit is.

Clever.

Where does one find such a thing?

My plan was to use a 12" bit first, then switch to the 24" (these are bits I already have) then after the tree was 3/4ths of the way done finish up with the big guy. It will be tedious and I'm giving myself approx 30 minutes to drill each hole. Seems like installation of the actual rods will be pretty quick. Slide in the rod (pound if needed), install washers and bolts on each side (using LocTite rather that peaning) than grind off the excess with the grinder then round off the edges with a flat file so the doggies don't cut themselves whilst chasing squirrels.

love
nick
 
Drill extensions at your local hardware store

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The BT45 is an excellent drill. Had mine for 10 yrs now and not a lick of trouble with it. Never touched the carb always idles real nice and low.

For the first 5 yrs when I was into fertilization and aeration, and some cabling/bracing I worked it hard. Turned a heavy 3 ft long 2" auger for many a hole when doing fert /aeration.
Biggest thing to be careful with about is changing gears smoothly, but then having said that no one else has ever touched that drill.
 
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Uncle Al will tell you that electric power vs. infernal combustion power, rated in HP, is an uneven field, favoring electric pretty strongly.
It's like compairing a piss ant to a mule .Gas engines are what they are .Electric is true horse power .It might sound hard to believe but electric as it's rated can be up to 3 times the power of a like rated gasoline engine .

As far a pole /tree drilling back in the day we used a big old Sioux 3/4" electric drill that would punch a 36" long 3/4" bit with ease .I personnaly own a 3/4" Milwaukee electric drill .

A little secret to drilling deep holes is to only go in about 3 inchs then withdraw the bit to clean out the hole of chips. Continue this process the entire depth of the hole . If you hang a bit and cannot reverse the drill motor about the only way to back it out is with a pipe wrench .

If you can find a regular "ship auger " it will do a lot better job than a short twist drill using extensions .Those things have a tendency to hang up .
 
... Slide in the rod (pound if needed), install washers and bolts on each side (using LocTite rather that peaning) than grind off the excess with the grinder then round off the edges with a flat file so the doggies don't cut themselves whilst chasing squirrels.

love
nick
Careful, the grinder will heat strongly the rod/bolt and could burn the loctite, leading to its inefficiency.
 
We stopped grinding the rods because we were called concerned that it would heat the rod enough to damage the bark around the hole. Not sure if that is a realistic concern or not.
 
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  • #34
no way! The grinder is only on it for a few seconds!

Maybe we'll spray water on it while we're cutting...just in case. That'll really impress the client!

It could take a solid minute to chop through it with a hack saw. Who has that kind of time!?

Careful, the grinder will heat strongly the rod/bolt and could burn the loctite, leading to its inefficiency.

Good call. Never would have though of that. I shall thread it all, cut, wait for cooling, THEN apply loctite.

love
nick
 
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  • #42
...It might sound hard to believe but electric as it's rated can be up to 3 times the power of a like rated gasoline engine...

I guess that statement right there sums up the point of this whole thread. What does "like rated" mean when one drill is rated in killowatts and the other in UWOs? Is there a conversion chart for this?
 
... crossing over from the ski area, lifts mostly run giant electric motors favored for more power and are easier to control. The APU's (back up motors) are gas or diesel once engaged will run the lift. I know of only one lift in North America with a Diesel primary drive.
 
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  • #47
Looks like you guys can take your gas powered drills for a long walk on a short pier!

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We did four bolts today. We drilled a total of 11 and a half feet of 11/16" holes, 5 holes in the canopy for the rigguy system we installed, and it powered the battery powered angle grinder to make approx 6 cuts in the 5/8" rod, all the cutting of the 5 cable pieces, and some grinding on the ends of the rods to smooth off sharp edges. We started with 2 full batteries. One got a recharge during the job. In all honesty, the battery in the grinder on the very final cut of the last through-rod tuckered out and that rod was finished with a hacksaw because the hack saw was closer than the other battery was!

I'm satisfied with what we were able to do. Making sure there is electricity nearby is essential next time I do a job like this.
 
That sounds like great performance, Nick. One thing you might consider doing is to get yourself a 400 watt or so inverter to plug into the truck, and plug the battery charger into that. That's how I always kept charged packs for my 18 volt drill in my work truck.

Maybe I should caution...only run the inverter when the engine is on, 'cause inverters suck juice bigtime and will leave you with a flat truck battery pretty quick.
 
I'll be glad when an inverter comes stock in vehicles. I mean, it's not rocket science or all that expensive. I do believe there's some vehicle that has a 110 plug in it, but I may have just dreamed that.
 
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  • #50
We already got one! We are trying to figure out a way to mount it inside one of the tool boxes in the truck so that it can always be ready for us. I'm planning on putting some sort of on/off switch inside the cab of the truck so that it's only on when we need it.
 
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