Felling Larch
- Thread starter Husky D
- Start date
- Replies 34
- Views 6K
Thor's Hammer
Wolfish. Sometimes Bites.
Gosh, seeing those county's brings a tear to my eye. Looks like 2 1164's, one with a fixed igland, the other with a 3pl winch?
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Ha, don't go posting pictures of big trees and go giving us ulcers 
Cool pics, and a couple of well used saws there, Huskies noted.
Cool pics, and a couple of well used saws there, Huskies noted.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
Nice wood! 
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Wondering why people plant Larch, the little that I've come across seems like such a weak wood. Quick growing?
Burnham
Woods walker
The branch unions are weak, but the timber itself is pretty strong.
Thor's Hammer
Wolfish. Sometimes Bites.
Huh!?
In europe Larch is highly valued for its strength. Its very waterproof and durable. Top quality timber is in great demand for building yachts and other small boats, for exterior cladding of houses and construction. Its resistant to rot when in contact with the ground, and is suitable for use as posts and in fencing. In central Europe larch is viewed as one of the best wood materials for structural house building...
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Thanks for clarifying the good characteristics of the wood. I've only seen Larch sold as cheap 2x4 stock at discount hardware stores, and it is light and weak. It probably is a lower grade, comes from Siberia or something. A lot of cheap imported wood comes out of Russia.
brendonv
Tree Hugger
Cool.
I really wish I knew how to fell with such a small bar.
I really wish I knew how to fell with such a small bar.
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
I don't see the point of it myself, unless it was to practice for giant trees where you'd have to double cut or whatever. Any performance gain from using the shorter bar is going to be far outweighed by the extra screwing around to actually fell with it. I'm not into using a longer bar then the situation calls for but I'm also definetly not into using to short of a bar.
I know it's the european way, and thanks for sharing the pics.
brendonv
Tree Hugger
I'm like a sponge, just trying to soak it all in. 
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
I bet if you started out using a short bar, and that pretty much comprised your experience, you wouldn't think anything about it...'cept that maybe everything is big in the states, and people like to spend money.
N
Newfie
Guest
Ther isn't that much screwing around unless you are using a smaller bar on a much bigger tree. Even then it ain't much of a trick.... Like everything else in felling, just a little practice.
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
Those to me look to be a sixteen and a eighteen inch bar. I'm guessing alot of those trees needed to be double cut and that is slower than having a 24"er on there and just laying 'em down imo.
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
Upon re-looking at the pics those trees look pretty small so maybe the short bar works fine in that situation. And no offense is meant but it all just looks so different to me as that's not quite how we log out here. Those bars would be slow in my woods.
N
Newfie
Guest
They looked smaller to me as well. I agree, if you have to cut 24" all day, then a bigger saw with a bigger bar is the best way to go. But for the odd bigger one here and there....
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
Agreed, I just think espescially on flat ground, a longer bar is going to be alot more comfortable.
Reddog
TreeHouser
Nice pics Husky D.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing.
K
klimbinfool
Guest
I guess it's all about what you were taught or used to. Kinda like putting the slant before the horizontal or the other way around in a face cut.If it works for them, what the heck.
I agree with you though, longer bar would make life easier. I only used a 36" in my avitar pic. Had to gut the hinge a little, but no biggie. No sence in packing around a 6' bar when you dont need to.
Greg
I agree with you though, longer bar would make life easier. I only used a 36" in my avitar pic. Had to gut the hinge a little, but no biggie. No sence in packing around a 6' bar when you dont need to.
Greg
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
T
TREECYCLE
Guest
For me it is the opposite Squisher as the steeper it gets the more reach is important. But on flat ground you can access both sides of the stump so a smaller bar becomes an option
wiley_p
Climbing Up
I don't see the point of it myself, unless it was to practice for giant trees where you'd have to double cut or whatever. Any performance gain from using the shorter bar is going to be far outweighed by the extra screwing around to actually fell with it. I'm not into using a longer bar then the situation calls for but I'm also definetly not into using to short of a bar.
I know it's the european way, and thanks for sharing the pics.
Squish, i have been cutting for over 20 years. I have taught "doubling up" for more than a decade. It is a very needed skill for a journeyman faller, and hopefully I will be in the UK getting schooled on the proper methods in the benefits of a shorter bar, and a very, very, hungry chain.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
Hungry chain is the shitz nit.
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
Treecycle I meantioned a longer bar being more comfortable on flat ground so you don't have to bend over so much. Again I'd say no matter the slope if you're double cutting often it's time to move up in bar length. Imo.
WileyP I'll be interested to hear back on how that goes when you make it over there for some training.
Recently I've been double cutting a bunch of bigger cottonwoods I've taken down. In a residential setting no big deal, for production falling that I've been exposed to if you're double cutting often it's time to move up in bar length.
WileyP I'll be interested to hear back on how that goes when you make it over there for some training.
Recently I've been double cutting a bunch of bigger cottonwoods I've taken down. In a residential setting no big deal, for production falling that I've been exposed to if you're double cutting often it's time to move up in bar length.
