Good climber cant shapen saw

Yah for our softwoods here usually the rakers need a stroke or two right off the bat and Stihl chain isn't bad but still can use a 'tickle' as MB said.
 
I think I am going to invent a 2 sided chain for non sharpening homeowners.
 
Jerry, Yes. I run mostly Carlton.-And you are correct it is usually very good right off the spool. It cuts a smidge better after a couple of touch ups but not enough for me to sharpen it before the first cut.
 
I haven't tried Carlton. Stihl, I run new, Oregon, I sharpen straight away. Way too much sharpening needed with Oregon. It seems that I get at least twice the wood cut with Stihl chain, and longer in between touch ups.

On the discussion of sharpening, it seems a lot of people suffer day in, day out with dull tools. Many people don't know the joy of a properly sharpened chain, woodchisel, hand plane. I can't use dull tools anymore. I try to offer help where I can, but so often the pride thing comes up.
 
Word. It was beat into me as a youngster, never run a dull saw. Time spent sharpening is never lost. Not to mention a dull saw is way more dangerous than a sharp one.
 
Old farmer tale ,a sharp tool will make you money ,a dull one will cost you .

Stihl branded chain has it's claim to fame simply by the fact it is hard as a rock . It's not better chain just good chain that cuts longer between filings .


--and at twice the price it should last twice as long ,of which it does .So it's even Steven .

Now that said ,in no way am I down grading the Stihl chain .I have several loops and it's damned good stuff but pricey .
 
Old farmer tale ,a sharp tool will make you money ,a dull one will cost you .

Stihl branded chain has it's claim to fame simply by the fact it is hard as a rock . It's not better chain just good chain that cuts longer between filings .


--and at twice the price it should last twice as long ,of which it does .So it's even Steven .

Now that said ,in no way am I down grading the Stihl chain .I have several loops and it's damned good stuff but pricey .

So what are you trying to say?
 
and as far as bar oil there is only 2 kinds,sav-a-chain & stihl
 
I haven't even tried that 10-12 gallons of stuff you sent out here yet Tom . It might be okay for all I know but it doesn't have the tack of Stihl oil .

What the hell ,it was free ;) ----besides that I can set the oilers on some of my old gems to blow oil like old "Spindle top " if I so desire .

The Stihls do just enough but they could stand to be improved .I'll delve into that some day .
 
There is one thing about this thread that has mystified me.
Some of you talk about dumping a worn chain and just putting on a new one fresh out of the box.

Does that mean you think a new unsharpened chain cuts well?

When I spin up some loops, they go straight to the grinder, then get a couple or 3 bumps on the depth gauges. "new" chain is dull, imo. I run chisel, and if a guy looks at the factory grind, one will see the corners high, low and sometimes right on.
 
I run chisel, and if a guy looks at the factory grind, one will see the corners high, low and sometimes right on.
Last year or so Oregon let some loose with the side angle not cut quite deep enough on the round chisel .

It wasn't noticable until it was filed about two times then it wouldn't cut worth a hoot unless you reworked it a tad bit . There must have been a lot of it because people were grumbling about it hither and yon . I think I ended up with 4 loops of it myself . I might still have one I haven't used yet ,have to check if it ever warms up again .
 
I still have a half roll of .325 Oregon chain like that, bought it 3 years ago and replaced it with a roll of Stihl 23RS rather than use it up. Crappy chain that won't cut without extensive reworking and won't hold an edge very long.
:what:
 
I used to use a Granberg electric sharpener on a jig when first getting into milling. I think that there are advantages when using a very long bar and wanting to keep the chain angles always consistent. If I was milling regularly now, I might be wanting to use it. I never had a problem with the stone loading up, either the ceramic or diamond type.

You didn't say whether he is using one with an angle jig or not. For regular chain saw use, I don't see much advantage over skilled free hand, by the time you set it up on the bar, you can have it 2/3 done with just a round file. Free hand, and having a proper
stationary chain grinder to use when needed, that's where I get the best results.

The chain saw rental place near me replaces the chain after every return, and gives them to me if I catch them before they get tossed. 3/8 -.058, wish they'd go to .050. I must have about fifty of those, all 68 drive links.

dang--just what i use--olys are all 058----
 
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