Planting trees

I don't give those trees much of a chance, being planted in such a thick grass turf.
Should have killed the grass half a year before.
 
I've done some native tree planting out on a Property here, they prep the ground with a sort of ripper (rows of divots through the turf), a squirt of herbicide for the grass in the immediate area.
Once the grass has died, we jam the seedlings in and each one gets a mini greenhouse, little corflute triangle secured with bamboo stakes.
Mostly watercourse edge restoration.
Floods took a lot of last years out, but some areas have just taken off. Mix of trees, shrubs and little stuff
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #4
I don't give those trees much of a chance, being planted in such a thick grass turf.
Should have killed the grass half a year before.
Is that because the grass will literally overshadow the planted tree and maybe also the grass roots will outcompete the seedling roots?
 
Yep, compete for nutrients.
Also mice can hide in it in winter, and they'll gnaw the bark and Cambium off just above the roots, because of the nutrients stored there.
Big problem here.
We used to lay out poison for mice when we panted Beech, but that is fortunately outlawed.
So keeping grass and weeds down, so owls and falcons who both hunt by sight, can get to the mice is paramount.
 
I tried to find a decent youtube video of reforestation planting with hoedads in the PNW, without success. One huge difference from what we see in Stigs pictures is the site prep. There it appears to be tilled, with no leftover forest product on the ground. He mentioned that the cultivator was not able to work at one point due to wet soils, so they didn't plant.

Here in the Cascades the clearcut sites are not prepped much at all. There is a large component of slash and existing growing plants and brush to contend with. Often rocky ground, and plenty of steep. Just getting at the soil to make a planting spot is hard, often. It's tough work.
 
Probably you also use the slash and log bits as like support/shelter for the seedlings. Planting them above a log for example but next to. Supplying the trees erosion control for stable ground. Food for future as they decay, and water retention as it slows waters at the RZ.
We did on a reseed here.
We had lop and scatter in places and on the clearer ground, placing log sections for planting against.
 
Sometimes yes, though I cannot recall ever needing to add more slash :D....in the contract language requiring such practices we call it "micrositing". On my side of the range, the western slope, there has in the past been little need for this. Historically weather was wet enough for healthy growth and solar damage to seedlings was uncommon.

Perhaps that will have to change.
 
Yes, drier here.
Where we had to put logs were in places we just had no slash. Forestry mower about made ba r e dirt from brush. Etc.
Place had been logged out 3x selectively during our beetle kill period.
 
I planted Doug fir up near Arcata in 1981.
They were planted on the shade site of stuff to avoid sunscald.
A completely unheard of thing to a Scandinavian, of course.
 
I just plant nursery stock :( no mass planting. I have helped line out a dozen or two acres at the nursery, does that count?
 
Link to a post of mine with some tree planting pics.


And a description of the work.

 
I tried to find a decent youtube video of reforestation planting with hoedads in the PNW, without success. One huge difference from what we see in Stigs pictures is the site prep. There it appears to be tilled, with no leftover forest product on the ground. He mentioned that the cultivator was not able to work at one point due to wet soils, so they didn't plant.

Here in the Cascades the clearcut sites are not prepped much at all. There is a large component of slash and existing growing plants and brush to contend with. Often rocky ground, and plenty of steep. Just getting at the soil to make a planting spot is hard, often. It's tough work.
That used to be the way here.
Then my forwarder guy bought a cultivator 10 years ago.
More and more clients for that, so this year he shelled out 200 grand for a new one.
This is not just a rotary plow, it rotates by hydraulic power.
Waaaayyy better.
With the climate change (you know, the hoax that democrats and libtards came up with, so they could take away your big pickup trucks and eventually, of course, your guns) giving us extremely dry springs(this year was a record) thecultivating really makes a difference.
 
Back in the old country we called them brackke scarifiers I'm surprised that you are hand planting your flat ground @stig. Back in Minnesota that would have been machine planted... after scarification.
 
Last edited:
We do both.
Gotta get a mulcher or whatever it is called, to deal with the stumps before machine planting.
Costs money.
 
That used to be the way here.
Then my forwarder guy bought a cultivator 10 years ago.
More and more clients for that, so this year he shelled out 200 grand for a new one.
This is not just a rotary plow, it rotates by hydraulic power.
Waaaayyy better.
With the climate change (you know, the hoax that democrats and libtards came up with, so they could take away your big pickup trucks and eventually, of course, your guns) giving us extremely dry springs(this year was a record) thecultivating really makes a difference.
The hoax that killed off all the Pinion pines on my property, 20 years before I got to it? I plan on doing a write up on the subject, with pictures at some point. That is if anyone is interested?

Planting in my neck of the woods is all done by hand, if not volunteers and students, then the inmate work crews do it too.
 
Those take a somewhat larger planting hole prepared, vs. 1.0 plugs. More skill required to get them in correctly...no J roots, not too shallow. At least with conifers it's that way.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #24
J roots? Soon to be girdling roots?
 
Root tips turned upwards rather than straight down. It can potentially cause girdling, yes; also just being too shallow, roots dry out more easily causing seedling mortality; also can lead to a condition called "planting shock" wherein the seedling fails to thrive because it is planted in a far different orientation that it was raised in; also long-term inhibition of well-developed root system can lead to blowdown as the tree grows.

The term comes from the roots being planted in the shape of a J.
 
Back
Top