Ms 361... Worth clutch drum and bearing shaft??

SouthSoundTree-

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My well used 361 had the oil pump lever /"spring" break. I replaced it. It broke again. I wonder if slop from wear and tear is the issue. The clutch drum has a good amount of play, with a new clutch drum bearing.

Probably the years of work on the drum, but not visibly worn. Will the inside of the clutch drum and outside of the bearing spindle wear enough to cause a problem?

I haven't had a new saw in a while. I don't know what is a reasonable amount of play, and how much is excess.

Thoughts??


Also, I just put the clutch back in my 361. My 460 broke a clutch spring. I wanted to try to swap clutches, but both were so tight that I broke the piston stop more than once. I tried rope in the cylinder to jam it, but it didn't budge. Righty- loosey, lefty- tighty.
 
Problem with piston stoppers is the damage the can do on piston.
I seen several broken pistons due to piston stoppers and often wrong stoppers.

When pressure is applied wrong, piston push to side and damage is a fact.
Even correctly done there is oftan damages in top of piston.
 
Air tools seem to be the trick to getting them off. More than that I'm learning still.

Air tools and other methods need a sensible mind and experience.
It isn't all machines you can do it on without preparations as it can also create damages.

I do it, it is better and safer for me, but I know what I need to do to make it so...
 
How do you remove the clutch, Magnus?

I usually knock them off.
I have a good metal rod shaped so it works, a tiny hammer and a couple taps and they spin off.
Sometimes the clutch is made in a way it is hard to knock it then I make tools to knock on or use impact.
If so I always look it over first so other stuff won't break.
 
My favorite rod went missing about a year ago it was a hardened stainless steel rod that in its former life was used to push a valve in a hydraulic maneuvering system. This was just hard enough to not vibrate or split or act up.
It just let the forces go straight thru so it was not much needed to make clutch vibrate and spin of.
 
Heck ya worth fixing. Cheap easy one at that. Geter done. :thumbup:
 
So no piston stop, just an air wrench?

It is not alway's that simple, but yes, no stuff put in engine that can create issues..
If you have a layer of carbon build up and you stick something to it and apply pressure it will not turn in to diamants and make you a fortune. It will at very best cenario crack and find its way in to muffler...
 
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  • #15
How do you "knock it off" and keep the piston from moving?


Cut4Fun worth fixing yes. I was trying to title it "WORN CLUTCH DRUM AND BEARING SHAFT??". You can't edit titles, as a user.

I wonder if I have too much wear causing too much wobble.
 
You could do better stuffing the cylinder full of starter rope than a hard piston stop .

Reason being it spreads the impact,torgue whatever over a wider portion of the piston .A hard stop like metal can damage the piston face as Magnus has shown .

Now believe or not with an air impact wrench if you first remove the rewind starter it will often knock it loose with no piston stop,rope or other wise.
 
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  • #17
Thanks.

I have tried rope in the spark plug hole. Try, try again. Previously, I had a trouble with it getting into the exhaust outlet. What's the way around that?

The piston stop is plastic, made by Stihl.
 
How do you "knock it off" and keep the piston from moving?

No rope, no need to prevent engine from turning if you knock it.
If you run impacts or simular and you don't have a good enough mashine that can nock it of before engine turns it is good to think what can happen and prevent it.

I borrow a buddy's pic and show. I use flat irons..

150811_6.jpg
 
When engine spin from impact / drills etc.. the dogs go out and starter sound something like: scrowditktakrach. Then it will need reoplacing.
When you knock it it turns half a turn.
 
It is same problem with all mashines, no matter if they are electric, pneumatic or hydraulic.

They can still spin engine. This is not good!
 
I do the same as Magnus, with a hammer & cold chisel. It works well on all saws & I will only use an impact driver or piston stop if that fails
 
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