Mud Truck Thread!

[lumberjack]

We'll see if I get them or not, waiting to hear from the guy, will probably be tomorrow.

At one point I thought about doing an 8x8x8, but that would be too wicked methinks. A 6x6x4 would be interesting, but still a bit too wild. Designing a suspension that would be good in the rocks/trails would be a doozy how I'm currently thinking.

 

[Frans]

http://www.foleyspecialistvehicles.co.uk/index2.htm

 

[lumberjack]

The roll over vid? I'm planning on a cage, but it might end up being a full tilt buggy if I can figure out how to inclose it at least partially (windshield and tall boat sides). Don'y want to freeze my nads off in the winter, and I don't want to wear the mud anytime.

 

[Frans]

LJ, why not save some money and buy this instead?

 

[MasterBlaster]

I wish I had money to burn. I must be doing something wrong...

 

[Frans]

I wish I had money to burn. I must be doing something wrong...

Must be, otherwise you could buy this!

A steal at 65 grand

**** ( UNBELIEVABLE FULLY RESTORED & BETTER THAN NEW ) ****
1976 Mercedes Benz 416 DOKA diesel Very Rare and custom rig
STREET LEGAL AND REGISTERED
*Ground up restoration by the Unimog warehouse * impeccable condition
*20 Speed transmission
*Portal high speed axles
*1 off custom built camper shell (sleeps 3) / tons of storage
*Fresh water
*4000 watt inverter-can power microwave oven
*Custom stereo system
*On board GPS
*15000 lb Warn winch ( never been used )
*75 Gallon aluminum fuel cell
*4 Optima Red Top batteries
*6 new 44 inch tires
Comparable UNIMOG's this nice have sold for over $100k. Take this one to the car show or the middle of nowhere and back - its qualified for both.
A bargain @ $65,000 U.S dollars and should continue to increase in value as the Crew Cab Doka's are very rare.
Serious buyers call anytime-ALL RESONABLE offers considered (NO TRADES) 877-469-3629
click for more pic's = <a href="http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh252/dmaxstore/Dmax%20Adds/Unimog/"
(search words) rock crawler-4x4-duramax diesel-ford superduty-dodge cummins-pwerstroke-chevrolet-gmc-jeep-landcruiser-bronco-military vehicle

 

[MasterBlaster]

That's one crazy sweet looking ride. I especially like the inverter!

Fresh water?

 

[lumberjack]

Imagine it's a camper, if that's what you're wondering about the fresh water.

I'm 2nd in line on the axles, seal kit doesn't come with them and the front has the weaker style joint (still 50% stronger than a 60's 1480).

They're going to call the fab shop that wants them to see if they still do, if not I figure I'll still take them. If they do want the axles, I offered $200 for the wheels and drive shafts.

There's a guy 3rd in line, if the fab shop falls through, I might get them, keep the wheels, lug nuts, and shafts, and let him take the axles for the $900.

The lug nuts are $3 a piece, $72 for the 24.

 

[lumberjack]

The axles are looking like they are going to be mine.

The seller mentioned they were going to be charged $200 to haul the axles on a trailer that's already carrying their vehicles (they are paying for the trailer to haul their toys to the desert) the 500 miles from Bristol to Memphis on a path the driver is already taking. I'm fine if they want to pay that, but I aint, they can keep them.




Another note, thinking of going full tilt boogy buggy instead of a truggy. I'm trying to estimate how much metal I'd need to build the chassis. Thinking a 3 or 4 seater, 118" wheel base minimum, and damn near nothing hanging past the tires (approach and departure angles over 90*.


Do my eye's deceive me or is there no effing way there's 250' of tubing in this chassis?

The chassis is for sale but I have no intention of buying it. I told the seller that (not so frankly ) and asked how many feet of tubing he used, he said 250', more when it was finished. See below for the 2 pm's.

12' long end to end, widest point is 4'7" (55"). I'm seeing maybe 150' in that frame, probably closer to 120'.

Originally Posted by lumberjack1986
You're too far for me, but could you estimate the amount of tubing you have in the chassis?


Thanks

Carl

His reply.
i think around 250',when your totally finished a little more.thanks

 

[Jonseredbred]

Carl a few years ago before we stopped playing with dirt oval race cars we had about 150' in a IMCA mod wich uses stock frame and front clip. That chassis there has way more tube in it.

 

[lumberjack]

200' of 1.75"x.120" DOM, 100' of 2.5"x.125", and 100' of 1.5"x.120" DOM would be $3453 from Metals Depot, delivered. Surely that would be enough metal to do the chassis.

I'm figuring the bigger stuff for the main rail and sub frame for the suspension, the 1.75" for the majority of the cage, and the 1.5" (or 1.25") for the tubing where smaller would be better (like reinforcements that serve as grab rails).

 

[Jonseredbred]

How are you going to set up a jig? You are gonna need some hefty I beam to clamp and anchor the chassis to. Keep in mind you only want to tack the chassis together, dont finish the welds until you have it all together.

 

[lumberjack]

Most fabs I've seen are jigless aside from a cart to help move the works around and give a jig of sorts to get the bottom tube in place to build off of.

Otherwise, the only jigs I've seen are used to hold a piece in place to be tacked, but otherwise a 3 deminsional jig I haven't seen, unless I'm not tracking whatcher talking about.

10-4 on the tacking before the burning. It'll be at least 6 months before I'm to the chassis building phase. I want to get all the major driveline pieces (engine through t case, axles, and tires) so I can build the chassis around them. Rocks pinions are super high, so the chassis will need to be designed to make room for the axles to stuff as tight as possible.

I'm not sure on the route I'm going to go on the suspension, but I'd like the ability to have forced articulation as well as the ability to lift a tire (assuming the COG will allow). Basically have the ability to pull the tires up, or push them down on all 4 corners. That way I can have a super flexy rig when I need it without the disadvantages when I don't.


Looking at the concrete divider on the bypass yesterday, I'd like to be able to cross it using the suspension to raise the belly of the rig.

Anywho, still trying to plan everything out. Cheaper to think before act, or so I've heard.

 

[Jonseredbred]

The only reason you need a jig or heavy iron to hold down the chassis is something to clamp to and keep the build level and square. A cart won't keep it level and square , all that pipe fab will get away from you and it will get twisted up no matter how careful you are.

 

[Frans]

Guy that works for me is up at/in the Rubicon right now. He built up a Blaze cage. Then he had to buy a truck and trailer to haul it. Thing about him is that he is not happy unless something breaks

 

[lumberjack]

Ah, in that instance regard I plan on using the cart to hold the bottom true using screws for leveling in both directions. Use a couple of digital angle finders to reference the angles and I should be able to keep things straight eh?

 

[RIVERRAT]

Ah, in that instance regard I plan on using the cart to hold the bottom true using screws for leveling in both directions. Use a couple of digital angle finders to reference the angles and I should be able to keep things straight eh?

The topic brought up here is the same as one argued among aluminum river boat builders.
Your heat,tacking & the sequence with which you weld controls the twisting & out of true crap that can happen.
A solid jig comes into play big time for mass production. The home builder can build very acceptable projects with out one.

Just dont spend a lot of time welding on one side. Make your frame is tacked properly. Big areas in most cases get fully welded first etc.

 

[Frans]

Up in Fort Bragg where Gerry lives, they have a yard where they build these all alum. boats. Sure look nice

 

[lumberjack]

What do we think of a new Millermatic 185 w/ Spoolmate185, tank (filled), and 20lbs of wire (.023 and .035) for $850?

It looks like the spool gun is about $500 by itself eh? Looks like a 40% duty cycle at 185 amps, 60% at 150, and it shows 35% at 195 amps, although it's only rated to 185. Not quite enough balls to spray mild steel.

 

[sawinredneck]

They are a VERY nice welder. Welds 3/16" and 1/4" single pass easily. It would be great for youre tube chassis!
For all of that Carl, I'd think you a fool for not jumping on it!!!
The smaller unit I was looking at, the 110v 135, was $535 (I think?) new.

 

[lumberjack]

I was looking at the 252, but for the $1420 difference I can live with 105 less amps (1/2" single pass) and get a Spectrum 375 plasma, and have enough money left to buy half a drill press or money towards a TIG.

I was thinking I won't be welding aluminum. I might try getting $400-450 out of the new spool gun. I could certainly deal with a $450 Miller 185amp MIGger. It's just shy of the Miller 212 that's in current production.

According to the manual the limit is 3/8" on a single pass. Although it's rated to 185, it goes to 195 and still sports a better duty cycle than my Thunderbolt packing 45 more amps. I rarely go over 1/4", but I'm pretty handy at developing welds.

I'm taking it. I'll pick it up next time I go to ATL.

 

[Jonseredbred]

I have a new 252, how much did you get quoted for a new one???

 

[cybergeek23851]

I was looking at the 252, but for the $1420 difference I can live with 105 less amps (1/2" single pass) and get a Spectrum 375 plasma, and have enough money left to buy half a drill press or money towards a TIG.

I was thinking I won't be welding aluminum. I might try getting $400-450 out of the new spool gun. I could certainly deal with a $450 Miller 185amp MIGger. It's just shy of the Miller 212 that's in current production.

Carl... never say never. I never thought I'd need to do aluminum, but now I'm getting into it, and need to get set up with a tig eventually to do so(thin work... not plate).

As for the plasma, there are better options. Millers are ok, but are over rated as to how well they perform. I'd still recommend looking some more. This isn't just talk, it's what I've seen in demo'ing units for the college here in town. I'd still look towards Hypertherm and Thermal Dynamics.

 

[lumberjack]

$2k Andrew.

Jason, I seriously doubt I'll have a $400 need to weld aluminum in the next couple years or however long it takes me to get a TIGer. If I wind up in a bind, it's good to be friends with the guys that run the well equiped welding shop at the junior college.

The plasma was a for-instance, I'll prod your knowledge of the plasma bridge when I get there.

The welder is to help in general but mainly to help with the welding of the tube chassis, at least at this point. Not going to be much aluminum in the buggy, maybe the dash/transmission tunnel. The floor, sides, roof and windshield frame will be steel.

 

[lumberjack]

Back home with the welder, even popped in on Gary on the way over and stopped back by on the way in.

700 miles after lunch, time for a nap!

Got the 465/203 adapter in the mail today. Box was beat by the time it got here.