Husky 2100

  • Thread starter bergsteiger
  • Start date
  • Replies 64
  • Views 11K


Ok so I went to a contractor's moving sale this morning and found an old 2100 that he gave me for $5. I put fresh gas in it but didn't start (not that I expected it to from the way it looked). I'm not much of a saw mechanic but I'd like to try and resurrect this thing. It feels like it has good compression- wants to yank your arm off- but it looks like it hasn't been used in 10 years. I would assume I need to go through the carb and fuel lines and such first. I'd appreciate any input about how to go about this and also if anyone knows where to get parts. Thanks.


  • 2100 1 (1).JPG
    2100 1 (1).JPG
    882.3 KB · Views: 20
  • 2100 1 (4).JPG
    2100 1 (4).JPG
    893.8 KB · Views: 18
  • 2100 1 (9).JPG
    2100 1 (9).JPG
    906 KB · Views: 17
  • 2100 1 (10).JPG
    2100 1 (10).JPG
    874 KB · Views: 17
  • 2100 1 (11).JPG
    2100 1 (11).JPG
    883.5 KB · Views: 18
Looks rough. I'll give ya $50 plus shipping for it. :D

Seriously, I'd have to break it down and clean it up real good just to see what was there. Then diagnose problems, look for broken stuff, etc. PM me if you're interested in passing it along.
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #3
Yeah I plan to spray it with air and see how much I can clean off. $50? nah this saw was made to run in the big northwest softwoods. :D
Wow... that thing looks beat...

I know there are diamonds in the rough... but that saw looks like it has been trashed.

Not tryin' to rain on your parade... but it's gonna take some work just to get it cleaned up to see if it's even salvageable.

Pull the muffler off and look at the condition of the piston and cylinder through the exhaust port.

That will tell ya righ there if you have a good find... or a basket case.

It also looks like whoever was usin' it... was runnin' used crankcase oil for bar oil. Yuck...

Like Gary said, pull off the muffler and have a looksie. Dissasmble it all and WASH IT!!!
Lots of parts to start with, just depends on whats good. Most parts should be available from you're Husky dealer.
We should be able to talk you through about any of it.
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #7
Ok I'll try and get some pictures of the piston and cylinder as I don't really know what it should look like. I've been trying to clean off as much as possible but I think they did use old motor oil in it.
Looks good to me man! I've started off worse.

Throw a little fuel down the carb after you clean up the area around it and see if she purrs.

Ok I'll try and get some pictures of the piston and cylinder as I don't really know what it should look like. I've been trying to clean off as much as possible but I think they did use old motor oil in it.

You'll know... trust me... any deep scratches or gouges through the piston rings will be a tell tale sign.

Worst part about people usin' old crankcase oil is that is stains the plasic and paint on the saws... :|:

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
Well I got a new spark plug and cranked on it with the plug out of the cylinder and didn't see a spark so I would assume the ignition is shot. It looks like fuel is getting to the cylinder though.
Here is a picture of the cylinder and two of the piston. Best I could manage with my camera. The piston looks like it has some burn marks on it or something. The last one is the local deer in the yard after I got home from the store this morning.


  • Deer.JPG
    904.1 KB · Views: 16
  • 2100 piston 2.JPG
    2100 piston 2.JPG
    896.1 KB · Views: 17
  • 2100 piston.JPG
    2100 piston.JPG
    893.1 KB · Views: 15
  • 2100 cylinder.JPG
    2100 cylinder.JPG
    887.9 KB · Views: 17
The cylinder looks good. It definitely has some carbon buildup, but nothing too bad.

I would try to get some of that gunk off the cooling fins, rebuild/replace(if needed) the carb, replace the fuel and impulse lines(if needed), new fuel filter, figure out the spark issue. May just be a gap issue!, check the oil tank and oil line for proper flow, clean out behind the brake band........I am sure that is it FULL of gunk!, check the sprocket and sprocket bearings.

After all that the saw should be like brand new.

It may not need all of this, some if it is complete overkill. BUT it will be a great worry free saw if all is done.

The 2100 is a great powerul saw that is desred by hotsaw racers.

Good luck!
Was the 2100 electronic ignition or points? I've heard that there is a module you can buy to put electronic ignition on motors that had points originally.

I ran a 2101 and a 3120 when I worked at Davey, much preferred the 2101.
When checking for spark with the plug out of the saw... Make sure you are grounding the plug to something like a cooling fin when you are checking for spark, or you won't get any spark at all.

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #16
I used some degreaser and it cleaned up decently and no spark still. What is the "gap issue" that Boston Bull is talking about? There are ignition coils on ebay for this saw for $70-$80. I also need to find an air filter somewhere that fits. The one on it is a K&N :? I don't know if its a car filter or what.
Oh yeah when I pump the oiler I can hear air coming out by the clutch but no oil so I don't know what the deal with that is.
I don't know if this saw originally had a chain brake either because I can't see where it would go.
The "gap issue" means you may have to lightly sand the contacts on the coil and magnets on the flywheel to remove any rust then "gap" the coil to the flwheel. This reffers to the air gap between them. Ussually you can take a piece of paper and fold it three times then place it between the coil and flywheel then tighten the coil. It's easy.
I believe that air filter is from a "max flow" kits, I think they are still available, or a god dealer can get you a factory air filter but you will NEED to buy a new cover for the factory filter to work properly.
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #18
Sorry if this is a stupid question but do I have to take the flywheel off? If I do don't you need a special tool?
You don't need to pull the flywheel off to "sand" the contacts. A special puller is prolly required. Many a saw flywheel has been destroyed by usin' automotive style gear pullers.

One smal piece of advice on tryin' to get this great old saw runnin'... If you are not careful you will have far more money into it than it will ever be worth... :)

Trust me on this one. ;)

Most likely the air gap on the coil to flywheel is around 10 to 12 thou .

Clean the crude off that thing and just get a rebuild kit for the carb because most likely it will need it any way .

Even if you have to pony up 90 bucks for an ignition that is one of the hottest saws ever made and can be modified to be an absolute screamen demon if you choose .

Buuut,before you do anything with the ignition ,make sure all the wiring is intact and nothing is shorted out .Often times this is the problem .
Sorry if this is a stupid question but do I have to take the flywheel off? If I do don't you need a special tool?

The only stupid question is the one that isn't asked.

No, the adjustment is made by using the slot in the coil. Take the two screws out (sometimes three) and you can remove the coil to sand down the pickups, and have access to the flywheel. Then line the pickups with the magnet, put in a feeler gauge, or paper folde over (one sheet of paper is around .005") and let the magnet suck the coil down and tighten the bolts, then remove the paper.
It's easy.
Like Al said, check the wires, and if in doubt, pull the wire from the coil off the on/off switch to make sure it's no a bad switch as well.
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #23
Ok soooo maybe I'm missing something I can't seem to access the coil - which is behind the flywheel right? Here are a couple pictures of what it looks like. There don't seem to be any screws or anything to take the coil off. There are those three recessed holes in the flywheel but it doesn't look like theres screwheads in them.

Also called Madsen's today to try and locate an air filter but they couldn't any that are still available. They might be able to get me a K&N aftermarket though.


  • P6090624 (Large).JPG
    P6090624 (Large).JPG
    135.1 KB · Views: 11
  • P6090625 (Large).JPG
    P6090625 (Large).JPG
    119.6 KB · Views: 11
They are there on all these Older ones.

"CD" is no points and "S" is with points.

So if you get a 280S it should have points, and 280CD should have a CDI Module. Flyeels don't interchange and in some model's crank is diffrent too on CD.