Seized my EHP Husky 372.

One number off :P
Sorry Brian.. Thought I might have had one... Called a shop in town also to see if they might have something laying about.. Nada :(
New one is about 80.00 I think.
 
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  • #28
I appreciate you looking, Stephen. I'll hold off a few days before ordering anything, maybe something will turn up.
 
the PN for the 372 is 544-04-71-01 or 72-01 depending. Is that what you have?
I have a couple that are 544-04-70-01:|:
Edit: I know they would work on your 346 but not so sure on the 372
 
Unless the plug wire was ripped out of the coil, can't you join another plug wire to the broken end, then electrical tape it or whatever?
 
It is not permanent on the ones I had apart here. Twisted in on a pin and threads in the surrounding plasic.
Should be easy to replace...

However, it is easy to cook a coil not properly grounded.
 
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  • #35
I'm not confident in my plug wire splicing abilities. And I don't think electrical tape would be durable enough for my use. In fact I rather dislike the gooey mess resulting from using electrical tape on anything. I don't think I've owned a roll of electrical tape in 15 years.

I could probably get by with a patch for a few months, but I'd just as soon replace the coil. It's a common saw so parts shouldn't be difficult to locate.

Magnus, I didn't know that. If the wire does twist out then I can fix it in a half hour. BRB. :D
 
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  • #39
The plug wire twisted right out like you said. I thought it was sealed in there with epoxy. I used the plug wire off a 346, it was a little bit shorter and the insulation is a smaller diameter but it worked. :D
 
It will work until you get correct.
It is best to get correct so you fill out the hole properly and no moisture or something worse get to it.
If there is movement it can break the pin over time too...
 
Awesome... And now I have learned that those wires twist out. Dealer always tells me "new unit" in the past :/: Now I will have to try that if it ever happens to me again.. Had a fly wheel take one out one time. ;)
What about some silicone to hold it Magnus?
 
All righty then .Say though if you ever do have to splice a primary wire use something like Scotch 130C tape . It's rated for high voltage but it's pricey at 13 bucks a roll . Shelf life is about five years before it self vulcanizes . Then it's like a hockey puck with a hole in the middle .
 
glad everything worked out and didnt cost a lot of money to fix it. Rick
 
Just unscrew the plug wire from coil. Screw new one in it's place.

EDIT: I'm slow and 1 to many.

Also I've spliced plug wires that didnt unscrew. No problems.
 
Brian or anyone else for that matter, if you ever need bulk plug wire I know a place where you can by the different sizes in bulk by the foot.
 
I've used modern multi layered composite wire from scaped out stuff from work but it's a little tricky . A person is better off if it comes to that to use copper wire .

Modern automotive wire is a type that uses carbon fibered conductors and is good for about 100,000 volts which you don't need on a chainsaw .
 
It is important in some ignition systems to have correct wire, connections and plug.
Any of these bad or wrong will lead to failure, broken modules.
Correct resistance is a must.

Some are very sensitive, others not at all...
 
I've never attempted or needed to repair a solid state ignition modual . The only ones were 40 plus year old points types so it wasn't that critical .
 
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