Letter box
- Thread starter Burnham
- Start date
- Replies 79
- Views 11K
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
We get into some situations where given the reach, it's dicey whether the crane is beyond the maximum limit of its ability to pick up the weight of the tree. Using that cut, the butt can slide off and immediately hit the ground, and then the log can get slightly lifted to see how the crane responds. The weight is OK, the log gets lifted, if not, it gets bounced close enough in to where it can get picked up. Boring out the middle allows for better alignment when making the back cut through to the center of the face. No hinge, just a clean smooth break away and slide off is desired. The log twisting can be a problem with this cut for that purpose, pinching the bar. Care for an even back cut, so one corner doesn't break faster than the other, and a wedge can help
gf beranek
Old Schooler
More powder! The perfect solution.
Bodean
Cali dreamer
Hey Eric,
Thanks I learned something tonight.
"wedge can pass through without bottoming out in the back cut."
Makes sense.
Thanks I learned something tonight.
"wedge can pass through without bottoming out in the back cut."
Makes sense.
N
NeTree
Guest
No sweat, Deva.
I've always called it "keyholing" or face boring removing the hinge through the front for the same reasons you guys have mentioned. Pretty much do it out of habit on any larger tree's even if i could cut it with one guide bar length just to avoid pulling out of the centre's but then just usually off the bottom face rather than at felling height. Letterboxing to me is if I have a tree hung up and take out the centre of the tree from the back allowing to roll the tree to the left or right with a felling lever or winch without having to put the bar too far into the tree to reduce the hinge. You can then pencil off the remaining hinge from either side depending on which direction you want to roll it or even pull the tree back off the stump by breaking the two remaining hinges.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
For when breaking a tree off it's stump....that's a good method to know.
Cool post!
Cool post!
TheTreeWiseMen
Redneck Limey
Im with HuskyD, I've always known it as a 'keyhole' cut.
You can also "swing" the tree with that cut. Once it starts in motion, cutting off the hinge on one side or the other gets some pretty interetesting sideways movement going.
Do you guys ever put a stub of wood in one side of the face cut to help the swing?
N
NeTree
Guest
A dutchie? Sure.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
It never seems to work all that well.
It works well for making a tree roll off another tree, when falling in close quarters in the forest.
Timed correctly it'll make the hinge break in the side you want the tree to roll away from just as it hits the standing tree.
You can squeeze a large hardwood into a very tight space that way.
Hope I explained that in a way, to make it understandable.
Sometimes my english fails me a bit.
Timed correctly it'll make the hinge break in the side you want the tree to roll away from just as it hits the standing tree.
You can squeeze a large hardwood into a very tight space that way.
Hope I explained that in a way, to make it understandable.
Sometimes my english fails me a bit.
jamie
Wud Kutta
Ed L
Treehouser
Bodean
Cali dreamer
That's what made me realize how smart that was.
I've stood there with a loser look on my face.
Usually just cut the inside of the face from the front, which could be sketchy.
I've stood there with a loser look on my face.
Usually just cut the inside of the face from the front, which could be sketchy.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
That is a great tip about the advantage for wedges, especially on small trees. Bet that you could nip from the sides and the wedge force would eventually bust the hinge. Could get a swinger where you don't want though.
N
NeTree
Guest
I've never had a problem doing it. 'Course, I know the time and place for it, too. 
sotc
Dormant hero!!
And you can set your wedge after boring, drive it in snug and then cut the sides a half inch above the wedge up to your hinge without worry of setting back
wiley_p
Climbing Up
Now that for sure is a West coast trick.
G
Gord
Guest
On smaller trees I'll bore the backcut, leaving a strap and pound the wedge sideways. Or cut the backcut first, wedge, then place the undercut. The only time I bore out the center of the hinge is on a fat stub and then only very rarely.
I've tried the keyhole with a wedge once or twice, seems kinda useless.
I quarter-cut most stuff unless I've got plenty of bar length.
I've tried the keyhole with a wedge once or twice, seems kinda useless.
I quarter-cut most stuff unless I've got plenty of bar length.
gf beranek
Old Schooler
I was wedging a small limb locked pine once, using splitting wedges of all things. It's all I had at the time. That tree was bowed enough to snap the top out of it and still wasn't coming loose. Chopping off the back to drive the wedges deeper,, I looked in the face and they were coming through the hinge. You sure can't do that with a plastic wedge.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Jerry, ever know anyone to have been bitten by a piece of mushroomed over steel wedge head shooting back? I have 3/4" scar on the inside of my forearm. All I saw was a red streak shooting back, I mean it was red hot. I'll never use a mushroomed over wedge.
