How to use the GRCS

I havent read all of Darins post yet so dont know if he covered it but 1 trick I like to use say when lifting a tree or failed lead off of a house is to set a block in your anchor tree up high, run the rope down to tree on house and though another block there and then back up to anchor tree and tie it off. This will give you twice the lift power. Its also a good idea if it can be done to set the GRCS on a tree opposite the load as far back as is doable so the working line also acts as a guy so you dont end up with 2 on the house......
 
Haha, wow!

I only use a redirect into the GRCS if the line is coming in crazy hard, otherwise nutzing
 
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  • #37
With the DWT, I would be concerned about not having enough line to get it to the ground after it has been cut. But I dont see us setting it real high up in a tree.
 
wenches don't own winches, Good GRCS info by all,

Noww to get in trouble . . . . . when I set it up on a tree that doesn't get cut, I rap a thick piece of carpet around the trunk.

Here goes . . . maybe some foam or a mattress would protect it better?
 
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  • #44
normal?

GRCS1.jpg

Today I had a chance to play around with the bollard attachment on the GRCS and saw this happening. Is it normal? The rope is 9/16 Stable Braid and we were rigging oak tops out. None of the tops were more than 200 to 250 lbs and we were letting them run about 50 to 60ft and then putting the breaks on before they hit the ground another 15ft or so down. So is the fuzz just from letting the rope run for so long? Is this damaging to the rope?
 
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  • #46
I put a block about 2 feet above the GRCS to get it as straigh of a fair lead as I could.... ummmm?????

I assume this is not real good for the rope. but the rope appears to be fine. Should I be concerned and do I need to change what I am doing?
 
I usually don't set the fair-lead block that close (2'), a little further away feels better to me. I pick a spot uptrunk from the grcs/hobbs that is still straight, then I put the second load-bearing block up in the canopy further. I don't have the problem you pictured with my setup.

The further away you have your fair-lead block, the better, as long as it still in a straight line on the trunk. If you have it really close to the lowering device, even a slight miscalculation on your part (as far as being perfectly in-line) will have bigger negative effects.

A small bonus of this technique is you may use that fair-lead block later in the day to rig the top off the spar.

Another big bonus of putting the fair-lead block further away is that your limbs, as they do their swinging after being cut off, won't contact your rigging line, which is snug against the trunk. Huge bonus!

How did the whole "winch-wench" misunderstanding ever begin? I think it started in the south. Say it with a thick enough accent, you can't tell the difference.
 
Actually the kilter of your line after it passes through the fairlead suggests that it is mounted other than level. I doubt it is of much concern to your line, I have had it happen on many occasions and things don't seem any worse for wear
 
I would be more concerned that it is rubbing the nice shiny paint off the GRCS than with the rope.
 
The yellow stuff coming off your rope is the Samthane coating, which is there to improve abrasion resistance. It just shows that it's a pretty new line, that's all. This coating comes off gradually over time no matter how you use it.
 
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