No Face

No face?

  • Yes

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • No

    Votes: 30 100.0%

  • Total voters
    30
Butch, was this guy from Alabama by chance? I threw several guys off of a project in LA for using that same technique with disastrous results. I was told thats how they "fall" timber in Alabama. I was always curious how the lead looked in their strips.
Bad idea all around.
 
In lopping brush and small trees I seldom use a face cut. Though I maintain cutting as long as the tree moves to keep it from splitting.

The technique you described, Butch, it sounds risky to me, but it just goes to show another mans method.

I'd like to have watched and recorded it. Like Kenny said the way fiber varies in different trees you may get by with it in some but certainly not all.
 
It doesn't sound too good to me but neither do those bore cut ,back cut deals they use on veneer trees either .They say it's done to prevent fiber pull . I guess not being a veneer cutter I just wouldn't know .

I use the binder chain when it doubt .As I have said before I had one chair on me early on and I've never forgotten it .:\:
 
When I was a kid, I was playing around with my new bow and shot an arrow straight up into the air. As soon as I did it I realized that the slightest little breeze could make that arrow go anywhere it pleased and that I might be about to die. Looks like this guy is as lucky as I am. The difference is that I never did it again, while this guy apparently did it 3 times in 1 day.
 
he said 3 times a day. come back to our world but i promise it's gonna hurt
 
One thing we can remind ourselves of is the Coos Bay felling cut. Recall that Jerry Beranek describes it with no face, as opposed to my own variation of it. Here's a link to the thread where we hashed it out.

http://gypoclimber.com/showthread.php?t=9410

Now this fella is not doing the same thing, exactly. But there are similarities.

Nonetheless, I don't think it wise when it is possible to put in a proper face. There's where your directional control comes from...I only would go without if there was too much lean to allow it (and then I'd do the Coos Bay style), or in quite small wood...as others have said already.

It's lazy and probably gonna bite his azz one day.
 
Butch, when you say he used a chain to control the barberchair, do you mean he bound it, or he cut it fast?
 
Gotcha...so barberchairing was not a big issue, but uncontrolled direction of fall still is.

If he can accelerate the skidder fast enough to keep ahead of the speed the tree falls, I reckon it could work out most of the time...but people usually don't keep going that fast that long.
 
I've seen it work to a degree, but the guys that used that technique exclusively were off a bunch about 80% of the time. A coos bay works because there is a headlean, and it isn't a precision cut, just a safe option for dealing with heavy trees.
 
If the tractor is strong enough to pull it over enough against the lean, to the point where the tree is leaning towards the lay, and with no slack in the line, unless there are issues with the limb weight making it go astray once it starts to fall, it seems OK to me. Still, a face would reduce how much the tractor needs to pull. No?
 
It's without a doubt a hack move, and you'd likely only get away with it on something like (some) pine or spruce etc. Try it on cottonwood or silver maple and they'd go sideways more often than not I would bet.
 
If the tractor is strong enough to pull it over enough against the lean, to the point where the tree is leaning towards the lay, and with no slack in the line, unless there are issues with the limb weight making it go astray once it starts to fall, it seems OK to me. Still, a face would reduce how much the tractor needs to pull. No?


yes because it moves the fulcrum point further back. burnham makes a good point where when pulling a tree over it reaches a point quickly that the pull point moves faster than the thing pulling making it
 
"Keeping ahead of the split."

You ever hear that before? I learned there is some degree of control if you can cut the stem faster than than it would split out. But once the split occurs you generally lose control.

It's specific only to falling small trees to their favor. With a little windage control in some. Even with limbs in the tree.

I never forget when Mike Davis described the Coo's Bay cut to me in a bar one night( the Golden West) and while he was telling me about the Coos Bay I thought he lost his mind. But I knew Mike was a Pro.

About a year later I had a strip of trees to cut on an old land slide near Dos Rios. The only trees left standing on that slide were all heavy leaners, Doug Fir. I was at a loss to figure a way to deal with those trees until I remembered what Mike told me. And before the day was over I had that strip cut and bucked without a single barber chair. Now I use the Coos Bay cut on heavy spars and limbs in the tree. It's unconventional, but it works.

I'll always use a face cut on a fair standing or back leaning trees to see them to the lay. Heavy head leaners, however ......
 
There is the speed of the pulling implement part, but it seems to me that with no face, the tree isn't going to want to lean towards the lay so readily, so the pull force translates to a lot of tension in the tree in the right direction, sort of a whipping action once it starts to go. Won't that make up a bit for a pull that can't keep up with the tree when it goes over? With that tractor you've got what....2 tons of pull maybe..that's a lot of force to get a pine to start going where you want it to.

It's a perfect barber chair scenario without the chains.
 
i think i see what your saying buut i dont think you could cut fast enough to use the whip. i think it would come over slowlytill the "stretch" was gone or gravity took over. kinda mind boggling to think about
 
Exactly.

I have used the no face cut before. Reserved for trees small enough I can just push them over where I want them to go. Anything bigger than that gets a proper notch.


ditto that......It called stump jumping......


Yo, Dave, how goes it?
 
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