Midstem removable ultra sling idea?

If you haven't already made your ultra with the triple, I have an idea that should work. So you make the ultra with nothing attached to it. And then you make your triple, like the x ring in the link below, except you make the loop coming off the triple very small. Only big enough to get a soft shackle through it and the soft shackle is all you need to connect the two. Actually you could use a regular shackle too, just something to connect the two. So all you have to do is take the shackle out of the ultra and triple and then you will be able to move the ultra and triple and then put them back together in less than a minute.

One crazy thing I just found out is that boaters use xrings they are called low friction rings in that world and you can find them in all types of sizes. Try googling low friction ring


 
That was the advice of Tree09 :
You could splice a grommet for it or similar and then attach it to the ultra sling. You could have a small hook/shackle/other attachment method on the ultra sling, and then just clip the loop holding the thimble thing. There's even ways to do it all with single braid, using soft shackle knots and splices.
 
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  • #53
All great ideas. My only thought about splicing a small hole is that the “cinching” effect could be lost depending on stem size/pocket size of the ultra. Unless I’m just not creative enough to picture these ideas well enough 🤪😅

on the topic of solo rigging, when the limb hits the ground how do you get your rope back up for the next rig?
 
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  • #55
I love the double whip tackle idea. Can use slings and carabiners to clip the piece to the rigging line. Send the piece and just until it off of the stem to pull your rope of of the sling that’s on the ground. Sounds like another selling feature to a speed line kit
 
I don't have much to any experience with all the types of slings. My current favorite and what I'm going to stick with for canopy slings because it's what i like and they are easy to make and the ability to adjust them how I like them to fit around the branch is great. What I'm talking about is shorter whoopies big enought to fit around the diameter of the limbs in the upper canopy. I have made a few in different lenghts. I use the tuck splice on the non adjustable end to keep the eyes splice short so I don't have a bunch of non productive space being used in the rope. I have found that I like to use 1/2 and 3/4 inch shackles usually to attach to the whoopie and let the rope run through it, just like an x ring but removable and cheaper. I will also attach pulleys when I don't want to much friction when the line gets redirected a few times. When using this setup I have to get down each time with the limb but I use it when there are high value targets.

So I have been messing around with speedlines, where I tie the ground end of the rope solid and the tree end of the rope i move around in the area I'm working. I will tie the tree side of the rope close enough to the area I'm working that I can attach the slings and then once it's not useful anymore I move it to where im prunning next. And the same goes for the ground side of the rope dending on the ttee and the area around the tree i have gotten away with only moving the ground side 2 times or as many as 6 times with bigger more complex trees . It's alot faster than getting out of the tree every time.

I was wondering how a tag line tied to a running bowling to the butt would work once the piece made it to destination, to losen the knot enough and to yank the line free. I will let you know if it works how I want it to.

Do you have any tips or tricks for solo rigging?
 
With reading seans last post I like the idea of rigging multiple branches at a time to the same rope . Just got to be mindful of weight pulling on the branches as you cut them.
 
I love the double whip tackle idea. Can use slings and carabiners to clip the piece to the rigging line. Send the piece and just until it off of the stem to pull your rope of of the sling that’s on the ground. Sounds like another selling feature to a speed line kit


The speedline kits at primo, for primo dollars.

Beware tree-ware marketing.

I've gotten by without issue, economically with aluminum biners and sewn or tied SL slings for over a decade for most SL work.

Ring slings and heavier duty gear for heavier work.

I have 20 or slings.

Solo speed lining is a useful and productive technique. Anchor the bottom of the rope.

I use naturally available friction up top.


A solo climber can terminate one long rope at both ends and SL from the middle to two locations.

You can bring 2 short ropes.


You can DWT on one end of the rope, SL on the other.
 
My only thought about splicing a small hole is that the “cinching” effect could be lost depending on stem size/pocket size of the ultra.
In this schema, the small hole is here only to take the shackle, not to play in the “cinching” effect by any mean. The ultrasling side does work as in the book, by sliding the end in the best pocket. See that as a removable splice (with the ring or the triple) at the working end of the ultrasling. The shackle, biner or else, is just a link to attach the ring part to the pocket part.

With reading seans last post I like the idea of rigging multiple branches at a time to the same rope . Just got to be mindful of weight pulling on the branches as you cut them.
Yes, all the weight of the first limbs pulls hard on the last one. If you can choose, finish each group by the strongest limb. Be aware that the release at the last cut can be like explosive and that the rope can move quicker and harder than you expect from the size of the limb that you're actually cuting. Same concern with the limbs tied along the rigging line or in a bunch by many slings at the end.
 
I was wondering how a tag line tied to a running bowling to the butt would work once the piece made it to destination, to losen the knot enough and to yank the line free. I will let you know if it works how I want it to.
I was tempted to try that, but I'd worry about snagging the tagline during the release or the descent. Chances are you will loose the limb. Plus I find there are enougth ropes like that to not add an other one to tangle in the crown and on the ground.
 
To add onto Marc-Antoine's post, I prefer to ease the load onto the line when I hang many limbs onto one limb then release the entire load onto the rigging line. I find it's preferable when you have so little rope in the system when using aerial friction, which is my typical approach (natural crotch, BMS Belay Spool, Rig'n'Wrench, POW, etc).
 
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