Sharpening Oregon 91vxl help?

ClimbMIT

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Ok I purchased a few 91vxl chains for my Stihl ms192 tc. Every time I sharpen them the saw is jumping like I missed sharpening some of the teeth. I have used the Pferd sharpener which is set at 35 degrees. This chain states that it should be sharpened at 30 degrees. Is this my problem? Also should I be using a different bar than the green label Stihl that came with the saw? Does sprocket count matter? any help is much appreciated! I also have a Granberg filing system which I use. I really like being able to use the Pferd since set up time is so fast.
 
Not really sure what "jumping" means in your description, but none of the things that you mention should cause the bar and chain to cut poorly or erratically, if all the cutters on the chain are sharpened at the same angle, 30 or 35 degrees, and cutters are relatively even in length from side to side. The original bar or not or a few chain anomalies shouldn't cause problems if you are using things that are designed to be operated on that saw and are in proper combination with each other. Is your sharpening leaving you with a sharp chain or have you done anything to leave yourself with improper raker settings that cause a grabby chain? Sprocket teeth count shouldn't be a factor unless you might have something very strange on there that doesn't belong. Inspect all parts for damage or excessive wear, and when sharpening, make sure you are using the correct file size for the specific chain. If you are using way too large or too small a file compared to what is recommended, I suppose it could mess things up so the chain won't slice cleanly through the wood. Especially too large a file would probably yield blunt cutters that want to bounce on the wood. Is the chain sliding in the bar groove correctly or any damage to the end of the bar where the tie straps get engaged? If you can't sort out the problem, you should take the saw to your dealer for a look over. A trained eye should quickly figure it out.
 
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On the rakers I have used the Pferd chain filing system. However I don't check the distance between the raker and cutter. According to Oregon the 91vxl should be .025 between raker and cutter. Grabby is a better word for what is happening. Not sure what tie straps are? I do have another bar so I will try putting that one on and having a look at the two to see if anything is different. If I can't figure this out I will bring it to the dealer. Thanks for responding!
 
If you took the rakers down too far therein lies your problem .During the usefull life of a chain they may only be lowered 3 or 4 times .
 
Sound to me climbmit, like your raker's are set to low for that angle. What is the gauge of the grove in your bar compaired too the chain. Although im thinking that the problem is still in the rakers/depth gauges. Try to use just a round file even if it dosen't need to be sharpened and don't touch the rakers. Take some material off the cutter itself and it should put the rakers back into specs. I usually only touch the rakers , if i have sharpened the cutter and it still cuts slow, or i use my oregon .025 raker gauge and just check it, but if there is barley any raker showing in the gauge i use i don't touch it till next time.
 
From what i have read also, is that the 91 vlx 3/8 lp works fine on the stock bar and sprocket, the stihl chain that comes on those stock are junk.imho.
 
Also, if anyone wants to try a ATOP guide i have one , but u will have to send it back cause i gave my right nut for it being that is cost so much.
 
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Thanks Ch 74 I think your right I need the Oregon raker gauge. I am going to order one. What is ATOP?
 
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Thanks Al, On the rakers do you guys just give them a flat top when filing? I ask because I think only took them down once or maybe twice at most. On another thread I read about chain sharpening about keeping the file clean while sharpening is really important and most important using a good one. How much life should you expect from a 5/32 file? Do you guys oil the file? Thanks
 
I lay a flat file across two cutters and use that to judge the height of the raker.

No oil, no backdrag, and when the file no longer files, its life expectancy is over. What I mean is you can feel when a file is done.
 
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Advice taken. Thanks for all your help. I sharpened a Stihl chain earlier today with new file, no oil, and checked every depth gauge. Cuts great! Oh yeh i never back stroked on them but I was especially careful and will be from now on! Lol
 
I guess it depends on how much you bring them down. I'd rather do it more often, using a light touch, than the other way around.
 
Anybody ever run into hardened teeth that the file won't sharpen, even a new file just skims across? I assume it must be heat, but doesn't that require instant cooling as well, and why only an individual tooth now and then?
 
I don't think it needs to cool quickly. A grinder set to aggressive can harden a tooth like nothing.
 
Ah the grinder....I hadn't thought of that. I have one, but I'm not sure I have put the chains with an occasional hardened tooth on the grinder. Something to pay attention to though.
 
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I must admit that I think I know what I was doing wrong. Before I got the Pferd I filed the rakers using the depth guide for my MS 361 on my MS 192 which is low profile and requires different depth gauge. So in short I took them low.
 
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