GASoline71
'cause chicks dig scars
At the cost of a total rebuild... you might be able to afford a new saw... or a nice used one.
Full on rebuilds can get expensive...
Gary
Full on rebuilds can get expensive...
Gary
PISTON=CARNAGE!
- Thread starter No_Bivy
- Start date
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SkwerI
Treehouser
Yup, you can spend lots of money replacing parts that aren't broken. I would be much more inclined to simply leave the bottom end intact and just go with the piston and rings, jug if needed. Judicious application of parts cleaner, compressed air nozzle and a bit of good old fashioned observation and common sense will usually be enough to make sure the bottom end is clean and won't grenade on you later. If you can spin the crank by hand without feeling any grit in there then I'd bet it's ok.
GASoline71
'cause chicks dig scars
That would be the first bearing race in a saw I have ever heard of breaking. Sure it wasn't one of the wrist pin clips? I only saw the one in your pics.
Gary
Gary
sotc
Dormant hero!!
on the ends of the wrist pin which is the rod that the piston pivots on. goes through the piston
SkwerI
Treehouser
The wrist pin is what connects the piston to the connecting rod. The wrist pin clips go at either end of the wrist pin.
GASoline71
'cause chicks dig scars
They are a little 3/4 circle clip. If they come out, which is rare but does happen, it can basically do what happened to your saw.
Gary
Gary
GASoline71
'cause chicks dig scars
Looks like Bailey's does not carry the aftermarket P&C for the 036/360. If the cylinder looks good... you can get just a piston kit for 33 bucks from Bailey's.
036/360 P&C
Just don't use the wrist pin clips that come with the kit... they are junk. Go to your Stihl dealer and get factory Stihl clips. Trust me on that... don't ask me how I know.
Gary
SkwerI
Treehouser
Bailey's had a bad run of wrist pin clips a couple years ago. They have fixed the issue but it will dog them for many years, I'm sure.
GASoline71
'cause chicks dig scars
thanks, how DO YOU KNOW?
John... I've done my fair share of 2 stroke top ends. Dirt bikes and saws... messin' with wrist pin clips is a royal PITA. Anyhoo... I have an 038 on my workbench right now that I'm replacing the P&C on for a buddy. It just so happens it is the same saw I put a piston kit in 8 months ago. Kit was from Bailey's.
One of the wrist pin clips came out and screwed the P&C up... so now I'm redoing it (again) with a new cylinder too. It is the first time I had ever had a clip come out of an engine i rebuilt.
After talking with a couple of Stihl saw techs (both over at Arboristsite), they told me to never use the clips that come in the aftermarket kits. Only use factory Stihl clips.
Gary
GASoline71
'cause chicks dig scars
Im about to attempt my first rebuild
Good luck... it's actually easier than you think. Holler if you need any help mang!
Gary
rumination
Migratory Hippie Arbolist
John, I replaced the cylinder and piston on an 088 once. If I can do it then you definitely can.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
Besides all that,you don't have much to use.I mean you really can't use the saw the way it is.I might also add that it's not nearly big enough for a boat anchor.
Magnus
TreeHouser
Keep in mind that this is not a common thing that happened. A few buck's for bearings and seals is worth evry penny. It is not easy to clean this out without splitting the case. You can't know for sure you got all out.
I see no reason to change cylinder if it is ok, but take a good look at intakeboot and all other rubber parts.
This has happend as a resoult of something else.
It should not happen.
I see no reason to change cylinder if it is ok, but take a good look at intakeboot and all other rubber parts.
This has happend as a resoult of something else.
It should not happen.
M
Mike Maas
Guest
Splitting the case is a bitch, and take special tools and know how. Unless the saw is pretty new, it's not worth doing the lower end.
The cylinder is made out of aluminum and then it has a paper thin coating on the cylinder walls of really hard metal called nikasil.
If there was impact on the edge of the ports, there may be some damage to the nikasil, that will need to be carefully fixed. The piston needs to go up and down past the ports without snagging. If you look closely, the factory chamfers those edges.
Not only does the piston have to be installed in the right direction, the cir-clips need to be oriented properly too, or the fall out.
I wonder which bearing race broke apart? If it's one of the lower bearings, the saw is junk. You can't replace the lower piston rod bearing, which means you need a whole new crankshaft, if it's that bearing.
The last four saws I bought were used, if you know what to look for that's cheaper than rebuilding. I just got a dolmar 6401, with a new piston and cylinder professionally installed, for $200, just to put it in perspective for you.
The cylinder is made out of aluminum and then it has a paper thin coating on the cylinder walls of really hard metal called nikasil.
If there was impact on the edge of the ports, there may be some damage to the nikasil, that will need to be carefully fixed. The piston needs to go up and down past the ports without snagging. If you look closely, the factory chamfers those edges.
Not only does the piston have to be installed in the right direction, the cir-clips need to be oriented properly too, or the fall out.
I wonder which bearing race broke apart? If it's one of the lower bearings, the saw is junk. You can't replace the lower piston rod bearing, which means you need a whole new crankshaft, if it's that bearing.
The last four saws I bought were used, if you know what to look for that's cheaper than rebuilding. I just got a dolmar 6401, with a new piston and cylinder professionally installed, for $200, just to put it in perspective for you.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
I'll agree to the point of being a pain in the butt to do but it really isn't that big of a deal.Good old Stihl lists a bunch of high priced pullers etc. and the proceedure of how to do it.Keep in mind however there is always more than one way to skin a cat.The whole thing just hinges on a persons experiance I suppose.
I personally would not trust a rebuild unless the condition of the crank bearings and crankshaft assembley were verified as good.Then also if the crank is shot,the saw is pretty much toast and just becomes parts.
In all my tinkering around,the only extreme rebuild I've ever done was on a Mac 125.The reason I went to all the trouble was because the saw is relatively rare.Something like this saw in question is not that rare and I wouldn't doubt that perhaps a good used replacement might be obtained cheaper than a rebuild.It just comes down to a question of economics and what you really want to do with the saw,lots of options.
B
beelsr
Guest
I'm gettin' skeered
no need to be scared.
get the real stihl wrist pin clips, they're like 80 cents apiece. Get a few extra because they're "springy" and you'll probably launch one across the room and lose it. And when you install them, the "open end" goes towards the top or the bottom - never to the side (in relation to the stroke movement, as viewed from the side of the saw).
J
Jonseredbred
Guest
After talking with a couple of Stihl saw techs (both over at Arboristsite), they told me to never use the clips that come in the aftermarket kits. Only use factory Stihl clips.
Gary
does that go for other brands?
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
What,the circlip or how it's installed.For what it's worth,even auto engines that use bushed rods and pistons have the circlips installed as was previously noted.
No_Bivy
Treehouser
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- Sep 2, 2006
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- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #50
Got the piston kit....Now I'm debating taking the crank case apart or just trying to clean it out. Maybe I should hire someone to do it. Stihl dealer wants 300buck........Maybe I'll experiment, I already bought a new saw.
