Magic Cut for vertical spars, etc

[SouthSoundTree]

Originally brought to my attention by
Gord's TB post, years ago.
Deep horizontal

Sloping cut, conventional or Humboldt--- forms the full bypass at traditional hinge area

Low back cut/ snap cut

All three cuts ( I was sloppy... Not a clean, 2 plane intersection). Normally, green wood releases. This is a dry, log, small enough you wouldn't think twice about a snap cut and push, or cut through and push single handedly.

Slight tap and it's off.

Out the door in a few minutes. Hope this clarifies from the discussion in the cool Euc WR thread.https://www.masterblasterhome.com/showthread.php?18117-euc-removal-with-wrench&p=669285#post669285 God bless consistent friction! SRT!

 

[MasterBlaster]

So, it's just undermining the center of gravity (COA), like Jerry showed in his first book? Am I missing something?

 

[biggun]

Thanks. It was all in the terminology. That is pretty much how I do it. Front horizontal add a snip or face and then back it under to form the step and push.

 

[MasterBlaster]

The best part to me is making the backcut lower than the frontcut... you'll never get your saw snatched!

 

[Tucker943]

That's a saw snatcher there.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Why do you say that? Ever since I first saw that method, I've always successfully used it when blocking down a spar. It's physically impossible to get a grip - what's gonna hold it?

 

[treesmith]

I had a saw ride a cut to the ground about 27 years ago when trying to "jump cut" a gum chunk. It was about 12" in diameter, and Asplundh's method was undercut it 1/3 to 1/2 and them make the top cut 2" beyond the undercut. When it went, it took the saw with it. There was nothing I could do. I later learned that making the top (or secondary cut) behind (or below) solves the problem cleanly. The biggest remaining problem is not nipping the corners.

 

[Tucker943]

If a piece goes over while your bar is coming on lower them the apex of the notch, you run a good risk of saw snatch. I've parted ways with a saw or two.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Take another look... it's impossible.

 

[mistahbenn]

My method for rigging big wood is similar to this.... make a 80%undercut, then make a face of say 50%, (undermining the centre of gravity) then make the backcut slightly below the under cut, and push the piece off, no hinge! works nicely, I have a vid somewhere...

 

[SouthSoundTree]

What is all this pushing the piece off stuff? It falls on its own unless its not heavy enough to snap the wood in the bypass cut. That's part of the Magic. If you're reaching from one tree to another spar, you don't have to be accurate, you're trying to cut all the hinge fibers.

Butch, I haven't seen the section in FOGT, regarding a hinge-less, self dropping cut. I see the part about sawing lean into it, and that he says that the wood will often hold steady until a very thin hinge is present.

With this, you can cut through the hinge fibers as fast as you want, ensuring the whole piece is set in motion, rather than holding one side if the thin hinge gets cut on one side.

Again, nothing new, and not my creation, but as I commented on the Euc removal thread, it seems like too much work to bend hinges, pound wedges, gut faces, set ropes, involve the groundies on a vertical spar.

If the trunk leans 30 degrees, you wouldn't set a pull line. 3 cuts with the saw you have in the tree, piece comes down.

 

[Tucker943]

I have to try this cut to understand the mechanics of it. I can't make sense from the picture. I need to see it in motion and recast my vote.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Go for it!

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Chris, any spar that you're chunking down will work. Its unnecessary if a piece has lean and can be snap cut in a more conventional 2 kerf method. Nothing more that a snap cut with a pie/ notch removed, really. It locks your saw in place actually.

 

[Bodean]

Thanks for explaining this Sean, I heard it years ago and just never got the picture/idea til now.

 

[Mick!]

Ok I'll give it a go as well. Thanks for illustrating it.

 

[Marc-Antoine]

If the log is relatively short for its diameter, the bypass cut could be tricky to snap, with gnarly fibers for example. I put my back cut level with the front one or under it by a hair to be sure. No need to push, the log rolls over by its own. And no risk to loose your saw because the crack doesn't have to find its path throw the fibers, eventually taking out a chunk of wood under the bar. Lastly, the log doesn't sit back on the bar because with the COG undermined, the tendency is to open the back cut when the log begins to move.

 

[kevin bingham]

Thanks!

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Just sharing what's been shared with me. Thanks to Gord, and his teacher.

 

[pantheraba]

Good explanation Mistabehn...good thread, Sean...I'll use this cut.

 

[mistahbenn]

If you can view this.... https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10152263064666815&set=vb.680911814&type=3&theater

 

[pantheraba]

Yep, good example of why you have to pull sometimes. Thanks.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Why didn't you drop it on the tires?

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Why a remote position for the climber? Not knowing what was underneath, but seeing it looking beat, I guess there was no way to dump on to brush/ tires? Vertical speedline with Magic cut wouldn' have worked?

 

[MasterBlaster]

I think that was a bucket truck job.