Rigging ring difference in brands?

[Benjo75]

I'm in the process of buying a few rings and splicing up some slings. Been looking at the different brands and prices. Tylaska, All Gear, X rings, Fiori ring. And they vary in price greatly. Any experience with the different brands?

 

[gf beranek]

They all top quality for our needs, shop locally

 

[treesmith]

I assume by the ones you named you’re referring to the captured rings, as opposed to the plain rings. I use both, depending on current situation. I also recommend a rigging thimble if you do much rigging in compromises/dead trees. My rings are Notch brand, from Treestuff. My rigging thimble is also Notch brand.

 

[Benjo75]

I use a Safebloc for 95% of my rigging. It just works best for my style. But I've been catching myself just using one or two holes lately. Been wanting to make up a few slings with one ring on it. There's such a difference in price I didn't know it there was a difference in quality or wear life.

 

[Benjo75]

These are the kind I'm looking at.

 

[treesmith]

 

[Jonny]

Did you see the video for them Fioris? They’re 5X the price because they’re 5X the size.
I got a small Xring, a large Notch I think, and a large All Gear. They’re about the same quality I think. The Xring has a hard coating, the All Gear is Anodized, the Notch is polished.

 

[treesmith]

The rigging thimble is arguably “better” than the safe-bloc due to no rope-on-rope contact. (Just my two cents)

 

[Benjo75]

I like the look of the thimble. I have completely worn out 2 Safeblocs and on my third and never had any rope on rope problem. Only real problem is if its tied too close to a vertical limb or spar it can sometimes get pulled against the tree and stop the run. Usually just takes the groundy moving left or right to free it up. Only happened a handful of times in 2 years though. Tried the AFB. Horrible device. May try a thimble before long. I'm always looking for anything that is incrementally better or that will shave a second off.

I want to splice up a couple of rings on dead eyes for span rigging and see how that goes. I have a couple of Safeblocs on dead eye slings that I want to transfer to Ultra slings. After using Ultra slings I'll only use dead eye slings when I have to or if I need to choke something off very tight. Which doesn't happen that often. The pockets in the ultra sling is almost always doable.

 

[Benjo75]

Treesmith did you splice that 3 strand on those rings?

 

[treesmith]

Treesmith did you splice that 3 strand on those rings?

Yes sir.

 

[murphy4trees]

Grab a $9 shackle and tie on an old piece of half-inch line or 9/16th for a sling and use for redirects and light rigging...

Practically free!

 

[Merle Nelson]

With regard to the OP and coatings the true hard coating on XRiggingRings and on Antals makes a big difference with cleanish rope. Run muddy rope and you can sand through it though.

 

[lxskllr]

I got a shackle from the tool consignment shop. Dunno how much it holds, but it's heavy as shit; ~2#. Haven't used it yet.

 

[Tree09]

It should have the tonnage stamped into it, otherwise you can measure it and look up the ratings. Like wire rope, chain, and other rigging it has standardized wll.

 

[murphy4trees]

Amazon product ASIN B01MZ0DKQK

 

[Benjo75]

Lots of different ways to go about it. I did watch the Fiori video. Several times. I see lots of opportunity with it. If I ever get to where I can splice Tenex Tec I'll probably go crazy making all the things I think I need.

 

[treesmith]

If you can tie your shoes you can splice Tenex!

 

[ruel]

12 strand hollow braid takes almost zero effort to splice. Slightly harder than tying a knot you know. Easier than learning a new knot.

Seriously, it'll take maybe an hour to learn. PM me if you want and I'll walk you through it over the phone.

 

[Benjo75]

Most mornings I can tie my shoes. Lol. Some are harder rhan others though. Thanks forthe offer ruel I'll pm you. I Saw Jonnys pics where he made an ultra sling. I have a few ideas for sling and ring setups that I'd like to try. Plus I'll need something to do this winter when it's raining.

 

[theTreeSpyder]

Rings/Thimbles etc. became new as i became old and was playing with clevises as Daniel shows going into that time.
.
i had this monster new clevis found in stuff from local phosphate mines.
Wet ground and sanded few numbers off of the 'eye' until smooth and nylon stocking wouldn't hang up when dragged across.
Then gave Round Turn(RT) that fed to side or higher to keep RT from crossing self.
Kinda like overhead Porty of frictions on a metal heat sink.
.
It is the rotational degrees of contact X friction values of the mated surfaces that give (compounding) brake force
>>NOT distance of radial contact as eye tells you
>>Linear frictions calc by distance, but radial frictions compound by degrees.
Eye is interpreter that feeds to brain, a fact leveraged by sleight of hand, tricky pictures etc.
>>good to train brain when to re-interpret , to possibly over write what has been handed.
Larger circumference doesn't give more brakeForce , but rather supports rope thru softer arc to maintain more strength efficiency, and less concentrated heat byproduct, and more heatsink if metal host mount.
.
This was for heavier overhead loading, and did not get thru 1000 permutations before my wings were clipped !
>>steering away from heavier stuff in the end.
>>so not something have pushed out a lot etc.

Support to clevis should TERMINATE on the support, not redirect down to ground etc. for minimal support loading.
If any length between support and clevis, the side force effects can be seen as more in jointed stages, but pretty much the same at end.
.
Started with mid of throwline piece reeved/threaded thru cotter key eye , then around open end of key
>>but in time that extra safety seemed mostly superfluous, as device was made to take all kinds of abuse in enviro bought for.
But did replace key few times to keep tight as possible in usage, as better than jamming key thru to eye.
.
The hang on control side and lift on load side preTightening, invokes bodyweight, physical effort + equal and opposite of physical effort.
>>So, has 2 adjustable input parts: bodyweight and effort
>>so can hold a built up tension at bay with efforts + friction, and then impact with bodyweight to tweak more tension
>>or sometimes impact with both at some time, or bodyweight first with effort chaser to keep moving etc.
Whatever strategizing, recognizing and leveraging as separate functions can help immensely on high end of range

 

[cerberus]

I use a Safebloc for 95% of my rigging. It just works best for my style. But I've been catching myself just using one or two holes lately. Been wanting to make up a few slings with one ring on it. There's such a difference in price I didn't know it there was a difference in quality or wear life.

Your next post has what I'd consider the absolute best ring (Fiori ring $180), next I'd hesitantly consider the Bend Right ($100) but hesitation is over line-size (they state 9/16 max, but clearly that's un-spliced so that may matter to you, for instance I have 1/2 polydyne spliced with the tiniest plastic eye you can get (the type for tight-eyes on climblines) and it won't go through anything excepting XL rings or Safebloc (you couldn't hammer it through a Lrg x-ring) Without any plastic in the eye, I can fight my spliced-without-plastic 5/8 through Lrg's.

Have you found Elevation Canada yet? Got my last ring through them for like $45 shipped (think I used their ebay store not the website, believe they nix the s&h when you go ebay but not via the store) and made an awesome "eye&eye" sling (9.5' long, 3/4 polydyne sling, xl's on each end.....SO versatile and strong, 2 legs of 3/4 polydyne is >50k lbs) They sell "#1, 2 & 3" rings, I can't speak to #'s 1&2 but, for my #3, it's a solid >10% thicker than my XL x-ring which I found cool, even if the Elevation units weren't like 2/3rd the price the 10% thickness gain would make me get them anyway.

Re the Safebloc, very glad to hear that, it's my favorite anchor also (have it on an oversized 3/4 TEC whoopie, wish it had a deeper sling groove though / am upset it's sat w/o any of the obvious innovations it needs for over half a decade now..) but am always weird about using it by itself (ie I usually have my 2-XL's sling "feeding" the Bloc in normal setups, w/ the 5/8 line because it responds better/more friction and has better hand-feel for me when solo rigging ie most of the time) as it's thinner than an XL ring, I wish I had one of the prototypes where they simply welded (3) XL rings together but the Bloc is thinner than an XL which is thinner than Elevation Canada.....so for me rings are a no-brainer, I wish there were more innovation in the Safebloc/Triple Hole Thimble world, at least something with a bigger sling groove & dog-ears to keep it secure so people could have more confidence in it in terminal-rigging applications as the concept itself is just brilliant I mean how often could you say "I do not care to lower the peak forces this log will generate" ? lol

 

[cerberus]

Oh and another thing that wasn't as obvious to me on first purchases- having lots of variety in your slings-kit is awesome, am doing a removal today and don't like the leaning top of it and, when coming up with a plan, it was nice having the gear (will be using at least 4 or 5 anchor slings in the setup for topping this tree in a double-whip, fishing-pole type configuration) and if you buy right you can do it cheaply, I know Elevation Canada had pairs of the XL's for like $75, you can get free s&h on $1.50/ft TEC (3/4) at Gap Arbor, between those two retailers (and samson's instructionals if you aren't good at splicing 12S's) you can put together a mighty-fine kit for just the price of a decent block!

 

[cerberus]

So after another order, some new splices, had a couple things to add:

- Gap removed free S&H (well, they made a $50 threshold for it)

- I found Rhoma branded rings are now the cheapest, they're slightly thinner than an XL x-ring (just like that XL x-ring is slightly thinner than an XL Elevation Canada), but a deeper sling grooving.....at just $35, shipped, I'd be all-over these if I had any need!!

Can't re-iterate enough how important it is to have multiple slings of this sort since you'll find there is absurd value in using them in-conjunction with one another (it's fine to just replace your single-block setup with a Safebloc, but the real beauty lies in having half a dozen varying ringed-slings so you can setup a 2, 3 + redirect system as norm for any work that'd benefit Will "plug" here, again, for my idea of "snake anchors" IE just really long "eye&eye" rigging slings, my 10' long one (with XL's on each end of the 3/4 polydyne sling) is my favorite and allows me to "set 2 anchor points" from 1 sling in many canopies.

I'd consider an "ideal sling kit" as being one that's thought-through your use cases, for instance if you're doing smaller girth conifers most of the time then you'll want a different mix of slings than if you did big Oaks most of the time. I like to "categorize" them a little, for instance some require crotches and others can be tied to anything; some have inherent 'slop', but are useful for other reasons (ie Ultraslings, loop slings, slings with eyes on opposite end from hardware)

Good luck w/ your rings guys Shameless pic of my new one, I ordered the 5/8 t-rex because I had to meet Gap's new threshold for S&H (was just aiming to get 30' of Ice Tail since my hitches weren't long for this earth), intended to make myself a second "snake anchor" with the 17' section of t-rex + the pair of Lrg x-rings I had (removed from the 3-ringed x-sling, because you could literally remove the rings by-hand, IMO 3/4" TEC is too-large for Lrg-x-ring grooving anyway) but after more consideration realized a second 'long snake anchor' would be of little value and that I still didn't have the "loose", but super simple, Ultrasling configuration yet, soooo:

Had never touched t-rex, stuff leaves a residue on your fingers and has a smell when new *BUT* it splices soooo easy, if you thought splicing TEC as child's-play...
(and want to be clear I only have this because those rings came on a pre-made sling, I can't see any reason to intentionally buy the Lrg rings for rigging excepting making retrievable/ground-set slings, past that I just can't imagine deciding to go for the Lrg rings I mean they won't even pass spliced 5/8 line, that's not "Large"!)

 

[DaveyFace]

Once i went to rings i learned to splice and went a little crazy making ringslings of all kinds . Tenex and trex ultraslings are super useful. I prefer the abr/notch rings because of their size. The large is my favorite for a friction saver. I found a custom anodized ring from a Russian seller on ebay and its my new go to tie in point.