Hey all, i just purchased a triple thimble and will be splicing an ultrasling on it. The only thing I don’t like about this system (used it before) is that you have to take it all apart every time you go to move it. My idea was to get a slic pin 5/8 shackle (Wesspur has one by cmi) and use that to wrap around both legs of line near the anchor then pass it through the nearest pocket to get that same girth hitch action. Besides for the smaller bend radius of a shackle over 5/8 rope. Just wanted to share the idea and gain y’all’s input
Midstem removable ultra sling idea?
- Thread starter TINYHULK
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BeerGeek
Tree Numbnutz
Matt, are you trying to come up with a way to make it easier to use/move the TT on the ultra-sling as your rigging point in a negative blocking scenario coming down a stem? (Along Scott's questioning).
Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
That, or changing your rigging point toward an other crotch, leader or tree. It could be valuable in a big deciduous tree or with many trees in a row.
Thinking on it, I still find the mechanical principle of the ultrasling a bit weird, but why not. What you can do is inverting the way it works : Instead of passing the TT through a pocket to get a choke around the stem, you could turn the tail of the ultrasling around the TT's splice (like you do for an usual one eye sling) and then, pass the tail in one of its own pocket to make an eye. Secure the tail at the pocket's exit with a shackle or just a biner (reduced load here).
This way, you can even get a fully adjustable capability from this step by step sling. Maybe. At least, half of the pocket's pitch.
Clear ? or
Thinking on it, I still find the mechanical principle of the ultrasling a bit weird, but why not. What you can do is inverting the way it works : Instead of passing the TT through a pocket to get a choke around the stem, you could turn the tail of the ultrasling around the TT's splice (like you do for an usual one eye sling) and then, pass the tail in one of its own pocket to make an eye. Secure the tail at the pocket's exit with a shackle or just a biner (reduced load here).
This way, you can even get a fully adjustable capability from this step by step sling. Maybe. At least, half of the pocket's pitch.
Clear ? or
ruel
TreeHouser
We managed to deform one of those cmi shackles, on an outrageous mechanical advantage setup. They are a cool piece of kit but not bulletproof.
ruel
TreeHouser
Also, sounds like a great place for a dead eye or single sling. Cow hitch is faster than messing about with an ultra. Right tool right job kinda thing
You could splice a grommet for it or similar and then attach it to the ultra sling. You could have a small hook/shackle/other attachment method on the ultra sling, and then just clip the loop holding the thimble thing. There's even ways to do it all with single braid, using soft shackle knots and splices.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #8
Lxskllr, that is exactly where my mind was going.
beergeek and Marc-Antoine, yes to both of you
Ruel thank you for the review about the shackle. I liked the idea of that one cause it would be easier than screwing one open and close every time I move it
Derrick, your creativity makes it hard to understand your ideas. I did think about the soft shackle. Never seen anyone use them in tree work so I didn’t know how strong/safe they were for our work
beergeek and Marc-Antoine, yes to both of you
Ruel thank you for the review about the shackle. I liked the idea of that one cause it would be easier than screwing one open and close every time I move it
Derrick, your creativity makes it hard to understand your ideas. I did think about the soft shackle. Never seen anyone use them in tree work so I didn’t know how strong/safe they were for our work
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #9
Most of my work the rigging point gets moved ALOT. Even if I was just spurring up some pine trees, both flip line and climbing line being flipped (in a girth configuration Ofcourse). I wouldn’t have to set anchor point, thread rope through it tie it on to stem(s) drop stems. Wait on rope to return to me, take it all apart and ascend to the next cluster to put it all back together. Keeping it connected and using a shackle or other device will allow me to move the entire rigging system with rope already installed and just have to attach the shackle(or other device) to cinch it on and drop some more limbs. Seems to delete a lot of little steps in my eyes.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Ultras lock the climber in position until the rope is free.
A dead-eye is fast and easy.
A dead-eye is fast and easy.
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #12
Had to go back and read Marc’s post when I was awake but that is a really smart idea. Ordered the TT and waiting on Wesspur to restock 5/8tenex tec so I can order 100ft of it and make the ultrasling. Was thinking about using 1/2in tec. Most of my rigging is done in that size category.
ruel
TreeHouser
I want to add that the cmi shackle is really good, no shade.
How does that compare to the IronWizard in use? The biner looks like it would be easier to use, and has a higher capacity, but perhaps harder to keep in an advantageous orientation.
edit:
NVM. The above is incorrect. The shackle was listed as wl, and the biner at mbs. The shackle is much stronger assuming 5:1 safety factor.
edit:
NVM. The above is incorrect. The shackle was listed as wl, and the biner at mbs. The shackle is much stronger assuming 5:1 safety factor.
Last edited:
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #15
Treesmith I have used it. My old boss had a rope logic one spliced with a 5/8 ultra sling. Didn’t get to use it as much as I wanted but began to appreciate its advantages in our low growing obstacle filled trees
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #16
Creating friction at the anchor point will lower the amount of force at the anchor point so that is helpful depending on the tree. I’ve dropped up to 400-500lb pieces with a rope going through all three eyes and normally a rigged piece around here never gets any heavier. I also like being able to have the rope man standing away from the tree so that the rope is less of an obstacle on the cut or dropped piece, helps in some small back yards. Last benefit that helps me a lot is when trees are growing so close to a fence/shed you can’t even tie a portawrap on it. Sure there is always more than one way to skin a cat and using a triple thimble for aerial friction helps me a lot. Plus if I wanted to do a quick self rig while the ground crew was busy or if there is a new ground guy, I can modify the amount of friction in the canopy (not common but has happened)
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #19
I need to gain some knowledge/technique on self rigging. Don’t have to do it all the time since I work for a company that normally has 2-4 guys on the ground while I’m climbing. When it’s only two guys and I’m getting in the thick of the tree where I can drop a bunch at once. There’s been more than once that while they are dragging and chipping a few limbs I could have been dropping a few more but had to wait on them. Not trying to over load the ground guys but if there’s only one or two limbs between me and my next long climb to a set of limbs, it would help keep the job running smooth. What ropes do you like for natural rigging?
murphy4trees
TreeHouser
True Blue.. only comes in half inch and that's plenty for most work here.. If not, when it's only one or two pieces I sometimes will just add a second true blue line to the rigging system, rather than go with a bull line.
I overload the heck out of true blue and only ever broke it once... amazing durability, plenty of stretch to absorb energy and keep shock loads down... absolutely the best line for NC
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #23
Very nice, my first day with the new company they had me in a huge oak tree and the rigging line they sent up was the most glazed and hard true blue line I’ve ever seen. Was almost scared to rig with it, dropped some 800lb pieces of oak with it and it held up. We have a different rope now that I have us use for rigging. Boss likes me to use rigging anchors to refrain from burning up the rope. I always have a company block or ring on an ultrasling with me so it’s pretty simple, need to find a better gear bag to keep on my harness. Been looking at the one from weaver with the stretch top. Reminds me of a magazine dump pouch
www.treestuff.com
Weaver Ditty Bag
This ditty bag from Weaver features three snaps on the back for attachment to almost any saddle. The elastic top provides easy access to tools and other small items like carabiners.
www.treestuff.com
SeanKroll
Treehouser
What do you want to put in your gear bag?
SeanKroll
Treehouser
What kind of force were you generating with 800 pound pieces?
Rope is cheap if you're producing. Sensible to replace it before its concerning.
Be careful. Be ready to ask for proper gear.
Sounds sketchy.
What would protected your soft bag of flesh from a recoiling whip of a breaking rope?
How would the rope react after hitting whatever it hit upon recoiling?
There are no shortage of people willing to put profit over employees' safety.
Rope is cheap if you're producing. Sensible to replace it before its concerning.
Be careful. Be ready to ask for proper gear.
Sounds sketchy.
What would protected your soft bag of flesh from a recoiling whip of a breaking rope?
How would the rope react after hitting whatever it hit upon recoiling?
There are no shortage of people willing to put profit over employees' safety.
